Yes it does. MVA brings the ups side of PVA and TN panels together. But sadly it brings also both of their downsides. PVA aren't really designed for gaming, so while they can potentially display amazing colors, they have ghosting. So where MVA panels wins big is that you have fantastic blacks (coming from PVA), and you have great speeds, same view angles as a high-end TN panel, even potentially a bit better, and low input lag. Sadly you have more ghosting, price is higher than TN, but not much, you don't have the amazing colors, and all that stuff. So it depends on your needs. I agree, however, a note, you need to have the GPU power to drive 120fps in your games to enjoy 120Hz. If you enjoy games at max settings and native resolution, this can be quiet hard with a single GPU. For many people, 120Hz isn't a must, because when you have a stead solid fps from a game, you don't see (unless compared side by side), any experience problems. A game running at 30fps solid is enjoyable. See all the console gamers. The great majority of games run at 30fps. People don't see any difference when they switch to another game running at 60fps. The reason why they don't see any problem with 30fps, even in first person shooter games, is because VSync is on on all games. So the game can only go at 60 or 30fps. I invite you to read this: http://techreport.com/articles.x/21516/1
True i ran eyefinity for a while and at 5760x1080 most games would run at 30fps and for me this was fine, but the sammy 750d is a nice piece of kit with great colour vibrancy with the option of 3d, can also be had for £300 now
If you guys are still talking about monitors, you can risk it (if you're a gambling type) and buy a 27" Catleap/Yamasaki S-IPS. Just get the DVI version and find an ICC profile. Mind you they're cheap due to not mcuh factory support and a frankly crap stand, but you get basically a U2711 without the extras.. Which can be a dealbreaker. But hey, they're about $300 USD.
Just a note, I am mostly a mac user ( I really like OSX, etc, but it's not all a bed of roses eg I despise the new XCode 4 paned approach... but well you can't win them all...) Anyway for my PC (I need to test on linux and windows, etc.) I bought a Dell U2711 and for the most part I really like it. There is one mildly stuck pixel which is a tiny bit annoying and also the overall monitor has a bluish tint to it. I have tried color calibrating it a gizillion times and I can't shake it. If I get rid of the bluish tint then then it washes out the whites to a yellow. In comparison my iMac 27 screen looks a little better. I am really not sure why since they are meant to be the same panel right? I don't know maybe the backlighting it different. I even tried my Dell on a mac and well it still has the bluish tint so I don't think it's software. Still I really like the build quality of the dell and the menu system is clear and simple... Cheers, Jas
This is obviously not normal. What is expected, is that your Mac display has a blu'ish tint or the same. colors. Just to rule out the basics: 1- I hope you are using AdobeRGB or sRGB color profile on the monitor (Menu > Color Settings > Preset Modes > Adobe RGB (or sRGB, which ever you like the most). 2- In the OS you are using, set the color profile NOT to the monitor profile itself, but rather, on the default sRGB color profile (called: sRGB virtual device model profile, in Windows). By default the OS will detect the monitor and download and load the color profile of the monitor which a color profile calibrated from a different monitor (obviously), and as no monitor is identical (could be using a different backlight manufacture to fill demand, for example), it might explain the blue tint. If the above does not help: I would contact Dell and RMA the monitor. Ok now, what I am about to say, is very particular for the U series of Dell monitor. Avoid the word "Tint" when you speak to Dell. Just say that the image is very blue'ish. Why don't mention the word "tint"? They are 2 reasons for that: -> When the Dell U series monitor came out, man people don't know one of the downside of IPS panels, which is on a full black screen, in dark room, high brightness settings (or even minimum, if your room is pitch black), you see on the 4 corner, some back light bleeding. It has this gray'ish blue tint color as you move. People where RMA'ing the monitor because of this issue. Only to find out that it occurs on all IPS panels, even in the professional market. -> When the U2410 was released LG, the panel manufacture, had problems with their production facility which affected all of their IPS panels. Basically a high amount of IPS panel they produce where faulty. Anyone who got an IPS monitor from any company using an LG panel, could have surprises, such as the actual grid of the LCD being visible and color green. People where referring it as a green or pink tint, depending on which direction you tilted the monitor (never blue). Due to the high return rate, LG blocked any tint related issue from being accepted from return, which made everyone using their panel (Dell, and HP to name a few), have no choice but to say that the tint issue is "normal". The problem was quickly fix form LG side. And then Dell released the U2711 and U3011 monitors. While it applies on the U2410, it might have been a policy that Dell set on the other U monitor models. So, when you call Dell, don't say "tint" as they might think you mean one of the 2 situation above, and you'll get "it's normal". Just say that the image became very blue recently, no mater which computer you plug the monitor into, and no mather which color mode you pick on the monitor.
