Other Games Workshop

[liratheal]

Looks nice man.

The new Dark Angels kits are great for conversions - Loads of awesome bits.

Been working on a transport for the Terminators - Because it's rude not to have one:




Edit:

Finished them all tonight:

[philheckler]

Hey lira , are those marines the home brew guys you cast yourself ? if so they look really nice... , love the troop carrier too!

Finished the first Savage (pictured with new scenic base im building for azhag..)

[Cerberus90]

Love the weathering on that land raider.

I've just got some Tamiya weathering kits to try and get some better effects on my stuff.

[gilljoy]

lira your casting marines? Thats an excelent idea, I've got a load of 1k son metal parts I may cast to save myself some cash when it comes to making my 1k sons army.

Any tips on casting?

[liratheal]

Thanks chaps - And yes, not one of those terminators is original FW resin >.>

It's because I object to paying ~50 for five terminators, Gilljoy. ****ing absurd - Even more money if I wanted to do a 10 man squad of lightning claws, as that'd be five packs of the special weapons (16 each) as well as the two 33 quid packs of five bodies/legs.

I try and do single part moulds tbh, Gilljoy, they're a little trickier in terms of getting things out of moulds, but I find it much simpler to fill the mould properly, and subsequently less bin destined parts.

However, you do chew moulds up on (for example) the Cataphractii legs, so you tend to redo them more often.

Still, considering 30+ termies has cost me £30 in rubber and £30 in resin, not to mention all the dozer blades, deathguard stuff for the misses, I'm not fussed about doing moulds every now and then.

I use Sylmasta resin, but that's because I'm used to the rapid cure time. A mate gave me some rubber and resin I can't remember the brand of, the rubber's great, but the resin does take ~15 minutes to cure properly, which doesn't seem to gel with me in terms of using it.

[RedFlames]

@lira

would you be willing to post or point to a how-to guide for the noobs amongst us [i.e. me]

like you whilst i love the FW stuff it gets very expensive very quickly, and i need/could do with multiples of the various armour marks and the various weapons [going for a heresy themed DA army]

[gilljoy]

^^ this.

I'm going to pick up some resin + rubber over the next few weeks and start making myself alot of thousand sons lol.

Guessing you've kept the "master models" specifically for the purpose of making molds. Have to say that £2 per forgeworld terminator would be much more attactive than £10.

[liratheal]

I'll see what I can do - I need to do some at some stage in the near future, so I'll see if I can do it when there's someone around to take pictures.

[gilljoy]

Think I may have to order some resin, or find a local company near me to get some. And have a go.

Really interested about this as GW is getting very very very expensive.

Edit: Lith would you recommend this for starting off? Don't want to buy too much resin and silicon at once
http://www.sylmasta.com/acatalog/Syl...906.html#SID=6

[liratheal]

That's pretty much what I use - Just be aware that the clear resin can be a bit of a ******* for bubbles when you mix it, it also gets considerably warmer than the G27 from them, but the rubber holds up just fine.

[gilljoy]

Cool I'll have to pick some up, its a shame the shipping cost is terrible to me. What resin would you recommend instead?

[liratheal]

I use the Sylmasta G27 low viscosity - it's as crisp as FW, but the resin is more brittle (It's drop safe, but it does snap under pressure), and less prone to warping in the heat (IE, you need to get it really smegging hot to repose it), as it's curing is the best time to change the pose, as it's still soft (Soft like FW resin under a hair dryer, or warpcast in hot water).

It behaves more like plastic than the resins GW use.

I tend to leave a bit of resin in my mixing "cup" (I just use a rattle can top) and play with that while the stuff in the moulds cures, ones that gets to a stage where you can bend it between finger and thumb, and it doesn't flop around, I pull it from the moulds. That way it comes out a bit easier, and you can make pose changes if you so desire, and on top of that, you are a little bit less likely to tear the rubber as you remove it (If you do single piece moulds).

