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Old 3rd Jul 2003, 14:35   #1
ZapWizard
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ZapWizard's LAN PC -Custom Ammo PC -Completed Jan 18 '04

Lastest update:
http://forums.bit-tech.net/showpost....&postcount=910



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Winner of the TechTV Modification contest
http://www.techtv.com/screensavers/s...536290,00.html


Introductory and latest images:

The PC is now complete, High res images are located here:
http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthrea...207#post401207

PC upgrade with LCD is located here:
http://forums.bit-tech.net/showpost....&postcount=910

Also a short log was made for easier reading, but it does not contain all of the answers, and details that this thread contains.
So I still recommend reading the full log you are at now.
Short log:
http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthrea...threadid=38026



























Last edited by ZapWizard; 31st May 2004 at 03:42.
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Old 3rd Jul 2003, 14:40   #2
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That's right I have already started my next project.
My Media PC will still be completed soon, but I still have time at night to work on new stuff.
(Please no comments on the Media PC in here)

If you have been in the chat room anytime in the past two weeks you have seen this from the beginning, and helped out a lot with ideas, special thanks to Hydrogen18.
(Chat room is #bit-tech on quakenet.net)

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Now onto the project:

This project is a TOTAL conversion.
Nothing from the front will let you on that the device is actualy a PC.

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Here is the actual case. It will probably need a little vinyl dye to clean up some spots.
The case, a 14"x14"x5" Ammunition case. It is 12x11.75x4.75 inside.
It is crush proof plastic, and water proof.
It opens up on both ends, and also has carrying straps on both ends.
It also is NOT light. It weighs 10lbs

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Both doors swing open a full 180 degrees, but they don't detach.
I have some ideas for the top of the door.
I think I will put a diagram that shows what connectors do what, but still military style.

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Here is the inside, as you can see it's not perfectly square nor the same size in the middle as near the openings.

This will be both good, and bad, as fitting parts will be a little more difficult.

The inside is exactly 12" as is my motherboard, so I have two choices, buy a micro atx board, or cut rails into the side to allow the motherboard to fit

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This is the original image from the retailer

I didn't expect the explosives sticker to still be there, but that means I can put my own design there.

/Edit... I noticed later the original sticker IS there....only painted over
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Old 3rd Jul 2003, 14:42   #3
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The renderings





Here you can see the components in a preliminary placement.
The power supply will probably have to be hacked to allow better air flow, and also the graphics card.

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Here are some preliminary renderings.
The front has a Noritake 800 series Vacuum fluorescent display.
Custom USB, Network, VGA, and Power jacks
The speaker cover at the left is a fan intake. The grill at the right is a fan outlet.
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Old 3rd Jul 2003, 14:47   #4
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This was the original rendering I did, before received the case, and before I had exact inside dimensions.
Things were spaced a little better, but then again, I had two extra inches I didn't take into account.

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Here is a direct print out of the DXF file from the rendering.
Everything is to scale

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Attach to cardboard, cut, and vola, instant prototype.

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All the parts mounted up.

A few parts need tweaking and re-measuring, but for the most part they all fit perfectly.

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And now with the jacks plugged in.
This gives me a better view to make sure none of the cables really get in the way.
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Old 3rd Jul 2003, 14:58   #5
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Now all the parts I had just lying around the house, waiting for a project.
This is the reason I started this project so soon, as I had so many parts for it already.

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Noritake 128x64 800Series VFD.

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Here is the VFD in operation.
First with system stats, then the next two are from a DIVX file of the Matrix Reloaded Trailer

I already have some cool sine wave patterns I made in trueSpace that I will display on the screen when gaming.

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A covered keyswitch.
This will be used to cut power to the USB keyboard and mouse, allowing me to leave my LAN pc without worry of someone using it.
(Key can be removed in either the OFF or ON position)

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This is the first part I have bought for this project.
They are really CB Mic connectors, but will work perfectly as USB replacements.

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This is a XLR type jack, but will be used for a power connection.

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Volume Control (Two for Front and Rear sound)

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And the headphone jacks.
Note that most of the jacks on this PC lock in some way, making them impossible to pull out unless they are unscrewed or released.

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Push button switches for Power/Reset/and CD Eject

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Old School.
You can't beat a good old Neon Power indicator.
Complete with flicker!

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Large style LEDs for Network and IDE activity

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Here is the Fan speed control, using a diode bus.
http://www.cpemma.co.uk/sdiodes.html

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Green LEDs that will be used with the fan control to indicate fan speed.

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The analog meter.
This meter will have a dual purpose:
When the LAN is inactive, it will show the current voltage on the fans.
When the LAN is active the voltage will drop to zero, and back.

