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Old 10th Mar 2016, 12:56   #1
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Cooler Master "Mastercase Racing" 5 / Pro Custom PC, Updated 2/16/16, Mech Keyboard





Finally, I get to build something for myself The opportunity presented itself after Cooler Master sent me their new Mastercase 5 ($109.99) to evaluate and brainstorm retail accessories / bolt-on custom parts as part of their "Make it Yours" campaign. The Mastercase Pro is the same chassis as mastercase 5, but includes window panel and top cover for $139.99. If I kept waiting for personal time to build a PC for myself, it would have never happened due to lack of free time. I have to admit, I didn't like the Mastercase at first. I captured my mod zoo staff/friends https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDuYZH0MZPM unbox Mastercase 5 / Pro in my VLOG. I feel Cooler Master missed a lot of details that could have made the case even better. Especially since CM marketed it as "modular" and designed for DIY liquid cooling. It falls 40% from it's marketing pitch, but the overall build quality and finish is outstanding and eventually won me over after dismantling and re-assembling the case. Here is my final thoughts about the Mastercase

Corsair DDR Heat Spreader Take Apart and paint Guide



Cooler Master Mastercase 5 / Pro thoughts

RAVES:

Overall Build Quality, Fit & finish.

Top panel / cover design options are nice.

Modular HD/SSD tray design and mounting options are best to date.

240/360/280 radiator option for front is nice.

My suggestions REVISIONS:

Top radiator mounting location should be offset, to clear DDR slots on some motherboards*

100% Riveted chassis?! I understand using rivets over screws to save time in manufacturing, but at minimum, the mid section floor should be removable for better access.*

Lack of Water pump and reservoir mounting. CM's competitors started embracing DIY cooling market over year ago, by including mounting options for reservoirs and water pumps.

Mastercase 5/ Pro window panel is very flimsy. The "smoked" poly window is bluish/purple and has very poor clarity for viewing inside the case.

Just a small update as my free time to work on this is getting more scarce. I've been bending the tubing and learning the ways of the Stainless Jedi. I love the look of stainless steel. It echos the fuel and brake lines on race cars, but has it's own learning curve. In retrospect, the scale of PC chassis is just too small for the 1-1/2" bends you get with the SS bending mandrels I've found.. Suppose I could go thicker wall and make custom mandrel, but I'll try 3/8" OD instead of 1/2" OD next time.

Specs: Stainless T-304/304L, Seamless Tube, 0.5" x 0.035" x 0.43"











Inspiration for the custom painted exterior will be the 1970 Porsche 917 from Steve McQueen's "Le Mans" movie. His 917 from the movie was chassis #022 and purchased in 1970 from Porsche by Steve McQueen's movie production company, Solar Productions. It was also the company that would bring the movie "Le Mans" to the big screen. This is the car that McQueen's character, Michael Delaney, starts the race in, and "crashes" late in the race, "writing the car off." The car that was crashed was really a Lola T-70, painted and rebodied, to look like a 917. Many innovations in cinematography, were first tried in this movie. They even went so far, as to weld brackets to the front frame work of the 917, so they could mount a camera to shoot Steve, and the other drivers, in the cockpit.



I'll replacing the Mastercase 5 steel side panel with this clear side panel window, http://mnpctech.com/cooler-master-mastercase/



I'll replacing the Mastercase top grill panel with this clear "moon roof" style top window, http://mnpctech.com/cooler-master-ma...nel-clear.html



Cooler Master Mastercase 5 Chassis assembled with final coat of Gulf Racing Blue paint from 1970 Porsche 917 race car



Porsche 917 inspired graphics are finished by Brad Galvin on the Cooler Master Mastercase 5 / Pro. Next stage is clear coating everything.



EK Radiator fins were masked off.


Milling billet cable combs for the 24 pin ATX cable













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Old 10th Mar 2016, 17:36   #2
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Eh? You had another project?
Cool.
That pic of Steve flashing the two fingered salute, though.. Bit might take that personal.
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Old 11th Mar 2016, 19:17   #3
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@cheaps, I thought Steve was ordering two Beers?

Parts laid out with final clear coat. Time to pop rivet!













Black Powdercoated 1/8" Pop Rivets, http://mnpctech.com/pc-mod-tools/pc-pop-rivets/





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Old 12th Mar 2016, 15:59   #4
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GULF RACING theme Cooler Mastercase 6 / Pro Chassis assembled and ready for mounting EK XTX 360 radiator next.







