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Old 25th Feb 2013, 05:05   #21
swaggahurtz
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great build. with the paint...your temps are a little on the low side but are workable , you might want to try warming your cans of paint up in a bucket of warm water or the sun for a few minutes before painting. never use a can thats almost empty. they start sputtering. also try thin even coats, try not to get the wet paint too thick. if you have ever touched a metal piece immediately after spraying it you may notice that its cooler, that drop in temp (from the release of the paint)can peal up freshly spayed coats. also as you near the final coats up to the clear coat, i would not stop with 600 grit, 800, 1000, 1500 maybe. hope this helps.
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Old 25th Feb 2013, 12:48   #22
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Thanks for the advice HCP and Swag! Never really thought about putting it into the oven though (this piece wouldn't fit btw) but I can imagine it would speed up the drying process. Wouldn't it generate the 'cracking' effect btw if it dries too fast?

Anyway, in this specific case, the filler had time enough to set I believe. Between each layer there was at least 1 or 2 days to dry and before I started the final prep coat there was probably something like a week in between (time constraints).

At the moment for cleaning I used something called st Marc which is intended as a cleaner but also aimed at cleaning surfaces before painting.
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Old 25th Feb 2013, 14:02   #23
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I would not recommend baking the plastic piece. I have a paint baking guide for modders some where if you really want it. But it can be dangerous and two the reason for baking paint is to make the paint more durable and thin out over the piece you are painting for high gloss effect.
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Old 25th Feb 2013, 15:20   #24
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If anybody knows a decent laser cutter in the Netherlands who could do these for a decent price,
Not sure if still needed, but you could try Graveco.nl.
I had the atx passthrough pannels in my build done by them (Lemonade on HF forum works there, send a mail to info_at_graveco_dot_nl for price inquiries.)
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Old 25th Feb 2013, 21:08   #25
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Nice work so far!
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Old 25th Feb 2013, 22:17   #26
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I would not recommend baking the plastic piece. I have a paint baking guide for modders some where if you really want it. But it can be dangerous and two the reason for baking paint is to make the paint more durable and thin out over the piece you are painting for high gloss effect.
Will probably stay away from 'oven drying' as my oven isnt of the highest quality and I would probably ruin the piece instead of improving it...so I'll stick to the old natural drying method and hope to get it right next time (should be able to find some motip filler, primer, black and matte clear coat in a store nearby).

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Not sure if still needed, but you could try Graveco.nl.
I had the atx passthrough pannels in my build done by them (Lemonade on HF forum works there, send a mail to info_at_graveco_dot_nl for price inquiries.)
Thanks! Was still needed indeed. I'll send them a mail to get a quote from them soon!

And once again, thanks all for the tips & tricks and compliments!
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Old 4th Apr 2013, 13:26   #27
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This is a very clean project and the case is also excellent waiting for the updates

In such small case it will be interesting to follow the hardware management.
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Old 5th Apr 2013, 14:35   #28
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Thanks Ziza! And yeah, hardware, wire and tubing management will be very interesting.

Work has been pauzed for a bit though to work on my Pi cube for the competition!
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Old 29th Apr 2013, 14:59   #29
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PiQu is done! So its time to go back to work on the Arc!

As I'm rather proud of the PiQu project, I'll also harass you here with a small summary picture



Anyway, as said, time to start again with the Arc, so I present to you, Project Arc, Phase 2!



Last time I showed you guys anything it was about my frustration with the crappy paint job of the front panel. Over the past few weeks I have stripped most of it off, bought the right materials and redid most of the filler etc. As a result, this weekend I could finally do the final coat of matte black!

As the 'inlay panel' also is going to be the same color, I did it all in one go. Behold the end result!



Personally, I'm very happy with it! The coat looks great and none of the lines where I filled the panel are visible anymore!

Next step will be working on the inside of the case, but also testing out a few ideas I have for the logo to fill that gaping hole on the front panel

For the inside I will definately need a bit more hardware though, so I will also need to start ordering those.

I think the original hardware overview I made is still mostly accurate (see below). However, with the recent news of the introduction of the new Intel CPU lineup I have starting doubting again if I should wait for it....decisions, decisions...



Thanks for watching, and as always, comments are more than welcome!!
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Old 29th Apr 2013, 17:34   #30
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Man that looks really good! How well does it go with the paint job on the rest of the case? Or are you planning on painting that too?

lol "hardware", the constant game of waiting...
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Old 5th May 2013, 13:21   #31
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Thanks Mosquito! And the paint actually matches the rest quite well! The Fractal paint has more structure to it, but the overall color and gloss match quite well!

Anyway, over the last week I spend some time putting together a new tool to help with the next parts on the list A bending brake!

So here is a short log of how it was made, and finally looks!

For the record, this build is based on the following "instructable"! http://www.instructables.com/id/Home...i-Press-Brake/

To start me and my trusty hacksaw started cutting into the iron bars (don't have an angle grinder, and didnt think the dremel would like it...)



End result: Three bars of equal length (well...almost)



Next was claming it all together to determine where the hinges should come. The best would of course be to have hinges on the side, parallel to the bending axis, but that would require a lot more components and risk of errors. Also the fact that I have no clue how to weld (and as such do not have a welder thingy) made me decide to go the 'easy route'



After this I forgot to take pictures, but I'll shortly explain
- Drill all holes to mount the hinges with some bolts & nuts
- Prepare the wooden base plate by making space for the protruding bolts (as it has to sit flush with the wood)
- Drill holes and attach large M10 bolts to mount the entire thing to the wooden plate
- Attach arm to make the bending easier.