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Power socket for the lights in the keyboard

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Here are the some of the fans I have just lying around.
These will work perfect for this project.

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This will be the CPU fan, a freebie I won at a LAN Party

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A small three outlet surge protector, you never know at a LAN.

(Was vinyl dyed black)

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The motherboard (If it fits) will be a SOYO Dragon (Original model)
This motherboard is not my favorite, and will probably be replaced with a nForce2 MicroATX Board.

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The PSU (if it fits) is a 145-watt mini PSU (That fan is 80mm)

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The CD-Rrom will be a slot load 20x
A little slow, but still perfectly functional.
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Old 3rd Jul 2003, 15:05   #6
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The Keyboard

This was posted in a seperate thread, and a few of you caught on to what it was REALLY for.



For the LAN PC I wanted a lit up keyboard.
Granted it is red in the image, it will be changed to green to fit the PC.

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The keyboard: A Ortek EKB-880.
I aquired it for $10 used. I forgot to take a "Before" Image.
The keyboard was a combo translucent green and white.
The keyboard was actually made for a Macintosh.
But since is is USB it also works just fine for windows, and has all the right keys.
It also has a bonus of a built in 2-port USB HUB


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Here you can see the clear bottom.

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In order to backlight the keys I needed to mask them off from the rest of the keyboard.

(Didn't photo this step)


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I actually vinyl dyed the inside layer, rather than the outside.
This will ensure that it doesn't rub off over time.
Once vinyl dyed, I had to touch up a few corners with acrylic model paint.

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In order to get a even backlight I need to get the light through the key-membrane.

The membrane is translucent, but the PCB type supports on the back do let any light through.


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The solution? Plexi!
This plexi was from some broken store shelves, so it was already scratched up, but it will serve it's purpose.
I stuck the original plates directly to the plexi using thin double sided tape.
I used five strips each, two or three would have been just fine.
(It took forever to take them apart)


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Now with the first piece cut out.

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A perfect match!


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I then cut and installed all the plates.
The extra thickness didn't seem to hurt anything, and they installed perfectly.


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Now for the backlighting.
I had a Dual RED cold cathode just lying around, so I put it to use.
These will probably not end up as the final lighting, as I would rather have the inverter run on 5 volts instead of 12.
I also want to use green cold cathodes.
I had to trim a little plastic, and apply some more sticky tape, but everything fit just fine.

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Here you can see the cold cathodes.
The light up the whole area around the keyboard, giving a bonus UFO effect.


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Here they are with the flash.

(Inverter is outside the box, as this photo was before I mounted them)


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A close-up showing the cold cathodes un-lit, and lit


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And another of the keys.


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A night shot.

The effect is very cool, but of course only the edges of the keys are lit, not the keys themselves.


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And the final shot.

Every button on the keyboard still works, perfectly.
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Old 3rd Jul 2003, 15:05   #7
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Ok, now that we have the Cold Cathodes installed we need a new cable that can carry both data, and an extra +12volt line

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The keyboard has a built in power switch, that is useless for PCs (it is used for macs)
This is the perfect spot to put a power switch for the Cold Cathodes.
But the original switch is a momentary.

-----------------------------------------------------------------


So a new switch was installed that is Push-ON/Push-Off
This switch was removed from some PCB a long time ago, and I had it in my parts bin.

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The original signal traces were then cut, and an area to solder to was scraped away.


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The power wire to the cold cathode inverter was then wired to this switch.


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Press the switch, the lights turn on
Press it again, they turn off

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The whole keyboard is now wired with the new thicker cable.
This cable has 6 wires, enough to carry the USB signal and an extra +12volts and ground.

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The extra 12volt line will be wired to this jack

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Now for the custom connectors.
The first will be a USB plug
the second is the extra +12volt power plug

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The new plugs were then soldered and installed along the cable.
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Old 3rd Jul 2003, 15:10   #8
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The Monitor Cable



For VGA I need 10 pins, which this connector has.
(R,G,B,Vsync,HSync, and their respecive grounds)

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The victim: A VGA to BNC cable.
It is very long, and VERY heavy duty, perfect for this PC.
Also since it has the BNC connectors, the signals are already separated into their respective pairs.

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First the cable was cut, stripped, and each mini-coax was tinned with solder

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Then heat-shrink was applied to make sure that no wires cross

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Soldered in place perfectly.

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The final cable, A custom jack on the PC end, and a normal VGA on the other.
The normal VGA end will plug directly into most flat panel monitors, or via a gender changer, into a normal monitor.
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Old 3rd Jul 2003, 15:12   #9
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The modified power cable



The original power cable and it's new connector.
The new connector is a heavy duty XLR type microphone jack.
It has terminals heavy enough to carry the high voltage needed

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The new connector soldered in place.