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Old 12th Mar 2016, 17:54   #5
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That is a lovely looking mod. I've been waiting to see some good ones on the Mastercase.
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Old 14th Mar 2016, 14:19   #6
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@meandmymouth, Thank you for watching and commenting

The fans I'm using in this Cooler Master Mastercase 5 / Pro case mod are 120mm PROLIMATECH Ultra Sleek Vortex. Here is their product page, http://www.prolimatech.com/en/produc...il.asp?id=2722

This is 2nd time I've used these fans in custom build and love them. They're 15mm thick, so they can help you save space. Especially when mounting a radiator in the top panel which can block space to accessing DDR slots. I've painted the fan blades on these fans "GULF orange" to match our color theme.

By request last year I created this DIY video guide to painting PC cooling fans,



I understand the thought of painting the blades on PC fans will raise concern with some people. I've done it on misc commissioned and personal builds for over decade and have yet to see any of those painted fans fail. I refrain from applying heavy coats which could throw off the balance of the blades, causing the fan bearings prematurely.



You can remove the fan blade hub by using a flat head screw driver to pop off the white retaining ring.



Next step is prepping the surface of the blades for primer base coat before we can apply the color coat.







The blades were topped off with gloss enamel clear coat.
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Old 14th Mar 2016, 15:32   #7
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Looking great already Bill, I always love the Gulf theme.
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Old 14th Mar 2016, 15:48   #8
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Blue and Orange.
Classic race paint.
Win.

Not digging the fans tho,they are like being coughed on by an asthmatic mouse.
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Old 15th Mar 2016, 12:50   #9
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Thanks for watching guys! I know my choice of fans are controversial, but nothing in my personal builds is ever permanent. For anyone who either already owns or considering buying the Cooler Master Mastercase 5 / Pro, and also DIY liquid cools, you may have pondered about the maximum radiator thickness allowed? Mounting a radiator inside the chassis you're only limited by how much you're willing to enlarge the factory radiator cut-out. I prefer to buy more internal space and mount my radiator between the chassis and the front bezel, I've outfitted mine with EK's XTX 360 that measures 64mm thick, but not without two compromises. You'll need to create a custom front grill for the bezel, as factory one will no longer fit. You also need trim the backside of the upper horizontal brace under the 5.25 bay location.

Dimensions (LxWxH): 400x130x64mm
Weight: Approx. 1496g
Liquid Capacity: Approx. 510 ml (17,25 fl oz)
FPI: 11
Fan installation: 12 x M3 threads on both sides each (for 3x120mm fan each)
Pressure tested: 1bar









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Old 15th Mar 2016, 13:44   #10
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Old 16th Mar 2016, 15:25   #11
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Thank you hodge, and Tapatalk is a great app for the forums!

The XTX radiator will utilize three Nidec-Servo Scythe Gentle Typhoons (Model# D122C). This fan has been regarded as the best static pressure optimized fan by DIY PC community since it's release in 2008. The original D122C is no longer made, but there is limited stock available at some online retailers. Last year the D122C Scythe GT fan was resurrected and manufactured as "Darkside Black Edition" by Dazmode. It's the same specs as the original, but now has Black fan blades. Many PC Modders including myself have painted these fans to fit the color schemes of our custom PC builds. I've been asked several times over the years how to remove the c-clip without losing or breaking it? Like many others, I've also lost these tiny c-clips while learning the best technique for removal. This is my DIY guide to removing and installing external retaining ring or c-clip.

Nidec-Servo's Scythe Gentle Typhoon Factory Spec PDF link, http://www.nidec-servo.com/en/digital/pdf/D1225C.pdf*
Speed: *2150RPM
Air performance : 68.8CFM
Nose: 34db (25cm from the fan, free air)
Power: 12VDC, 0.123A (0.63A peak max)
Operational voltage range: 5-12V (~900rpm-2150rpm)
Bearing: Ball
Expected life: 100000h/35c or 55000h/60c
Appearance: Full black
Dimensions: *119 x 119 x 25 mm / 4.68 x 4.68 x 0.98 in


WARNING:

Perform this task with Safety Glasses, the tiny Black metal retaining ring (c-clip) can and likely will pop off, so perform this task in a clean workspace, so you can find it. I suggest doing the work on a large white bed sheet and holding a large magnet near the fan hub as you remove and re-install the c-clip, to increase you're chances of not losing the c-clip. I haven't found a source for ordering replacement c-clips yet, but I'm still searching.




