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Old 24th Jan 2013, 23:49   #1
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My questions thread: motherboards

Well, I'm sick of posting a thread every other day or so


Does anybody know of a motherboard that meets or exceeds these specs:
  • 5 or more pci-e 3.0 expansion slots that can all run at full x16 bandwidth with five slots occupied. More slots is okay, just as long as physical and bandwidth is above x1
  • 22-phase power or better
  • 4-channel memory(8 8gb sticks of ram)
  • raid 0 capable
  • 4 6Gb/s sata ports
  • quad-sli ready/certified
  • intel socket 2011
VERY demanding requirements, I know, but I at least wanted to check with you all first. Note: I would prefer not to buy evga due to the hit-or-miss chance of a working motherboard.

Thanks in advance.
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Last edited by siliconfanatic; 17th Mar 2013 at 21:08.
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Old 25th Jan 2013, 16:22   #2
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Normal car antifreeze but not sure your pump would like it. Why an AL rad when copper/brass ones are so readily available?
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Old 25th Jan 2013, 18:11   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Furball Zen View Post
Normal car antifreeze but not sure your pump would like it. Why an AL rad when copper/brass ones are so readily available?
Maybe he had one before he bought those blocks.

I also have one 240 mm AL rad, and I am aiming to use it.
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Old 25th Jan 2013, 18:19   #4
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Don't mix metals. End of story.

You can get away with copper radiators and nickel coated blocks, but otherwise don't go doing it.
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Old 25th Jan 2013, 18:52   #5
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I wouldn't go for just antifreeze - look for car radiator anti corrosion additives that list aluminium amongst the metals they protect and you'll be fine.

Depending on the quality of the plating and the type of bass used in the radiators it isn't necessarily fine - there were large quantities of zinc in the precipitate that EK had tested...
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Old 25th Jan 2013, 23:08   #6
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As Mankz said, a good rule of thumb is to not mix different types of metals in a liquid pump system.

This has to do with how likely different elements is to react with matter. If we look at Al and Cu, you will find that Al is more likely to react with matter than Cu. In a loop consisting of components made of Cu and Al, as you describe, chemical reaction will cause the Al to corrode faster than the Cu. To prevent this from happening one must choose elements with similar "willingness of reaction" (I can't remember the correct English word), for example by choosing either a system with rads and blocks made from Cu only, or a system with rads and blocks made from Al only.

Hope it is understandable

EDIT: I somehow managed to overlook that you apparently are well aware of galvanic corrosion. I apologize!

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Old 25th Jan 2013, 23:10   #7
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Hmmm.. think i could make a heat exchange plate? Aluminum for the rad, taking in heat from a copper plate? Would i see too dramatic an increase in thermal resistance etc? The aluminum rad is a style factor. And modular(airplex modularity). The rads already an integral part of my design now.... That's why I ask a question normally out of question as a rule of thumb..

@mork: Its alright, buddy. You were only trying to help so it is still appreciated!
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Last edited by siliconfanatic; 26th Jan 2013 at 02:10.
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Old 26th Jan 2013, 00:12   #8
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you mean these aqua computer ones? You might want to actually research the parts you're using:

"Base component of each radiator is a tube/fin element consisting of 21 copper tubes with aluminum or copper fins and a stainless steel flange."
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Old 26th Jan 2013, 01:22   #9
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If it is those ones then how it works is the internal parts like the rad tubes and the end chambers are made from (usually brass and copper in this case POM and copper) and the FINS which are external and used only to give the tubes more surface area are made a alu as it is cheaper to produce you get me?
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Old 26th Jan 2013, 02:08   #10
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So what your saying is that the coolant does not contact any aluminum, correct? If so then great! I really wasn't looking forward to another hour in the parts store looking for what I actually need instead of what they think I need 'merica....
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Old 26th Jan 2013, 10:59   #11
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Correct no mixing
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Old 8th Feb 2013, 22:07   #12
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Alrighty now that that one is solved I got a new question for you guys up top. Thanks for the help
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Old 9th Feb 2013, 01:37   #13
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Cheap mill bits from Enco?
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Old 9th Feb 2013, 02:39   #14
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I will try that out. Kinda dumb of me to not ask you about acrylic cheaps you of all people would Know about that subject
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Old 12th Feb 2013, 03:39   #15
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Okay, next step is: what would you say is the optimum rpm to prevent overheating and the likes?
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Old 12th Feb 2013, 11:16   #16
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I used to mill plexiglass with water soluble oil coolant in the machine factory. I can't remember specific feeds and speeds, but I know they were extremely slow and gradual. I'm not sure a DIY router will have a slow enough speed setting to accomplish this without melting the material - what make/model of router are you using?
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Old 12th Feb 2013, 21:49   #17
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You would have to ask the gramps. I'll get him to post it up asap.
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Old 14th Feb 2013, 22:13   #18
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Okay, its a dual-speed dremel. Lowest is 15000 rpm, higher is 35000rpm. He says we can mod it to have more and lower speeds but thats as it stands. He's currently working on upgrading it. Just got new high quality bearings in the mail. Should be all alu by the next month or so. JUST solved a thread binding issue, too, so the new bearings will prevent future issues like that. If you need any more info just let me know. I reaaly want to play it safe due to hopelessley small budget.
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Old 14th Feb 2013, 22:54   #19
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If youre using a real router and are only trimming it down (not cutting the sheet) then speed is not an issue as my router runs at 10,000 rpm and does quite nice for trimming using a flush bit.

I only used my mouse sander to smooth the edges out ever so slightly

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Old 15th Feb 2013, 00:27   #20
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I'm cutting 3mm channels into it. Dunno what you'd call that. Is just plain water okay as a lubricant/coolant?
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