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And finally totally assembled.
A word of warning though, the XLR is a MALE type jack, which means if plugged into the wall, you CAN touch the hot pins pretty easily.
Also DON'T plug it into a mic jack!
None on this should be a problem; as I am the only one who will be using the PC.
The safest way to plug it in will be to plug the PC end in first.
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Old 3rd Jul 2003, 15:14   #10
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Modified Mouse



The original mouse.
A Microsoft mouse, that has been vinyl dyed nearly totally black

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The new connector soldered in place.
You can also see the wrapping of electrical tape I had to add to thicken up the cable.
As the original cable was too thin for the new connector to get a grip on.

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The final connector.
It is virtually pin per pin compatible with USB.
For example Pin1 is +5volts, the same as Pin1 on a USB

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A more industrial style mouse.


/EDIT....
I have changed my mind on the mouse, and will instead mod a Logitech MX300 mouse, as I can add green glow effects to this mouse.
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Old 3rd Jul 2003, 15:20   #11
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SICK!!!!
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Old 3rd Jul 2003, 15:22   #12
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Holy S**T. Your stuff just keeps getting better.

I shall watch this one with anticipation.

Can't wait to see it take form.

Kepp up the good work mate....
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Old 3rd Jul 2003, 15:25   #13
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From Penski:
Quote:
Some XLR's use the shell as ground...
I soldered up the XLR my self I am sure that the shell is not grounded, or hot.

(Sry thread merge didn't work)
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Old 3rd Jul 2003, 15:25   #14
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dude... I will kidnap you and have you make a sweet case for me
Dude, you rock!
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Old 3rd Jul 2003, 15:27   #15
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Darn you you've just put all the other ammocase PC's (including mine) to shame!

Certainly gonna think about re-plugging some of my stuff - such a good idea!
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Old 3rd Jul 2003, 16:13   #16
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This isn't the computer with all the flames on it, is it?
I like this project a lot, but I think that power connector looks dangerous. You have wired a male plug to a male plug? I think you should have had the male end (mic plug) in the computer, and the female on the wire. It could be dangerous for e.g. kids who could unplug it and touch the leads.
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Old 3rd Jul 2003, 16:25   #17
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The flame computer idea was too expensive, both in parts and lighting.

I am not too worried about kids pulling the jack out, as it locks in place, and is actualy pretty hard to remove, at least nearly impossible to pull out by accident.

Actualy evey jack on this PC locks or threads in place.
(except the keyboard lights power jack)

Later, if I need, I can change the power cable gender.
But I am going to be the only one setting up the PC, and playing on it, so I don't think it will be a big problem.
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Old 3rd Jul 2003, 16:29   #18
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i've seen this a few times in the IRC channel and think it's amazing. gonna also be watching this one very closely (along with the mediapc one of course )

one question: are you gonna also do something to your monitor to make it military style? it would look better imo if everything "matched" (are you using a crt or lcd for lans?)

*let's also hope this thread doesn't get QUITE as much spam as another thread around here *

*EDIT*
whats the small translucent looking button in the middle of the keyboard? i'm also assuming that it's got the apple button(s) instead of the windows button - does that still act/work like a normal windows button? (do ALL the buttons work like it is just a normal windows keyboard, or do some not work/not work right?)

*EDIT EDIT*
just noticed that even though the power switch for the CCs is green, it still looks red when they're turned on. very nice little effect

*EDIT EDIT EDIT*
is there a reason that you chose to use a male plug on the power cable instead of the female one?

*EDIT EDIT EDIT EDIT*
look at all those edits

*EDIT EDIT EDIT EDIT EDIT*

Last edited by Da_BaCoN; 3rd Jul 2003 at 16:37.
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Old 3rd Jul 2003, 16:38   #19
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The monitor I plan on is a Samsung 151N
http://www.newegg.com/app/viewproduc...ion=24-001-061

It has a black bezel, and is also very thin on the edges.
I use a 151S at work and know that I like it and it's good for games.

The replacement motherboard I plan on is a Chaintech nForce2 Micro ATX board.

http://www.newegg.com/app/viewproduc...ion=13-152-024

Edit....(ahem...)

That is not a button, it's just some weird thing on the keyboard, so I left it lit up.
If I ever need a push button somewhere I will put it there first.
(As in the post, all the buttons work with windows, correctly)

The keyboard will be changed to a green color anyways, as the red just doesn't "fit" this pc

The only reason I used a male plug for power is that I had those parts laying around already.
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Old 3rd Jul 2003, 16:38   #20
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Very nice. Especially the USB plugs!
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