[gilljoy]

Originally Posted by liratheal

I use the Sylmasta G27 low viscosity - it's as crisp as FW, but the resin is more brittle (It's drop safe, but it does snap under pressure), and less prone to warping in the heat (IE, you need to get it really smegging hot to repose it), as it's curing is the best time to change the pose, as it's still soft (Soft like FW resin under a hair dryer, or warpcast in hot water).

It behaves more like plastic than the resins GW use.

I tend to leave a bit of resin in my mixing "cup" (I just use a rattle can top) and play with that while the stuff in the moulds cures, ones that gets to a stage where you can bend it between finger and thumb, and it doesn't flop around, I pull it from the moulds. That way it comes out a bit easier, and you can make pose changes if you so desire, and on top of that, you are a little bit less likely to tear the rubber as you remove it (If you do single piece moulds).

Brilliant thanks for the advice

I just found out there is a shop locally to me that sells the resin and RTV silicon so I'm going to go down and pick up 500g of each ( don't want to drop lots of money to begin with)

They recommend this stuff
http://www.mbfg.co.uk/liquid-plastics/fc-6720.html

So that should hopefully save me alot on postage costs.

Ok one last question, do you use any mold release agent?

[liratheal]

That's actually the stuff my friend gave me - The rubber cures quite quickly which is very welcome!

I don't usually, no. I've never found it that worth while with the G27 - However, it seems to be personal taste more than anything. Aforementioned friend uses it and prefers using it than not - But he does use that companies resin, so I don't know what the adhesion is like to rubber with that stuff having only used it once.

[gilljoy]

Originally Posted by liratheal

That's actually the stuff my friend gave me - The rubber cures quite quickly which is very welcome!

I don't usually, no. I've never found it that worth while with the G27 - However, it seems to be personal taste more than anything. Aforementioned friend uses it and prefers using it than not - But he does use that companies resin, so I don't know what the adhesion is like to rubber with that stuff having only used it once.

Brilliant, that's good news. I'll pick up the necessary supplies and give it a go this weekend. Going to start simple with some 1k Sons shoulder pads.

Then if that goes well I'll do some 2 part molds and depending on how it works I'll take some photos

[liratheal]

From what I've seen of the two parters my mate has done, he found it worked best with chunky feed lines that run under the part to be moulded, and thinner air lines back out of the mould, with as many locator lugs as possible - I think the trick is to get a really good seal between the two pieces, so as flat as possible on the split would benefit.

He hasn't tried it, but in our small time applications I'd try running a line of Vaseline or similar to try and make the two "stick" together a bit better than just clamping force (Which stands to cause it to deform as I'm sure you can guess).

I'd love to be able to do two parters and clamp them, then let it cure under pressure, but sadly I haven't the space or money to do that.

[Almightyrastus]

I think a lot of the FW stuff is done in single part moulds and then vacuum cured to ensure that all the air bubbles are out. I remember seeing plenty during my time there that had a huge amount of bubbles in the scrap risers from doing it that way.

Most of the moulds had a custom built box for each one when the rubber was poured then that box was used each time to hold the mould for pouring, that way the mould stays in exactly the shape it was. The rubber was also vacuum cured to ensure that it got right into the model which meant that any new masters had to be done very carefully to avoid any air voids in them as they would collapse.

[liratheal]

FW using single parts makes sense, having seen some of the horrific warps they can send out.

Thankfully, their resin is more receptive to hair dryer than the stuff I use - So I need mine to be right as they come out of the mould

I'd love a job over at FW as a mould maker - If money were no object that is.

[gilljoy]

Originally Posted by liratheal

FW using single parts makes sense, having seen some of the horrific warps they can send out.

Thankfully, their resin is more receptive to hair dryer than the stuff I use - So I need mine to be right as they come out of the mould

I'd love a job over at FW as a mould maker - If money were no object that is.

Going to pick up some resin + rubber tonight definitely going to be an interesting weekend.

[philheckler]

Old azhag now sitting proudly on his new base...