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Old 3rd Dec 2012, 22:47   #1
atc95
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Need some modding advice

Hi guys wondering if you can help,

I plan on modding my xbox 360 elite (currently redundant) into a pc and am struggling with the hardware configurations on it. The intention is to use it as a hybrid between laptop and desktop with the potential for some light gaming eg borderlands 2. I have no experience of modding to date but only need to cut a few blowholes and drill holes for the motherboard standoffs. I have narrowed it down to 2 different hardware specs, which do you think is best?

silverstone 450w sfx psu (modular)
intel core i3 3220 or amd a10 5800k
afox radeon hd 7850 lp or integrated
gigabyte z77n wifi or msi fm2 a75ia
240gb ssd (mounted in the current elite drive bay)
2x4gb ddr3

the intel and discrete combo costs around 750 and the trinity combo is only 450 but what is best and also what would you use for cooling.

I have found out that a corsair h60 with a 20mm depth fan will fit or an air cooler up to 65mm preferably with no backplate. I also intend on making a 80 or 92mm blowhole and use 2x60mm fans as exhausts where they currently are on the xbox.

Thanks for the help
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Old 5th Dec 2012, 05:52   #2
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This would sound like a nice mod, I do like the elite matte black shell. But because of its limited internal space with xbox mobo shell all will be a tight fit especially for the Sliverstone 450 Watt PSU, GFX card and water or Air cool. Personally I like water cool, I am using corsair H100 on my PC built and could not be happier

I wonder since you just need to do some cutting if you should leave the front PCB board from the original fat xbox and tap its point so you can use the push on and off with LED light.

Would sound nice no need to drill hole and what not for the On/off/rest/ and Power/HDD LED

For the Gfx your Radeon will not be able to sit up so you might need one of this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PCI-E-Expres...item43b68681d5

So you can Lay the GFX card down and have the fan shot out from the front side panel where you chose to make your fan hole.

Also if you plan on recycling some of the Xbox part don't use the noise exhaust fan.

Instead get one of this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Talismoon-Wh...item3a7a3bd9f2

or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Talismoo...item4abc531617
I had used one of this in one of my old xbox360 mod and I can say It is supper quiet even under High RPM

The fan include additional light to choose from : Blue, Green, Red

I think you should do is draw out your plan its easier to know what it is you want it to look like and far easier for all of us to help you out more

If you need help knowing where to tap on the front PCB board I have some guide links on how to modify and also where to tap

Be warned you have to have somewhat of a good soldering skill for the PCB tap.


As for your SSD use the HDD shell and slot with the sata cable adapter for 2.5 SATA to 3.5 SATA

It looks similar to this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Over-e...item337dd756ff

I can not find the right adapter but you can see you just need to slide the small connector end through the bottom of the HDD shell to have your SATA connected without taking internal Mobo space
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Old 5th Dec 2012, 22:31   #3
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Ok thanks, I definitely think that the watercooling will work as the airflow isn't good enough in an xbox to get a cooler that can cool either cpu at full load.

The maximum enclosed loop i can get is a 120mm radiator, unless anyone knows of a 140mm enclosed loop, would i get better cooling performance from push pull with 2x 120x120x10mm fans or one 120x120x25mm stock fan on the cooler.

Also If that card doesn't fit despite being low profile I am almost certainly going with the trinity rig as there is not enough space to fit a radiator, psu and gpu all on the same plane.

Also using the xbox power button pcb is a great idea although i have only done very basic soldering in the past so will have to do a bit of research.
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Old 6th Dec 2012, 02:19   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atc95 View Post
Hi guys wondering if you can help,

I plan on modding my xbox 360 elite (currently redundant) into a pc and am struggling with the hardware configurations on it. The intention is to use it as a hybrid between laptop and desktop with the potential for some light gaming eg borderlands 2. I have no experience of modding to date but only need to cut a few blowholes and drill holes for the motherboard standoffs. I have narrowed it down to 2 different hardware specs, which do you think is best?

silverstone 450w sfx psu (modular)
intel core i3 3220 or amd a10 5800k
afox radeon hd 7850 lp or integrated
gigabyte z77n wifi or msi fm2 a75ia
240gb ssd (mounted in the current elite drive bay)
2x4gb ddr3

the intel and discrete combo costs around 750 and the trinity combo is only 450 but what is best and also what would you use for cooling.

