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Modding Strongest epoxy I can get?

Discussion in 'Modding' started by Ubernewb, 23 Nov 2014.

  1. Ubernewb

    Ubernewb What's a Dremel?

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    I'm having trouble finding that go-to epoxy. Since JB weld is apparently not as strong as I'm told and won't hold up through the vibrations for certain parts on my case...

    I've discovered this.
    http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp?pn=EPX1&cn=4&bhcd2=1257712462

    I read that a few people have used that in various environments. But, I'm curious to see what you guys would suggest that is beyond JB weld.
     
  2. asura

    asura jack of all trades

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    I usually use Devcon's 2Ton epoxy - if you need something tougher than that, their 250 is the bomb.
     
  3. Ubernewb

    Ubernewb What's a Dremel?

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    I'm surprised nobody mentioned any of the heat activated epoxy. Are they not all that great?
    I've read mixed reviews about Devcon's epoxy. I'll give it a try though.
     
  4. asura

    asura jack of all trades

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    Once initially cured the 250 reaches maximum strength through heating... I can't remember how much or for how long though...
     
  5. Ubernewb

    Ubernewb What's a Dremel?

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    Which 250 exactly? I saw one on amazon that was an HP250 and some other one. The one was $89, lol.
    There was little details on the amazon page.

    http://www.devcon.com/info/search_results.cfm

    There's quite a few results on their website as well.
     
  6. asura

    asura jack of all trades

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    Yea, the HP250 - datasheet.

    But it's totally overkill for any case application, I only mentioned it a bit tongue-in-cheek. The "2 ton" really does what it says, better than 2 tons per square inch* and should be more than adequate for your needs.

    *if you follow all their instructions to the letter
     
  7. Ubernewb

    Ubernewb What's a Dremel?

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    I'll put it to the test. I tried the JB weld Clearweld and it failed miserably so. I ordered a few things of the 2-ton. Also, I did find a few hardware stores that have it!
    I'm thinking about ordering that 250 for "those" moments.
     
  8. Burnout21

    Burnout21 Mmmm biscuits

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    pffffft "2 ton"

    If I want it bonded, I'll use either Araldite 420 or Lord 406-17

    "Devcon" Adhesive Tensile Lap Shear 2,250 psi
    "Lord 406-17" Tensile Lap shear 4,650 psi

    Of course I do work for a company that gives me ready access to aerospace grade adhesives.. rofl!
     
  9. Cthippo

    Cthippo Can't mod my way out of a paper bag

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    I personally like 3M 5200 for applications where it needs to never ever come apart. It's a 1 part adhesive that takes a week to dry, but once it does it remains a little bit flexible, but is otherwise totally indestructible.
     
  10. lysaer

    lysaer Suck my unit! Kirk lazarus (2008)

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    You could use a chemical bonding agent like chemifix
     
  11. Ubernewb

    Ubernewb What's a Dremel?

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    I don't think the tensile strength is going to be all that important in this case. I say this as the JB wield clear wield is at 4400 psi and it peeled right off.

    or is Tensile lap shear different from this?

    Anyways, I did manage to get this to stay put with some rivets on some parts that don't have good surface area for the epoxy.
     
  12. LennyRhys

    LennyRhys Fan Fan

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    Without a doubt the strongest stuff you can get is Acraglas - it's used for bedding rifle barrels and has a very long shelf life.

    If you're going to use epoxy and are having problems with it peeling off, your surfaces aren't properly prepped. There can't be anything on the surface, including oils from your fingers, and it needs to be rough a little so that the epoxy can adhere. Wipe surfaces with acetone before applying epoxy.

    I assume you're in the US in which case you should easily be able to get hold of Acraglas... not so for us in UK/Europe.
     
  13. Burnout21

    Burnout21 Mmmm biscuits

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    Mostly agree with all of the above, the area to be bonded needs to be free of contaminants.

    The surface area can be increased by a small amount with a good "key", but a good "key" is done once the ideal bond surface area has be achieved. Consider a "keying" of the surface as a margin of safety.
     

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