Hi everyone, I could use some help identifying the right product. Specifically, a replacement master phone socket. Background The phone socket at my place is old, it doesnt even have a test port! - Our internet is slow, unreliable and did i mention SLOW. I would like to update the phone socket so that I can rule it out of the equation for good, and i have a sparky mate who can fit it for me. Questions 1) Looking on Amazon - I have seen this.... http://www.amazon.co.uk/NTE5a-BT-se...XJ82/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344419266&sr=8-1 Is that what im after? or is there something better. 2) While browsing i found this http://www.amazon.co.uk/BT-Telephon...782M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1344419501&sr=8-2 Would this add to the first item i linked to improve things? Do i need both? or just this? I would appreciate some help just confirming what i need or what other items would help the situation thank you
I don't think you are supposed to do anything to the Master Socket, it's upto BT/Openreach to replace it if there's a fault with it? If you're getting rubbish internet speeds the first thing you need to be doing is contacting your ISP who can do the correct tests on the line. If there are issues they will arrange for an engineer to come and look into it. Are you sure the socket you've found is actually the Master Socket and isn't just an extension from the master socket which is somewhere else? ... I've seen a house where the master socket was in the loft and had an extension all the way down the outside of the house to another socket.
You are fine replacing the master socket. Its only the face plate and ive checked it out with bt abd my isp. I wont go into detail but lets just say ive been on to the isp about poor speeds plenty of times. Im slowly but surely ruling out all the things that could be causing it my end. So back on topic, has anyone replace their master face plate before? Am i on the right track with these bits?
Have seen different answers to this one with many saying both the faceplate and the test socket belong to BT, and others saying they own up to the test socket only. Just keep the original faceplate and swap it back before any engineer visits and you won't have any issues if you're worried. I swapped mine and can't say I noticed a difference at the time. I also shortened the internal wiring and relocated the master socked as it snaked through the house (you can get the tool for about 50p and just take a photo of the wiring before moving it). I also remember there is a wire you can sometimes remove which may help (bell wire perhaps?) but I'd have to read up again as I've forgotten TBH. None of this made a massive difference becuase the wiring to the house looked in bad shape (not paying for a new hop) and therefore I presume it wasn't great all the way back to the exchange. This makes far more of a difference than anything you can do internally. EDIT: You want only an NTE5 filtered faceplate and not the entire socket - so the second of your links.
As stated : You want only an NTE5 filtered faceplate and not the entire socket. detach the bell wire (not needed by modern phones and regenerated by ADSL filters) Telephone extension cable has 4 strands (2 pair). telephone extension cable Pin Colour Use 1 Not used 2 Blue/white "B" Wire 3 Orange/white Ring wire 4 White/orange Used for completeness or as earth in PABX systems. 5 White/Blue "A" wire 6 Not used Pre 1980 wiring: Pin2 Blue, Pin3 Brown, Pin4 Green, Pin5 Orange. These colours should be used as a guide. Some homes may have non-standard wiring. Removing the Ring Wire To disconnect the ring wire, carefully pull the wires out of the IDC terminals numbered 3 and 4, leaving only wires 2 and 5 connected. The photograph bellow shows an NTE5 faceplate with the ringwire disconnected, and tucked out of the way. In some cases, it is only necessary to disconnect the wire from the master socket, but it may be necessary to disconnect it from all extension sockets too, particularly if you have a "star" wired system. Whilst you are doing this, look at where the remaining wires are connected to the IDC block. They should be neatly cut off as close to the block as possible, with no overhang or "tails" showing. Adsl filters have their own capacitor, therefore taking the ringwire out of the loop still means that your phones will ring. . or get an Iplate: Enter the new I-Plate (Interstitial Plate) from BT. The iPlate is for NTE5 master sockets and has a 22mH choke which is intended to filter out interference that would normally be picked up on the bell wire*. The Interstitial Plate is designed for self install without the need for any wiring, or changes to the existing cabling, nor any special tools. The i-plate is not compatible with the new (2007) NTE5 faceplates marked Openreach which already have a bell wire choke installed. adsl I-Plate installation Unscrew the faceplate from the master socket Clip the i-plate on to the existing NTE5 backplate (it has a hole at the bottom for existing wires to pass through) Replace the faceplate over the i-plate and screw back up. Important note :- The i-plate does not separate voice and adsl data and still requires the need for separate adsl filters on each telephone device. * If you already have an adsl NTE5 faceplate and/or have removed the ring wire, then there isn't much point installing an i-plate. The 22mH inductor acts as a simple low pass filter which passes the low frequency ringing signal onto the third bell wire, but blocks the majority of the higher ADSL signal from passing through. This effectively isolates the third bell wire from the ADSL carrying pair and minimises the effect that this causes. Iplate on amazon All of these will do very little if you have, a bad line outside your house / you are on a very busy exchange / are a long distance from an exchange. NOTE: once fitted you must not be constantly rebooting your DSL as your ISP (due to you having a disconnected DSL) will start your connection at a "safe negotiated" speed and will try to slowly raise it's speed until you get errors (line noise/packet loss, etc) if you then keep trying to disconnect/reconnect it will assume the line is in error and SLOW YOU DOWN......
Photos of your socket & wiring (and other sockets if any) would be good to look at. And your router line stats from a daytime sync.