I have found out that a corsair h60 with a 20mm depth fan will fit or an air cooler up to 65mm preferably with no backplate. I also intend on making a 80 or 92mm blowhole and use 2x60mm fans as exhausts where they currently are on the xbox.

Thanks for the help
atc95
I had a small discussion with nVidia country rep, a well known PC magazine brand and a hardcore PC gamer last month. We're discussing about a rather heavy topic: The future of game engine. (not actually discussing, it's more like nVidia told us about game engine developments, and the audience asks)

One topic that come up in mind is about SSD performance in gaming. They (nVidia rep, PC magz rep, and a known Gamer) agree that SSD not worth to buy if we want to build a mid class PC gaming. A high performance HDD (WESTERN DIGITAL SCORPIO BLACK 750GB - 7200 RPM) is enough. The differences are only a few seconds different in game loads and a hardly recognizable popping in game play.

Patient for only a few seconds and you get a better eye pleasure

Just my 2c

If you want a hybrid between desktop and laptop, just make the desktop a lot more powerful than laptop, otherwise you desktop will (maybe) redundant. So, AMD APU is out of options.

If you put aside your SSD plan, you might able to buy a 660Ti or 7950 or even an 670. a PCIE flexible riser maybe required (just as what Lostconfession said) so you can put your graphic card on horizontal position like motherboard. An i3 is enough, but i5 is better, i7 is out of options for gamer

a z77 is good but if you pick a B75 chipset you can have spare budget to spend on other items. A wifi usb dongle is wiser choice so you can use internet on all your devices. I'm still searching itx mobo with mSata support, it would be awesome if you use that.
Gigabyte wifi antennae looks ugly, try Z77E-ITX on Asrock http://www.asrock.com/mb/photo/Box/Z77E-ITX(m).jpg

Aaaah~ cooling... on i3 try THERMALTAKE SLIM X3 But if you insist on water cooling, yes H60 is the best price/performance.


just another 2cents

Last edited by jay2; 6th Dec 2012 at 02:35.
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Old 6th Dec 2012, 18:05   #5
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Hmm I like the way Jay2 thinks, and his right SSD + game isn't all to effective in loading, few second more isn't all that impressive.

But jay2 he might not have room to fit the WD scorpio in the Case alone with a disc drive.

When he referred to using and SSD I thought to fit into one of this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Official-Xbo...item3a7c3a67b8

Ebay does sell the shell alone for way cheap Btw

Which is why I added the 2.5 to 3.5 connection

Which in turn allows him to still have enough space for a disc drive Unless he does want to go with additional HDD then see if the WD scorpio fits, might be able to do a hot swap in the slot where the disc drive used to be Just an Idea.
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Old 6th Dec 2012, 18:38   #6
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I have no intention of installing a disc drive, there is no room and I can install win7 or win8 from a usb. I have room for a single 2.5inch drive and can use the conventional power and data cables to wire it up. There is enough space to fit them through the current gap in the elite hdd slot.

So I still want quick boot times, could I save money by using a msata drive for the os and then a Scorpio black or a hybrid like the Seagate momentus.

Where the disk drive currently is on the 360 is where i plan on fitting the radiator for the cpu, at this stage an h60 with either 1 stock fan or a push pull with 2 low profile fans.

Last edited by atc95; 6th Dec 2012 at 20:04.
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Old 6th Dec 2012, 23:09   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atc95 View Post
I have no intention of installing a disc drive, there is no room and I can install win7 or win8 from a usb. I have room for a single 2.5inch drive and can use the conventional power and data cables to wire it up. There is enough space to fit them through the current gap in the elite hdd slot.

So I still want quick boot times, could I save money by using a msata drive for the os and then a Scorpio black or a hybrid like the Seagate momentus.