Here is my suggested Tools & Supplies

Safety Glasses (not pictured)
Heat Gun for removing the fan label. Hair Dryer on HIGH setting will work as well.
10" Wire Cable Tie
Large magnet (not pictured)
External Fixed-Tip Retaining Ring Pliers
Tweezers
Needle Nose Pliers
Super Glue (not pictured)





External Fixed-Tip Retaining Ring Pliers, http://www.saeproducts.com/retaining-ring-tool.html



The fan blade looks as if it would snap-on and off, but not the case.



We need to remove the back label to access the external metal c-clip on the fan shaft.



Swipe heat gun or hair dryer back and forth over the label.



Use the Tweezer to peel off the fan label.



Stick the fan label on a clean metal surface while you perform your work.



You will tie down the fan hub with this Twisty tie. The fan shaft has a retention spring inside. You need to compress this spring, so you can remove the metal c-clip. If you don't, it's almost a guarantee that the c-clip will fly off the shaft faster than a bullet.



Using Twisty tie to compress the fan hub spring, by tying down the hub to the fan frame.
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Old 16th Mar 2016, 15:26   #12
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Close ups of the Black metal c-clip inside the Scythe Gentle Typhoon.





Insert the two prongs of the Retaining Ring Plier inside the jaw of the c-clip.



If you have a large Magnet, Position it near the fan hub, just in case the c-clip pops off.





C-clip Retainer Ring Plier, http://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming...ers-clone.html



Holding the black metal c-clip in the Retaining Ring Plier.



You will widen the jaw of the c-clip and need to bend it back to it's original opening, so it maintains it's grip.



Hold the c-clip in the Tweezer while using a Needle Nose Plier to compress jaw of the c-clip.



Doing this will allow you to re-use the metal c-clip.



Here is the Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm Cooling fan dismantled. Next stage is painting the fans GULF Blue & Orange, or just one color? I haven't decided yet
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Old 17th Mar 2016, 01:36   #13
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This looks great Bill.
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Old 17th Mar 2016, 07:25   #14
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Looks awesome as per usual
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Old 19th Mar 2016, 13:47   #15
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Thank you guys! I debated about which color to paint the Scythe GTs for EK's 360 XTX Radiator. Decided to leave the fan blade hubs their factory grey and paint the frames GULF Blue, which works together and helps break up all of the orange.



Primer Coat application not pictured





Clear coat applied

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Old 19th Mar 2016, 14:15   #16
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love the colors in this thing. Very nice paint job mate im very impressed
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Old 21st Mar 2016, 14:34   #17
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@stephen, Thank you for watching and commenting!

Re-assembled the GTs yesterday with these replacement C-clip Retainer Rings that fit Gentle Typhoon fan axels, http://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming...rs-clone.html 







I use two micro flat head screw drivers to snap the c-clip over the fan motor axle / shaft

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Old 22nd Mar 2016, 12:27   #18
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EK's 360mm XTX radiator has convenient port on bottom for draining your loop. I'm using a Koolance Drain Valve with two of their swiveling 90 degree "snake" extensions.(Bitspower also makes a nice drain valve)



Koolance Drain valve (4 way Splitter won't be used in this build)



I'm using two of these Koolance swiveling 90 degree "snake" extensions. The others were used in Origin PC build, http://mnpctech.com/genesis-the-evol...ull-tower.html





The two swiveling 90 degree "snake" extensions allow you to angle the drain valve under the Mastercase bezel and foot.



Having the drain valve outside of the chassis makes periodic maintenance of draining and refilling the liquid loop easy.

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Old 23rd Mar 2016, 17:27   #19
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Only had few minutes yesterday to work on my build. Decided on Black wire fan grills for the GTs. I like the look. I guess some would call them "old school" when compared to vast array of fan grills available today, btw All of the machined aluminum parts for Deep Silver's Homefront: Revolution Gaming PC are getting finished, so I'm dividing workshop time between both builds. What a contrast lol, from "don't scratch the paint!" on "what is the best grit to score this finish"on Homefront.

I also swapped out the Black factory thumbscrews for Mastercase SSD trays to machined knurled silver aluminum.







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Old 24th Mar 2016, 15:11   #20
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This looks awsome !!

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