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Old 26th Oct 2016, 12:48   #181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron C View Post
...But I'm still not getting any stability or adhesion issues with either of those models .
Sure, but is there any advantage to pushing the brimless printing envelope?

See 13eightyfour's post above - he adds brims to all his models and hasn't had a bad print yet.
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Old 26th Oct 2016, 13:02   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yadda View Post
Sure, but is there any advantage to pushing the brimless printing envelope?

See 13eightyfour's post above - he adds brims to all his models and hasn't had a bad print yet.
Yes, but see also:

Quote:
Originally Posted by DAVEtheRAVE View Post
Annoying that it adds post processing to trim them off but makes the world of difference.
If I print a brim every time - even when I don't need it - then that means I've got clean-up work to do after every single print. That's not really a problem on big pieces like this yarn bowl, but when I need lots of bits & pieces then that's going to get pretty old pretty quickly.

It's all a learning process, and each printer is going to have its own quirks. So far I've not had a problem with everything I've printed except for those cable chain links, and I've printed a *lot* of test objects recently (as well as some "proper" prints a while back).
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Old 26th Oct 2016, 13:05   #183
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I like how it looks. Like some sort of composite
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Old 26th Oct 2016, 13:11   #184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron C View Post
Yes, but see also:



If I print a brim every time - even when I don't need it - then that means I've got clean-up work to do after every single print. That's not really a problem on big pieces like this yarn bowl, but when I need lots of bits & pieces then that's going to get pretty old pretty quickly.

It's all a learning process, and each printer is going to have its own quirks. So far I've not had a problem with everything I've printed except for those cable chain links, and I've printed a *lot* of test objects recently (as well as some "proper" prints a while back).
Fair enough, and I agree that brims aren't always necessary. Sometimes they are though, and recognising when they might be (e.g. seeing the difference between the bowl and the boat in this regard) can save a lot of wasted time in the long run. It's just good practice but of course there are no hard & fast rules.
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Old 26th Oct 2016, 13:18   #185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yadda View Post
Fair enough, and I agree that brims aren't always necessary. Sometimes they are though, and recognising when they might be can save a lot of wasted time in the long run. It's just good practice but of course there are no hard & fast rules.
TBH I'd totally forgotten about printing brims; when I first started getting into 3D printing it was one of those things that I learned I will probably only need on rare occasions, like rafts, so I promptly forgot about it. These cable chain links look like one of those rare occasions .
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Old 26th Oct 2016, 13:30   #186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron C View Post
TBH I'd totally forgotten about printing brims; when I first started getting into 3D printing it was one of those things that I learned I will probably only need on rare occasions, like rafts, so I promptly forgot about it. These cable chain links look like one of those rare occasions .
Fair enough. The design lecturer that taught my 3D printing induction session was very keen on them and spent some time showing us examples of when they should be used.
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Old 26th Oct 2016, 14:51   #187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yadda View Post
Fair enough. The design lecturer that taught my 3D printing induction session was very keen on them and spent some time showing us examples of when they should be used.
I totally see the rationale; like I said, it was just something that I'd totally forgotten about in the time since I'd started learning how to use a 3D printer.
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Old 26th Oct 2016, 17:41   #188
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I probably should have added that the brim settings I use aren't connected in any way to the actual print!

The offset is 4mm from the part, and is only used to make sure the bed is level. The quality of the video isn't great but you should get the idea. The column in the second video uses the same brim method and is 21x21x102mm and printed without issues, there are some supports in the lower section as some of the overhangs were a little too much to print without them.

I'm still getting to grips with Octoprint so sorry for the speed/quality!!

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Old 26th Oct 2016, 18:34   #189
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Crikey Eightyfour. From one extreme to the other. Lol.

Edit: isn't a brim that isn't connected to the model called a skirt?
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Old 26th Oct 2016, 18:59   #190
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Originally Posted by Yadda View Post
Crikey Eightyfour. From one extreme to the other. Lol.

Edit: isn't a brim that isn't connected to the model called a skirt?
It probably would be classed as a skirt, but shows in the Skirt/Brim options of Simplify3D so I just class them all as Brims


Edit:


That's the column before any cleanup (Just the lower supports removed) The 'fluting' is a little wobbly but nothing that a decent sanding can't fix.