Where the disk drive currently is on the 360 is where i plan on fitting the radiator for the cpu, at this stage an h60 with either 1 stock fan or a push pull with 2 low profile fans.
Okie now i see what direction your taking

Yes you will save enough money if you go with WD, for a quick boot and save on cash go with window 8, its 1/3 the boot time, 1/2 the resource consumption (Cache from memory)
Since window 8 resembles a lot like a tablet it is a very much put off to most window user, even if it has a quick boot up and does not consume a lot resource. Their are two ways to getting the start menu back on window 8, One is messing with registry If you do not know how to access or know what that is I suggest not to mess with that and instead use the second option which is using Star-dock start 8 which automatically configure your task bar to load the start menu It is a simple GUI and can be user friendly.

If you want to and have spare money go with OCZ SSD right now they are somewhat on sell I've seen 120 Gb for around $80 but I suggest do the proper research some deals are not worth the buy. You need to look for the write/read speed. Some SSD offer 512 Mb write/ 256 Mb read, While other offer 256 Mb write/ 128 Mb read with the same amount of space for a lot less. Then you can get WD and load up the games on it It what I am doing on my desktop with my current board.

For the water cool your fan setting is all upon your environment sort to speak. I have the push pull configuration but its because my PC is a corn where not much fresh air roams through without some kind of support. Since your make a mini conversion PC gamer it can easily fit on any desktop or small media table you might not need to do the push pull configuration.

Just a little advice with the corsair fan :/ Their not the quiet's fan around especial on the water cool. You might want to invest in some cool-master fan. Something with at least 2400 RPM or are silent running. I learned at full hand how loud this fan's can be -.- they equal out the old Xbox 360 Fan by the near same Decidable

Last edited by Lostconfession; 6th Dec 2012 at 23:14.
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Old 7th Dec 2012, 09:50   #8
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i cant imagine xbox case, since i never have seen one yet. (fully opened case of xbox 360)

i wonder if we can put msata on sata socket.. i've read review about Seagate momentus somewhere, and its not a good idea, still slower than average ssd and lower space than average hdd, but lot more expensive.
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Old 7th Dec 2012, 16:58   #9
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as it stands I have found a 60gb ocz msata II ssd and a 500gb scorpio black hdd both for 110 so I will be saving over my original plan a little bit.

The next issue is the mounting position of the radiator as I will have very little clearance in a 120x120 space due to ram and the water block on the cpu, also if it helps I can get a photo of the internal xbox case.

My current plan is to use one of these http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B...A3P5ROKL5A1OLE
which will attach to the h60 or thermaltake 2.0 performer (both 27mm in depth). This brings the height to 39mm so will give me 26mm at a maximum for the waterblock which i think is tight as the antec 620 waterblock is 27mm in height. I have emailed corsiar to ask about the height but I presume they are very similar in size.

Does anyone know the height of the waterblock or have any solutions for mounting?

Last edited by atc95; 7th Dec 2012 at 17:35.
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Old 7th Dec 2012, 19:14   #10
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It would help a lot if you do post some photo of the Xbox internal with measurements if you can.

About the water block hmmm I guess the block depth on the corsair is 50mm Not sure about width and height but it is square. Ill let you know in the next comment about full detail Since all corsair water block in the H 60, H 80, H 100 are the same. As for Thermaltake :/ Not sure what I can guess its a 40 mm block from the look of it.

Btw don't go with thermaltake it is a nice price but their is a lot of negative review for the pro 2.0 and 2.0 extreme. Mainly has to do with the back plate being plastic and not LGA2011 ready. I read someone managed to strip the plastic back plate trying to put the water block on a mobo for 2011.

If you do not have clearance with the water block then a good option is to cut a hole for the clearance. On the Corsair, it does not come with software, the water-pump control is on the water block itself. It has 3 main setting: Low, medium, high. The cool thing about the corsair, the block comes with fan control and water temp sensor all driven on PWM. The block has 4 slot for 2 additional fan Which is cool.
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Old 7th Dec 2012, 19:33   #11
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Photos in progress but the basic dimensions are

length 275mm taken up by: 85mm psu, 170mm mobo, space for pcie riser
width 215mm taken up by: 170mm mobo, 25mm xbox current fans
height 64mm taken up by cooling and psu

currently the parts i am thinking of getting are:

in the 4.5cm between motherboard and the edge i plan on putting either the current 2x60mm xbox fans or the custom ones that lostconfession mentioned earlier.

the psu is 175mm in length so in that 4cm i was thinking of mounting the msata as there is a 1cm clearance before the cables come out of the psu.
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Old 7th Dec 2012, 20:33   #12
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I have taken some pictures of the hdd bay, inner casing and fans, if any other pictures would be useful let me know

http://atc95.imgur.com/all/
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Old 11th Dec 2012, 04:15   #13
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Sorry I haven't reply to you. Been a hectic week

Anyways I did some measurement's to help you and a photo to boot



The measurement's are 36.5mm Height x 36.5mm Length x 24.5mm depth ( the depth is only the block minus the expansion of the copper heat sink.)