And there we have it, one small, portable and very cheap bending brake!





So, with this tool, bending the aluminium etc should become a whole lot easier

On to the next parts of project Arc!
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Old 5th May 2013, 18:53   #32
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Great idea, Looking forward to seeing how it performs, certainly beats the hammer method and if it works I'll be thieving that idea for sure
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Old 19th May 2013, 13:07   #33
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Log 6 - Radiator brackets

You guys remember this?



Well, they were OK, but hardly allowed for any adjustment to get the radiator dead in the middle of the front hole. Meaning that I would have a hard time lining up the radiator with the front panel not even the mention that I might not even have succeeded....

So, into the bin they went, and something new had to be found!

While looking at the front of the case I noticed some non-used screw holes. Still not sure what they are intended for, but they were in an (almost) perfect location. As these are already threaded, I would not have to use nuts to fasten the screws, meaning another layer 'clutter' out

A small bit of designwork:



Followed by some cutting, sanding and bending (using my new bending brake) resulted in this:



Which will be mounted like this (different screws when the actual fans will be on of course):





Painting the parts (and some spacers for the 4 middle mounting holes on the radiator to keep the fan flush)



Resulting in this:



As I want it to look as clean as possible I decided that I did not want any screws on the outside of the fan (also saves me some precious millimeters) so I decided that I needed screws which I could put into opening between the outer and inner 'plate' of the fan. These however cannot be too big, not too small, not too short (which was mostly the case) and not too long (to prevent puncturing the rad).

However, going through my assortment of screws etc I couldn't find anything. Then I remembered that the Arc itself also came with a set of screws in which I found these puppies!



They are actually HDD mounting screws, but were absolutely perfect! Not too long, not too short, and fit in there like a glove! So, if anybody from Fractal is reading this: Thanks! (and please send some more if you can spare them :P)



So with this setup, I've got a nice push-pull configuration, with very limited space lost on the inside of the case!



And just to round up, a picture of the front fully assembled (logo still missing)



And finally a picture with Both rads mounted!



I'm now wondering if I should make a shroud to cover the rads with openings for the airflow similar to the one in the front panel as those grey 'grummets' are a bit disturbing the overall look and feel I think...

Anyway, too many picitures for a very small update, but I'm rather pleased with the end result!

What do you guys think?
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Old 20th May 2013, 09:11   #34
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Looking very good. great job mate
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Old 20th May 2013, 10:18   #35
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Very clean build. I loved your piQu case.
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Old 20th May 2013, 10:28   #36
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Great job on those radiator holders.

To be honest I thought the hinges on your DIY brake looked too flimsy but the result looks great so i guess I was wrong.
I really like the look of the front. Very clean and almost minimalistic.

Good luck with the rest of your build!
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Old 20th May 2013, 13:30   #37
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Looking very good. great job mate
Thanks!

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Very clean build. I loved your piQu case.
PiQu was quite a different scale than this one, but both have its own merrits! And indeed going for clean! But the difficulty is to keep it all coherent and not close of the entire inside (as that will only make it feel cramped and small!)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ocelot View Post
Great job on those radiator holders.

To be honest I thought the hinges on your DIY brake looked too flimsy but the result looks great so i guess I was wrong.
I really like the look of the front. Very clean and almost minimalistic.

Good luck with the rest of your build!
Well, to be honest, the hinges are on the 'flimsy' side, but as long as I stick to aluminium and not try to bend stainless steel I think I will be fine as the brake indeed works just fine! I had to make the trade off between heavy strong hinges (but a lot larger) or these smaller ones which would allow for a better fit between the parts and a bit tighter bends (I hope).

But so far so good!
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Old 20th May 2013, 21:05   #38
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Nice work so far. Finish is excellent so far.
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Old 5th Jun 2013, 21:41   #39
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Update 7 - Backplates

Taking a bit longer than initially anticipated, but I'm still making some progress!

Decided to start working on the interior of the case, which in this case meant closing the 'gap' next to the motherboard tray, and covering up all the holes in the motherboard tray itself.

The initial idea was to make one big plate to do both of the above mentioned things. However, after making the plate I quickly discovered it was too big to get it in in one piece....should have thought about that before wouldnt you say? Anyway, being stubborn and all, I tried to force it in there, and it broke....

The parts however were still usable, so I decided to take a different approach. Close the gap next to the mobo-plate with an element which will be mounted slightly deeper in the case (so the back of the mobo plate) and a second element to cover all the cable holes etc.

The process!

First plate (or better said, the remnant of the first plate). The material I'm using is some left over plexi which is matte black on one side and shiny on the other side...will be painted in the end.



Shot without the plate:



Shot with the plate:



There is still a small gap on the right side, but it will be hidden from sight by the radiator.

Second plate was a bit more work as it had a bit more holes etc to create in the exact right spot to allow some of the metal elements of the mobo-tray to protrude.



And again a before shot (rather dirty case atm)



And an after shot without a 'motherboard' (I can assure you all edges are nice and straight although the photo seems to suggest the opposite)



And one with a printed Gene V for good measure!



I'm actually quite happy with the end result to be honest, but the final test will of course be with the panels painted, and the hardware in the case

As always, comments are more than welcome!

And for the record, I decided to go for a Haswell CPU in the end most likely a 4670K with an Asus Gene VI 1150 mobo!
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Old 5th Jun 2013, 22:02   #40
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I like what you did there. Looks really nice and clean
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