hot damn zap, i love this shuttle, you may have out done your self I'm really tempted to make my own shuttle with all the frenzy over them in the past few months
hey zap, while you were at everlan did you get to meet/talk to Team Chenbro? only reasopn I ask is 'cuz the closest lan to my house (5 min away) is supposidly thier new "home lan" and I wanted to know what you think of 'em. -Bob
That is something I didn't know. Is there any way to tell the difference when purchasing a PSU. Finished product looks great btw.
Lets say you go to newegg.com to get a PSU http://www.newegg.com/app/manufact.asp?catalog=58&DEPA=0 Search for a 500-watt PSU Sort by lowest price: WOW, a MGE brand PSU for $30, and it's 500-watts! (Maximum power) http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=17-167-005&depa=0 If you look at the Album, there is an image of the specs on the side of the PSU, most important is the amps: +12volts: 17A or 204watts +5 volts: 38A or 190watts +3.3 volts: 28A or 92.4watts That is in theory 486.4watts. A good PSU could put out about 75% of that power all at one: That means this PSU probably really has running power of 365watts If we sort by highest price: We can find a Coolmaster PSU for $68.00 If we look on the specs for that: +12volts: 28A or 336watts +5Volts: 45A or 225watts +3.3 Volts: 30A or 99watts Giving a max of 660watts in theory. Again at 75% that is 495watts The coolermaster power supply will be able to handle 500watts running without any problems, and run cooler.
Well a good rule of thumb is look for a PSU that actually says it's peak and continuous output on it. No guesswork and chances are that if the company is straight out about it, they don't have anything to hide That one that Zap linked to DOES say 500w MAX on the side. Oddly, alienware of all places is trying to do the same thing.. except it's 650w. Come on people, it's more than ratings...
Thanks for the tutorial Zap... that explains alot of some of the issues I've bumped into. Much appreciated.
makes me mad i just bought a 64 bit 3000+ and now my one HDD decided to crap out on me, so i can't use my computer till like saturday cause i can't get a new HDD till friday, damn payday, come sooner
Sorry, that is not something I give away, as I don't need my projects duplicated commercialy. (They are usualy too expensive to remake anyways)
How about little hints for the protection circuit for the rest of us? I'm sure many here could do with something 'similar' for their machines...
You could do a closed loop. Where if any one device was removed from the loop, the alarm would go off. This is done by simply wiring a connection in series to a relay and alarm. +12volts---relay---con1--con2---con3---con4---gnd You can then install bypass switches, so that if you need you can bypass one connection, say if you wanted to remove a device.