Cooling Water block project

dude i am mightly jealous!
what uni you at?

 

well after using the CAM to cut out the internal channels i used the worlds oldest machine hack saw to trim the block down.

Believe me this machine is about 50 years or so and has been repaired so many times everyone has lost count! lol




i had to counter weight the arm just to add pressure.

 

I am at Nottingham Trent Uni doing Product design BSc iv got a few new projects in my head, all i need is money! lol

 

nice dude, just make sure you use an o ring, because you're have leaks otherwise. i had to use a liquid gasket

 

nice block

Just a quick question on what Uni courses your doing if you could PM me that would be great wanna know what CAD courses there are or product design etc...



Thanks
Morgan.

 

hey cool i know a few people at that uni now and my design teacher/ rowing coach took the course your on (or simlar) at Nottingham trent as well
lol small world
hope you get enough monies to get some ideas out of your head!
Project looks awsome good luck!

 

hey there, im back!

there is an independant CAPD BSc course here, (that stands for Computer aided product design) i originally signed up to do that but its limited really.

Instead i done the product design, exactly the same but more. Currently learning the use of 'AutoCad', '3D studio max' and 'solidworks 2006'. This is a killer course, well worth it.

The computer labs get updated pretty quickly, Currently running pentium D 2.8GHz with Quadro FX1400. Not bad systems!!!

Plus the uni is in the city, so during breaks i can be found in the 'Horn in hand' a local pub! lol

 

here is kettle i done in a spare 15 minutes, in 3DS max 8

 

cool might have to look into it is there anychance of adding me to msn so i can pick your brains on the course


Thanks

 

The center of the block looks bad to me, it's just going to hold the heat since to water is passing though it.

 

well the block has been working for 8 months or so and its fine


out dose my arctic cooler 64 pro, and that was good!

 

hey man im currently doing 2nd year mech engineering, work with solidworks a LOT

i've found the best way to learn with it is do half the tutorials then just model anything that might challenge you.

p.s. - PM me if you can figure out how to loft the profile for a fan blade, i'm struggling to figure out a good method..

EDIT: Jamie makes a good point - obviously it performs well, but it must have a local region of heat soak around the center dividing channel - did you compensate for this or is it negligible?

 

i put a centeral divider in to force the water around more of the block. if it wasn't there the water would flow really fast across the top of the block, thus leaving a huge amount of slow moving water in the bottom of the block.


If i had the time and a very expensive IR thermometer i could find out if the block has any hot spots.

I do believe that it gets warmer in the middle as its above the core, however the surrounding channels are removing the heat very well.

As for the solidworks question, il scatch my head and come back to you on that if i can.

 

Once i trimmed the excess materail off the base, i turned to doing the top plate made from 12mm Acrylic.

the materail is to thick to cut through on the CAM, so i always use an engraving to give me a guide to cut it out.



After filling the edges to a point where wet and dry can then be used on the entire base and top plate. We now have the wet and dry stage.



thats the 400 grit stage, i used 400 to remove the machining marks even tho the surface is to the quality that would have been found on a Danger DEN block.

By the way i used candle wax to keep the internal channels of the base clean and free from particles.

The following stages used were 800, 3200, 6000, 8000 and 12000 grit papers. those papers are true numbers, i got hold of those papers from the a friend in the RAF.



all that is on that base is grease smears and light scatches, impossible to stop them lol!

Another update soon