Ok so I bought a TFC Feser 1/4" Variable BSPP Variable SLI VGA from Scan to link two 480's. Tried it out tonight, but to be honest, I'm too scared to use it. Unless I'm doing something wrong, the bridge just slides in and out of the 1/4" fittings with ease! As in, its not tight at all. It says it has two O-Rings but its just hard to imagine that it will actually not spray water everywhere. I've just got images of water pouring out all over the bottom card and me having a meltdown! Please see below Untitled by Penderyn, on Flickr Untitled by Penderyn, on Flickr Has anyone used these before? Can anyone reassure me that this won't turn my carefully made WC loop into a UV geyser?
I had the old ones that were basically just a tiny piece of pipe that you stuck inbetween the blocks and that was all. They didn't even thread into the blocks... and those worked fine. If in doubt run the pump with system off. If it leaks you only have to clean up mess and wait to dry.
I've used that version and only changed them out because I didn't like the looks. However mine didn't slide easily and I felt confident with them in. Have you checked that the 2 internal o rings in each side are in place? I lubricated mine internally with a tiny amount of silicone grease mainly to provide protection for the o rings.
This should be done as a matter of course anyway. Unless you want to run the risk of no liquid pumping through your cooling apparatus! I broke my water cooling cherry recently and I've really learnt a great deal from the experience. My water pump started leaking water. The application of silicon grease around the large o-ring between pump and plexi-top put pay to that problem. You'll find lots of these little problems when constructing a water cooled rig.
Its like what i use. You shouldn't have any issues isn't not 1000psi of pressure were putting in there Got a picture of it on my "pics"
The SLI bridge will feel like it slides around in the block. This is perfectly normal as the O ring is what makes it water tight. I use these fittings aswell and although I know it doesn't seem right, you have nothing to worry about.
Ah! Thanks for all the replies guys. You've really put my mind at ease! I'm going to do a test session today without the power on to make sure. Brave - checked out your pics, thanks for that! Also, I've decided to use deionized water instead of UV coolant. Is there anything (apart from a debatably useful silver coil) that I have to add to it?
Na mate just go with the silver coil, or a silver ring as i'm using. with out it you will have algae in your loop with in weeks (found that out the hard way)
Just do a leak test with the pump and fans running etc and no power on the motherboard. If after 12/24 hours everything is fine, hook everything up again
I did a full system leak test yesterday but only for about 30m - should put everything together and do it for 12 hours as well? Also, how do you guys start the Pump with no power going to the motherboard? I had to link it up to a mini ITX system to get it to start. Finally, how loud are your pumps guys? Mine was very loud to start with (presumable with air etc going through it, but then quietened down. I could still hear a hum though. I might use the BigNg to slow it down.
you need to disconnect the 24-pin power and the 8 pin power from your motherboard, and probs from anything else (i sometimes dont becuase im lazy, but not recomended) then you need to "jump start" your psu. you do this by shorting the green cable in the 24-pin with any of the black cables (most people use the one next to it) - off the top of my head, i believe this is pins 14 + 15 but i wouldnt quote me on that. This will make the psu start, and anything you have plugged into it will start too. make sure you disconnect the cpu power as sometimes that can bugger your board.
Ah nice guys! Cheers for the links! Time to get the paperclips out! How about the Pump issue - can you guys hear yours? I've heard reports they should be almost silent?
Your pump should not be audible. If it is humming, then the chances are it's not mounted firmly enough. If it's making a "whooshing" sound then you probably still have air in your loop.
There is a more elegant solution. Plenty of water cooling shops stock an adapter that you plug straight into the 24-pin so the PSU will turn on whilst not linked to the motherboard. I have a phobya adapter as pictured below...
Plenty of water coolers also dont use them Hehe, that requires spending money and waiting. (though i do have one, but its a home made jobbie) Pumps - none of mine are really audible, have ddc and d5 both of which I can not hear over fans etc.
Ah cool ok! Well in fairness, because I was just leak testing outside of the case, it wasn't secured at all, thats probably why it was whirring somewhat! I've purchased a Shoggy sandwich in any case just to make sure that vibrational noise doesn't get through to the case.
