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Case Mod - In Progress Nightglow (NZXT Phantom mod)

Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by Nightglow, 15 Apr 2013.

  1. Nightglow

    Nightglow What's a Dremel?

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    Greetings!

    So after accidentally destroying my old case (a lightly modified Bitfenix Shinobi my wife accidentally knocked off the desk), I decided it was time to take on a somewhat more ambitious project than cutting a case window and some shiny paint. I wanted to build a case I could really call my own, something I would not be shy or ashamed to show off. I spent about a week looking at what other modders are doing with their cases. There is some absolutely stunning work out there, but I couldn't help feeling like there was an awful lot of awesome, wicked, lunatic builds that simply do not appeal to me. I wanted something not quite so bombastic... something a more refined.
    I am inspired by the patterns in PCBs. straight and obtusely angled parallel lines that create subtly complex patterns, and intend to create a case that reflects this throughout. With this theme in mind, I found the NZXT Phantom and instantly chose it for this project. The gentle curves and odd lines make modification somewhat interesting... I'm sure I'll have fun with it.

    I'm starting out here with the all-black NZXT Phantom. ( more pics than are really necessary ) This case will be trimmed in either electric blue or amber, with white accents. This case does not come stock with a midplate, so I will be fabricating my own. Further, as I just don't like the giant mesh screens all over the case, I will be replacing many of those with sheet metal of some variety. For the sake of air flow, the bezels will then be vented on the sides (similar to the Fractal R4). One final note: At least for a while, this case will most likely be air cooled. I would LOVE to watercool this rig, but I simply do not have the cash to drop on a res, pump, fittings, rad, etc. That being said, I will attempt to keep watercooling in mind as I build this, in the event of future expansion.

    The next post will detail the beginning of the build log proper.
     
  2. Nightglow

    Nightglow What's a Dremel?

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    Update 1 - HDD cage and Prototyping pt 1

    UPDATE

    So first things first... remove the extra HDD bays. Having just completed a file server for home use, I have no need for 7 drive bays. The Optical bays will remain for the time being, if for no other reason than a place to mount the mid plate (more on that later)
    The remaining 2 bay HDD cage was inverted and attached to the underside of the 5.25" drive cage via a few rivets. For those of you who have never used rivets before, keep a file handy and be extra vigilant marking your holes. Mine were off by about 1/16" or so. This doesn't sound like much, but it means the difference between "square and flush" and "nothing fits anything else anymore!" Nothing some quality time with a round file can't fix, but still... probably better to be very careful than botch it like I did this time around.
    [​IMG]
    A closer look at the HDD cage
    [​IMG]

    Worth noting, all of the mesh pieces are angled at 42 degrees. The difference is subtle, but the result on the case is a look that is less engineered and more like a hot-rod. It then makes sense, if NZXT made a deliberate design decision like that, to take their design cue and run with it. First piece is the prototype of the midplate. For the final pieces I'll be having a machine shop do the cuts in the sheet metal to ensure they are as precise and clean as they can be.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The angled section of the midplate will house a fan to provide intake air to the main cavity of the case. The flat portion over the power supply will be an illuminated panel with circuitry inspired patterns.

    I then moved on to the front bezel to create another prototype. The design cut into the front will also be backlit.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I would like to mention a few things I learned while fabricating the above pieces:
    1) whether you are using a jigsaw or a Dremel, GO SLOW. Don't worry if your cut doesn't look like you think it will; unless you're using specialized equipment or jigs for your cuts, imperfections are going to show. These imperfections are only magnified if you rush it. Better to take forever than to mess up a critical cut

    2) Heavy cardstock (sometimes sold as posterboard), a sharp hobby knife, and masking tape make WONDERFUL tools for fabrication. If you don't know how something is going to look or come together, make it out of the posterboard and try it first before committing yourself to a hunk of steel and trying to figure it out from there.

    Next update I should have the metal prototype done for the roof mesh replacement and midplate mockup done so I can begin fabricating brackets for the Acrylic / LEDs

    -Nightglow
     
    Last edited: 15 Apr 2013
  3. k.3nny

    k.3nny Minimodder

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    Nice looking forward to see this :D!
     
  4. Nightglow

    Nightglow What's a Dremel?

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    Sorry about the wait between updates... I had originally planned an update for tonight, but the angled midplate is giving me fits at the moment. I'm working on a prototype at the moment, will post an update as soon as I have the midplate prototype ready to go. Thanks for your patience.
     
  5. Nightglow

    Nightglow What's a Dremel?

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    Quick render before I go to bed. Here's how I want to fabricate this...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The below is an exploded image showing how the parts would come together. The PSU sits underneath the illumated piece, with the vertical portion toward the side panel. I will update eventually when I have the pieces fabricated.
     
  6. Nightglow

    Nightglow What's a Dremel?

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    UPDATE!

