Several years back I purchased a rather large computer case that had been imported from Japan. Now I have begun work on restoring it. Ok, it obviously it wasn't a computer case originally, and initially I had intended to restore it as a dedicated Marvel Superheroes arcade machine. I bought the A and B boards, but after pricing arcade monitors, I decided that MAME was the way to go. Hence it now qualifies a computer modding project. The speakers are in perfect condition. At this point I have dremeled my way through 4 locks and removed the joysticks and buttons, opening the case for the very first time. Not pictured is the result after having removed other remnants of the Jamma wiring and the coin mech and vault, which only accepted Yen. Next I will prep the surface, sanding and pounding out/filling dents. Then I will have the paint matched at an auto store and begin painting. Afterwards I will have decals printed up.
hey, http://www.killercabs.com/ seems to have a pink version of your cabinet, they also have some tutorials
Nice find, thnx! These used to be all over ebay, wish I had purchased a few more. They came in pastel blue, green, yellow (I think...), and pink. I need to find some decals to replace what's shedding.
Abom, thnx for the links. I do like your cp overlay. And Crazymodder, I hope to make your subscription worth while. Today I removed all the decals, the wire anchors and resulting adhesive residue. Also removed the speakers and grill. It was far more work than I had anticipated. Also today I realized I'd have to replace the plexiglass (it's cracked), which means having to bend and shape a sheet of plexi to fit the cab. I remember a good page on the subj. somewhere... Should begin sanding tomorrow or Sunday.
I tried sanding some of the rust off the cabinet with a Ryobi, but it wasn't powerful enough. Will try again this weekend. This is a pic of the frame I will be using to shape the cabinet 'window'. At first I thought I'd brace the form flush with slats, then realized it would be easier to drill through the form and brace it with dowels. The dowels are held in place with epoxy. The extra holes are for housing the heating elements. Now I have to research what type of acrylic/plexiglass to use and do some comparison shopping. I'm planning to pick up some custom mixed paint at the hardware store tomorrow.
These are mini cases if I remember correctly? Are you planning on upgrading it when you do the mame, ie jukebox, media center ect? If you need replacement buttons ect try happ controls. looking good!
Thnx! It's a mini, but it's all steel, so it still weighs half-a-ton! The dimensions are 1.6 x 2.6 x 4.2. Cosmetically I intend this project to be more of a restoration than an upgrade. The screen and the window will be better than before, but overall it will look very much the same as a new cabinet. The debate raging in my head right now is whether or not to get replica cp overlays (from mamemarques.com as you've suggested) that look the same as before, or use the authentic Capcom cp overlay that I have, but doesn't look the same as the overlay which came with the cabinet. For controls, I'm going with the J-Stik from ultimarc.com. It will help lend towards the authenticity of the "restoration".
Ahh the j-stick is cool because you can go 4 way or 8 way, good choice. As for the restoration I like that idea. As for the overlays do either one, they used the cabinets over and over and sometimes it would have 4 games in it before it was retired. So it may have had the game you have an overlay for in it at one time. I wouldnt worry about that so much as liking the style of your cp overlay.
funny case mod that, having an arcade machine in your living room, looking forward to seeing how this unfolds
Thnx all. Right now I am leaning towards having a replica CP printed. Unfortunatly, the original which I tore off was inadvertenly thrown away before I had a chance to make a pattern. If anyone can provide me with an exacting pattern for a mini-cute CP overlay, or can direct me towards someone who can, I'd certainly appreciate it. Thnx in advance.
Still looking for a lead on the mini-cute overlay. I also need marquee dimensions. Here's an almost "before" pic of the control panel. Two days previously I had sanded all of that rust off. This time, in addition to sanding, I used a rust removing chemical. Afterwards the metal seemed pitted enough to warrant some bondo work. Here's a pic of the bondo work, post sanding, pre cleaning. This pic is a simply bit of abstract art. "Large Dent, Ensconced" The control panel now has several layers of primer, which hopefully will keep me from having to deal with the reoccuring rust.
061024 Yesterday I took the rear half of my cabinet to be sprayed at a collision shop. Today I got it back. I've mixed feelings about the results. It looks much better than it did of course, but there are some noticeable imperfections. Notably there is the dent and a section (pictured, but difficult to see) that looks as if it didn't rec'v any coverage. Debating about whether or not to send it back. More than anything right now, I'm simply excited about making progress! The front I've done myself (bondo, primer, some paint) and will finish up as soon as we get two days over 50 degrees! Then the re-assembly begins. So to recap,... So far I've gutted it, removed decals and wire anchors, disassembled it, removed rust, done bondo work, primed the front of the cabinet, and have begun painting the front. The rear half I sent off to an auto-body shop along with some custom mixed matching paint. I've built a frame around which I will mold acrylic to replace the cracked window I currently have. Before I can finish, I need info on the following... The dimensions of the large Capcom stickers on the sides The dimensions of the marquee plexi? The kickplate material. Where can I find some? And can anyone provide me with an exacting pattern of the CP overlay? Any info or leads will be greatly appreciated! Thnx!
Slowly but surely? I had ruined one of the stickers previously, and ordered a replacement. I'm still not happy with it. But I don't know if I can bring myself to order another at $35 a piece. On the other hand, I don't know if I can live with the splinter in my brain that is the knowledge of it not being perfect. Anyways, here's the best way that I could envision to apply them by my onesies. I measured the placement precisely and taped it down with electrical tape. With it anchored at the bottom, I began to peel both the top layer and bottom layer away from the sticker itself a little at a time (forgot to remove the top layer previous to anchoring it, but this didn't prove to be the most detrimental issue). Then I adhered the sticker and smoothed it out with my NRA membership card. Once it was anchored securely at the top and I had applied a little less than half of the sticker to the cabinet, I removed the tape from the bottom. I peeled away the backing and the fronting and continued to adhere the sticker whilst smoothing it out. The stickers are the same vinyl used for bumper stickers, and as such have a tendency to stretch and tear. In retrospect I should have been much more concerned with those facts rather than worry about having blisters form. Blisters can easily be rectified by piercing them with a needle and smoothing them out. The tearing and stretching, not so much. Oh well. Here's my ghetto comp built specificly for being hidden away inside the cabinet. When you purchase a $10 case, you have to do things like create support for the power supply with zip-ties. And add a zip tie handle. Later.
to put on stickers the way used by professionals, you spray the surface with soapy water, peel off the backing and place the vinyl on it. you can then move it around and get all the blisters out without stretching and tearing. when it drys, it will be perfect, or as perfect as you decide to make it.