Just FYI OP, if you do end up getting a Hazero, be very, very, VERY ****ING CAREFUL with it if you are in an area prone to blackouts. Its power supply is insanely fragile to power surges. I had it plugged into a cheap surge protector, and about a month after I got it there was a blackout while I was out of the house and when I came back all the monitor would output was a hash tinted whatever was the predominant color on its input. A shame too, because I loved that panel to death. But the colors were decidedly mediocre. I should have gotten a used Dell instead, as out house is somewhat prone to outages.
@goodbytes. Thanks for the really detailed response. That is really informative. However, I can actually hook the monitor up to a MacPro and the same blueish tinting is occurring. So it's not a software configuration thing. I should describe this as not really that bad just a little, well, lightly tinted towards blue / icy blue. Like doing the calibration and going a little too high in the temperature color point... People can eg watch a movie on it without noticing or complaining. It's just when I have lots of C++ files open and they all have that whitish background tinting to blue, I can notice it... (I should really learn more about the nooks and crannies of Windows and Linux (Ubuntu), but well, I try to concentrate my time in other things, like delivering the product ) In any case I couldn't immediately find "Menu > Settings > Preset Modes > Adobe RGB" In windows 7 I see Control Panel > Appearance and Personalization > Display and from there I can do a calibration... Although to tell you the truth I have mainly fiddled around with the monitor on a MacPro since I know Mac's best in order to see if I could get the output to look like my iMac... (ie was the problem intrinsic to the monitor or to my software configuration...) BTW what is the number of dead pixels allowed before being able to RMA the monitor? (for the U2711) Thanks again for the detailed response! Cheers, Jas
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-P..._Monitors&hash=item20c5bb8ca4#ht_37069wt_1163 For just over £200 you can get a Yamakasi Q270, which use the same LG IPS display as the Apple Cinema Display and the Hazro. Only downside is that it's only got DVI, but apart from that it's an absolute bargain!
Ah right, my mistake, I didn't have a Hazro, I had that model. It's a good panel, but the colors are lackluster and the lack of an OSD is a major problem. Also the aforementioned surge = fry problem I had, make sure it's on a top quality surge protector. Other than those, for about a third as much as a U2711, it's a great deal, of course.
Perhaps that Yamakasi Q270 doesn't have the same panel as the Hazro; I have the Hazro HZ27WC (non glass version) and the colours are outstanding. I echo Phinix with a recommendation for this monitor, depending on what you use it for the extra resolution is a real benefit. I was using a GTX 275 at the time and although it coped with games with lowered settings, I eventually got a 7950 for £200 to run it (plus to run 2 other monitors aswell). The monitor has been fantastic so I haven't tested Hazro's customer service (and hopefully won't); Goodbytes post outlining Dell's customer service is spot on, I have had to send things back for myself and others and they have sometimes been replaced the very next day. That and their pixel policy and you're on to a winner.
When you plug a monitor to a computer, Windows or Mac OS goes: "Hey! It's a new monitor! Maybe this monitor has a color profile that I can use. Let me check on my server if there is one already.... Oh yea their is one! Let me download it (few kilobytes), and apply it! Ooohhh jashaf will be so happy!" To check for that, in Windows, do Start > type: color > select: Color Management You'll see this panel: (notice my Dell U2410 color profile under the highlighted item that I have.. well highlighted) On it, check the box like I did Use my setting for this device, then click on the Add button, and select from the list: sRGB virtual device model profile. Once added, click on it, and click on Set as Default Profile button. If the button is disabled, then it means it's already set as default. Close the panel and restart your computer. Does the tint issue is still there? It does not mater. It should not be blue AT ALL (unless you have LED blacklight.. then you don't have much choice, as the white LED backlight outputs a blue'ish light). I am a developer as well, down to even making my own icons for my software. I would notice a blue tint. Nooo.. I meant ON the monitor! Take your index finger, and bring it close to the power button of the monitor. Very close to it. Don't touch the power button!. Notice a blue LED illuminated as your finger is close to the power button (or itself). Tap on this newly illuminated blue LED. A menu will on the screen will pop-up, and more blue LED buttons will show. Tap on the blue LED's that represents the menu item (not on the screen.. it isn't a touch screen ) to navigate the menu. Make sure you are using Adobe RGB color profile (see instructions that I mentioned). - 1 or more bright pixel (stuck on a color or on white). - 6 or more dead pixel. The above applies for all Dell's Ultrasharp (U series) monitors, Professional (P