My Tygon R3603 has plasticized like mad and I hate the shade it turns my lovely red coolant from Mayhems. When the 670 blocks arrive (now available on pre order) I will rip it out and start again. I've looked at several threads on other forums and all are suggesting there is no non cloudy/discolouring tubing available currently. I throw it to the bit community, anyone got any suggestions for decent 1/2" ID clear tubing that hasn't got a clouding or discolour issue? Or even a nice coloured tubing that will match Mayhems red X1? Cheers
Hmmm il find out what stuff im using as it hasnt clouded. Having said that ive never left tubing or water in my rig longer than 6 months before replacing. So it might not be long enough to see those effects anyway?
I allowed my coolant to warm to about 40c testing unaware that this tubing is suseptible to plasticzing at warmer temps and it now looks horrible. Mayhems has a thread about it at overclockers.net I've heard that Primochill LRT has changed and is now not very good or there is a large dodgy batch? Again this I got from another forum. Any help would be appreciated
I've never had clouding with Primochill and that includes new batches. However my water temps don't go more than 5-6ºC above ambient, so typically around 25ºC rising to perhaps 35ºC if the ambient temps get really hot which might explain it. I've been following Mayhem's thread with interest. Edit: Some people have reported clouding after as little as a few hours.
So does this affect primochill tubing? Also does it effect thermal performance? EDIT: sorry just read big elf's post, so it usually occurs above 40c I guess
Jeeze. My water temps hover at 38C and go up to about 57C in gaming (I blame the 480's). I have TFC stuff, its blue in colour but so far I haven't seen any changes and am very happy with it.
It can have an indirect effect on your loop. Depending on the block construction the plasticiser can gunk up the pins and eventually affect the flow rate. I have a couple of small lengths of clear soft Clearflex in my loop to help decouple the pumps. Those bits of tubing are white now and I removed a fair bit of the plasticiser gunk from my CPU block as the flow rate had almost stopped. I'd got lazy and hadn't checked the block for over a year which is why it built up so much. I never had any problems with TFC tubing either but prefer Primochill as it's a bit softer and bends a bit better.
I've been using Bitspower Crystal Links for over a year and they still look the same as when I put them in.
Well I wanted stiff clear tubing without spending a fortune on crystal links, and I can: http://www.theplasticshop.co.uk/acrylic-tube-extruded-clear-8mm-od-to-25mm-od-3413-0.html 5 x 2m lengths of 13/10mm acrylic tubing delivered to your door for £30. Unfortunately dizzi, the price goes up to £100 for 1/2"ID
Not buying it till monday, but I'll take a snip off one when they arrive and let you know. Although come to think of it, what would be the best saw? I think I might have to bring the junior hacksaw out of retirement. Smaller teeth should mean cleaner cut. EDIT: bit silly having to order 10m at a time. BUT, they're only 15 mins from where I live, so could see if they'll do less for collection, then I can chop it into smaller sections and post it to you.
Sorry, what do you mean? Do you mean how will I attach them to the res, pumps etc? If that what you mean then I'll be using compression fittings.
It's rigid tube, compressions won't work. Multi link adapters will like this will as long as you're using straight lines and the ports line up exactly. Edit: Just to add that the multi link adapters fit 12mm OD tubing only.
I've got a D plug that might work but its still limited by the OD and straight lines edit - no it won't, o rings are on the male end
i know it wont be that simple, but with a bit of sanding, ok LOTS of sanding and some ptfe tape i'm sure i can get it to work.
I still think you'd need multi-link adapters and exactly straight connections unless it's possible to bend acrylic tubing without distortion. The rigid tubing I've seen has used copper and either the multi-link adapters or flanged connectors.