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Old 26th Oct 2016, 19:04   #191
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Brims trim off easily enough with a good craft knife, but yes they are a pain and so I only do them if I'm concerned about a small contact area.

Quote:
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Isn't a brim that isn't connected to the model called a skirt?
Yup

Edit: beaten to it!
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Old 26th Oct 2016, 19:25   #192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13eightyfour View Post
It probably would be classed as a skirt, but shows in the Skirt/Brim options of Simplify3D so I just class them all as Brims

*Snip*

That's the column before any cleanup (Just the lower supports removed) The 'fluting' is a little wobbly but nothing that a decent sanding can't fix.
Yes, it definitely is a skirt, lol.

I think you've invented a thing - "extreme brimless 3d printing".


Edit to add:

I'm getting to grips with Fusion360 and I'm well on the way to producing a virtual model of my prototype, to scale. It's a lot easier than I imagined it would be and I'm really enjoying it. I'm currently researching the best way to create a reverse/inverted fillet to a specified arc. So-far the best way seems to be to draw a circle to the necessary radius, position it, and trim the excess. All good fun and just a bit amazing.
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Old 26th Oct 2016, 19:44   #193
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Printing with a skirt is definitely a good idea, as it builds the correct pressure in the extruder and gets the filament flowing properly before the print starts.

In other news: this finished



The surface pattern was a total error on the part of the designer, but I quite like the look. Doesn't look anywhere near big enough to fit a ball of wool into but the other half hasn't even tried using it yet. More importantly it's the biggest/longest print that I've ever done and I'm really happy with the results - there are none of the problems that I used to get in my prints. Calibrate your extruder, people!

Next task: get Cura working, copy the settings over from Slic3r, hope I get the same good results from Cura as I currently do with Slic3r, then get OctoPi/OctoPrint running on a Raspberry Pi. Of course I can't use a recent version of Cura to do this of course, that would be too easy: the version of CuraEngine shipping on OctoPrint doesn't support the JSON settings format from newer versions of Cura, only the older INI format.
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Old 26th Oct 2016, 19:52   #194
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Aye. Skirts, brims, rafts. They're there for a reason and all have their place.

The wool holder's looking good! Nice one.
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Old 27th Oct 2016, 00:27   #195
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Here it is, my first Fusion 360/3d printing scratch design, rendered in all its glory.

I'll get it printed on Friday when I'm next at the college-of-knowledge.

What a fantastic tool Fusion 360 is, I can't wait to get this made and give it a try!

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Old 27th Oct 2016, 12:04   #196
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It seems I take two steps forward and then one back...



That's the brim being pulled up off the bed...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yadda View Post
Here it is, my first Fusion 360/3d printing scratch design, rendered in all its glory.

I'll get it printed on Friday when I'm next at the college-of-knowledge.

What a fantastic tool Fusion 360 is, I can't wait to get this made and give it a try!
Nice!
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Old 27th Oct 2016, 12:17   #197
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Whats your bed made of?

I really swear by glass with hair spray. I just simply do not get any lift with PLA.

My printer is an Ormerod 2 with PCB heated bed, Aluminium heat spreader and then a sheet of glass.
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Old 27th Oct 2016, 12:22   #198
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Whats your bed made of?

I really swear by glass with hair spray. I just simply do not get any lift with PLA.

My printer is an Ormerod 2 with PCB heated bed, Aluminium heat spreader and then a sheet of glass.
It's an aluminium bed lined with masking tape. The only time I ever get lifting problems is with these damn chain links.
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Old 27th Oct 2016, 12:33   #199
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Possibly a daft question but are the chain links flat against the bed in the slicer?
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Old 27th Oct 2016, 12:43   #200
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Possibly a daft question but are the chain links flat against the bed in the slicer?
Not a daft question at all

Yes they are, but on closer examination I did notice this:



A very slight fillet to the bottom edge. That can't be helping matters... I've just flipped the model 180 along the X axis, so the flat "top" layer is now against the bed. Let's see how this goes now...
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