I would add to the depth another 6mm heatsink block expension and maybe another 6mm for processor block from board added to have clearance space total of another 12mm this is ofcourse a - or + another 2 to 4mm to aid. Giving extra space is not a bad Idea Always give yourself an extra 3mm

Last edited by Lostconfession; 11th Dec 2012 at 04:18. Reason: recalculated
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Old 11th Dec 2012, 17:27   #14
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In which case I don't think there is enough room . However, I have been asking on another post about the possibility of 2 xbox cases with one dedicated to watercooling components and a "quick disconnect" pipe running between the two. http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=252585. I think this would probably be the best option and it would allow a full height gpu like a 660ti or 670
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Old 11th Dec 2012, 21:36   #15
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In which case I don't think there is enough room . However, I have been asking on another post about the possibility of 2 xbox cases with one dedicated to watercooling components and a "quick disconnect" pipe running between the two. http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=252585. I think this would probably be the best option and it would allow a full height gpu like a 660ti or 670
I agree dual Xbox shell will work well in that case. And you will be able to stand your Nvidia card. So are you not going with pre made water cool? Would be cool to see you make your own. I want to take mine apart to swap the tube for clear one's with UV reactive dye liquid.
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Old 20th Dec 2012, 03:16   #16
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video of an Samsung SSD vs. WD HDD 7200Rpm. On proformance Wise



The read and write function on the SSD has a good lead
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Old 20th Dec 2012, 08:08   #17
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The likelihood is I will be using the 256gb ssd (sandisk extreme) from my laptop to save on costs for this as I am getting a new laptop or tablet for university. But the jump to ssd from hdd is quite considerable anyway, my only concern is that the sandisk is asynchronous but it was bought as a temporary speed boost for my laptop.
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Old 4th Jan 2013, 02:23   #18
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So as I promised I the PCB board for the xbox360

The diagram is for a light fader system but the pin out is the same on all of them

The PO is Power On where the i believe when you push the tact botton it turns the system on

GND is ground

PWR is power no less then 3.3volt - you might have to measure the power once you test this out on your board you might get less or more not sure.

The pinout are for a PluseUV system which is a micro PWM light fader/ Palse to music :/ I owned one and had to replace it several times. They stop producing them because of how easily any amount of static can destroy the SMD chip



Anyways you can use this simple diagram to work on your own PCB adaptation and work around. The L1 green is primary LED light for 2 light top and L2 is dual light lower goes with the same L1 red is the secondary light for 2 light top and L2 is 2 light lower... Secondary are always off unless when error happen.

If you are planning on swapping out the Lime green (xbox green) and red for other color or dual heres a Diagram on the load direction.


If I had my old Xbox360 I would help you more and do the testing for you but its been years since I owned one.

Last edited by Lostconfession; 4th Jan 2013 at 02:29.
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Old 4th Jan 2013, 09:47   #19
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I am not too bothered about the LEDs to be honest, if it is simple to wire and solder then I can add them but I have no idea how to.

How would I get just the power button to act as the power button with one of the single pin wires to the motherboard?
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Old 4th Jan 2013, 23:31   #20
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I am not too bothered about the LEDs to be honest, if it is simple to wire and solder then I can add them but I have no idea how to.

How would I get just the power button to act as the power button with one of the single pin wires to the motherboard?

Tact switch works like this


Here how you connect to the tact switch


and their are normally two wire to the power switch


You can solder the wire straight to the tact switch in front. But I would look at the tap point and wire from the back. You can also wire HDD activation to the L1/L2 of either red or green and Power indicator to the center by using the same tap point to the SMD
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