    So first off, I have to offer up some major THANKS! to the Dallas Makerspace, a local community of hackers, builders, and makers. Their collective knowledge and expertise has been most welcome. Most importantly, they have the tools I would not have otherwise had access to that will make this build go quicker and MUCH more smoothly. Hackerspaces are popping up in most major cities in the US (can't speak for Europe, but I'm sure they're around). Find them, join them, make stuff. :)

    So first order of business, I hopped on the laser cutter and started with the tray that will house the illumination for the midplate.
    [​IMG]

    There is only about a 1/2 inch or so of clearance between the expansion slot covers in the rear of the case and the PSU, so every millimeter I can get is a good thing. This mock-up is done in 1/8" acrylic, but I could probably go to 1/16 if I made it with more fingers in the box. As it is, it's a perfectly functional prototype.
    The downside is that since I don't have much in the way of clearance I will probably have to solder in the LEDs manually instead of picking up a strip, as most strips will likely still be too wide.

    Having cut the tray, I mocked up and cut the shroud. This is unfinished aluminum, which I will either have anodized, or will coat with 3M carbon fiber Di-Noc.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Lastly, I went ahead and cut a quick test piece for the replacement for the roof mesh:
    [​IMG]
    This piece unfortunately doesn't quite fit so I'll have to do it again. Also, the Dremel doesn't make the cut as wide as I want it, but it's too narrow to fit even a small file into without just a ton of work. If anyone has any suggestions on how to widen a dremel slot cut in sheet metal, please let me know.

    Next up, I'll be tackling the side panel to do something about the mesh over there. Stay tuned!
     
  7. KayinBlack

    KayinBlack Unrepentant Savage

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    Take a sanding belt, pass it through the hole, and pass it back and forth with your hands. It should clean the edges just fine. I clean mine up with the Dremel, but I've been doing this for a long, long time.
     
  8. Nightglow

    Nightglow What's a Dremel?

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    UPDATE!

    So after many many fits with design and problems with fabrication, the illuminated portions of the case are finished! Unfortunately, I've lost the pics I took during fabrication, but I promise the rest of the pics are worth it!

    So here's the problem I had... In the Phantom, the PSU is raised up from the floor by 4 rubber standoffs, elevating the PSU from the floor by about half an inch. There is a small plate bent from the mobo tray to serve as a sort of stop for the PSU, stabilizing it somewhat more than the screws in the rear of the case might. This puts the top of the PSU just shy of half an inch from the indention into the case body made by the lowest PCI slot cover. This means I have absolutely zero clearance to work with, and thus my margin for error in this portion of the case is very slim. Even minor mistakes (and there were a couple) are magnified, and make it impossible to fit anything in. As it stands, the aluminum portion of the midplate stands about a quarter inch too high. Easily repaired, but I haven't been back to the shop to fix it yet.
    Anyway, time for pics!

    [​IMG]
    Above are the pieces I had watercut. I had two sets done, on the off-chance I screw something up in fabrication. The middle portion is the actual midplate. The cuts look absolutely stunning up close.

    [​IMG]
    I found some very narrow LED strips locally at LED City (http://www.ledcityusa.com/). They're not a sponsor, but they are local. They used to be located right on the interstate frontage road in Dallas, then construction happened. The frontage road is now a drainage ditch, and business has dropped off dramatically. If you're in the market, their selection is phenomenal, and they ship all over. Shoot them an email.
    At any rate, I had worried about finding a strip that would fit in such close quarters, but these do the job nicely. They're not the brightest LEDs in the world, but for such a small job they do the trick just fine. Moreover, the strip is a mere 5mm wide (3/8" for those of us in the states). The housing is simple laser-cut mirrored acrylic, finger-jointed together to create a simple frame.

    [​IMG]]

    The diffuse surface is 1/4" acrylic that has been sanded down. A heavy grit (100 grit or so) is needed to adequately scuff the surface. The idea is to frustrate the internal reflection of the light so as to direct it toward the colored layer. When fully assembled, it looks like this:

    [​IMG]

    And with the cut portions added:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The bit for the top mesh will need to be re-cut, as I measured it wrong... the acute angle is a tad too sharp. Once completed, these aluminum bits will get some sandpaper treatment to give them a brushed look, and then off to the anodizer to make them black.
    Also about to order some sleeving from Nils. I'm SO stoked about this purchase... I can't even tell you. I've never sleeved a PSU before, but I've heard nothing but rave reviews about MDPC, I'm sure it will be stellar. Also on the list, the case door is getting a similar treatment the mesh did as far as the patterned cut goes. That may be a couple of weeks before I can show that off though... I want it to be absolutely perfect, but I only get one shot at it.

    Thanks SO MUCH to all of you who have subscribed to this build log. I'm really honored that so many so far think what I'm doing here is good enough to follow closely. Stay tuned for more!
     
  9. Axoxenon

    Axoxenon Do it right the first time

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    Really like the glow there!
    And good luck on sleeving your PSU. I think I put like 2-3 days doing mine (with cutting, shortening and resolder all wires thou)
    But, just let it take its time.. It sucks doing the same work twice because of sloppiness :p
     
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