series), and Alienware OptX monitors. There are no zoning count or anything like that. If you have 6 or more dead pixel on all 4 corners pf the monitor... it's like if they were all at the center or the left or right.. or anywhere. Dell doesn't have any cheap excuses to try and avoid covering you. If you have a bright pixel at the top most cover, first pixel, on the screen, they will NOT tell you "Yea, but it's on the corner.. at Zone1, and we mean center zone, and this and that.." No! You are covered! When you call Dell about the issue for RMA. You get to KEEP the monitor while Dell sends you a replacement one (refurbished, of course... but Dell refurbished are generally good). Once you receive it, you'll notice in the box a pre-paid shipping label that came with the monitor. Simply swap the monitors, and strict the provided pre-paid shipping label on the box, and the appropriate mail carrier to come and pick it up. (you'll have a few days to return it). Once you have installed the replacement monitor, scan for issues. -> See if they are 6 or more dead pixels -> See if their is 1 or more bright pixel -> Make sure that the monitor sand is moving smoothly like the other one, including height control. -> Make sure that the they are no squeaky noise as you adjust the monitor on the stand. -> Make sure that all inputs functions (if you can) -> Make sure that the on screen menu of the monitor is easy to navigate. -> Make sure that the power button work perfectly. If you see any issues (except cosmetic unless it's something really big that you can push, like a scratch on the panel itself), you are covered for replacement. Contact Dell Tech support, for a second replacement. At the second replacement you have or should have an """inspected""" monitor, and third one should be a new one. If you have any issues, you can contact Michele Dell directly at these e-mails: http://consumerist.com/2008/11/email-michael-dell.html If things goes out of hand for some odd reason, you can post your story at the Consumerist.com (Consumer report blog site), and if your story is published, Dell will contact you and try and resolve the situation and make you happy. Usually anything that appears there gets the company attention, as it's bad PR, on the web.. and that can spreads faster than wild fire. [qupote] Thanks again for the detailed response! [/QUOTE] Thanks. Fell free to rep me anytime you like my posts
Doh! Of course. How stupid of me... (I had played around a lot with these settings when I first got the monitor... but lately hadn't touched them, also when I bring up the onscreen monitor controls the first thing I see is PresetModes at the top...) In any case, changing this to AdobeRGB or sRGB and doing another recalibration on my MacPro didn't seem to change the tint at all. But aren't all Dell U2711 backlit the same way and by LED? Thanks for the detailed information on how to get Dell to take this back... I almost don't want to deal with the red tape, but you have me almost convinced to try and get a replacement for this one... Cheers, Jas
Ok so year, the monitor has something wrong. Nope. The Dell U2410, U2711 and U3011 all 3 uses a high grade CFL backlight. That is why your monitor is thick, and gets warm over time. high grade CFL backlight offers you the following: -> Very bright screen -> Wide color gamut support (this is a up or down side, based on your taste and needs) -> Virtually no warm up visible, and fast (compared to ordinary cheapo CFL's. LED's dont' have any warm up time) -> "True" white's (compare to cheapo CFL's (produces a warm white), and all LED's (from blu'ish to a cool white depending on the quality of the LED used) Unless you call at lunch time, your experience with Dell should quick and easy. Not Logitech amazing, of course (they are unbeatable), but compare to most, I think you will be satisfied to some level with the service. Be nice, polite, and calm, and you'll get good service. I like everyone at bit-tech to enjoy their computer the most as possible. So I try to help anyone the best I can. I can help the most with Dell, as they are a lot of stories that I read (success and bad ones), and I have a lot of experience with them (when I used to be a IT before going soft dev (I am still at University), we use Dell system. So I know a lot about them, what to say and not to say. So remember avoid the word 'tint". If you just notice it, then just say that the problem appeared recently. And of course, specify that you have tested 2 computers, a Mac and PC, that you tried the latest drivers, and that you tried the different color profile on the monitor. And that you tried different inputs on the monitor, and even a different cable. This should eliminate or reduce any testing that might be asked from you. Now unless you are the only one in your region that bought this monitor, the replacement monitor should have the problem solved, as it should be coming from a different batch (unless you are very unlucky). If the cables are provided from your replacement, be sure to switch them. While it's not a must.. it never hurts to rule them out. Beside they are newer, so wtv. Feel free to keep me updated on the situation.
Check out AnandTech review on it: http://www.anandtech.com/show/5998/macbook-pro-retina-display-analysis
