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Old 3rd Jun 2007, 22:52   #1
Cheapskate
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Temporary name: Bloo Balls --6-29-'11 Bloo 2.0 refit COMPLETED page 47

Edit: Many thanks to Danger Den for their support of this project!

-----------------
I should drop a link to the version one final page >here<.
-----------------



I'm starting a new project. I really don't have enough progress made to post this as a project log. Most of this post will be hot air...
-But I'd like to discuss what I've got planned so that I can get much needed help and feedback.
1st - The rough concept...(This render was made just to check the colors, the final rig will not look this cludgy.)

-I plan to use 1/4" dark blue and florescent red plexi. I have already purchased the red 2" OD tubing from Tap Plastics.
-The orb in the top front of the case is the on switch. I plan on using a marble that will fit just inside the 2" tube.
-The blue frontplate will act as a fan shroud.
-eventually I plan to build my first watercooling loop out of mostly copper pipe. (This is where most of the feedback will be needed.) The idea is to avoid hose kinking by only having short lengths of vinyl tubing at the pump and heatsink plate. I will also polish and lacquer all copper.
I am even so crazy as to plan to build my own waterblock. For this I have saved...

It's an old 1 1/4" thick copymachine window. I think it will be hard to crack a coverplate THAT thick...
I would also like the loop to be zero pressure. -by using an open to the air condensation loop, (like you see on a still, YEE-HAW!)
more after lunch...

Last edited by Cheapskate; 17th Oct 2012 at 00:11.
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Old 3rd Jun 2007, 23:23   #2
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i like the design if you can pull it off it should be awesome!
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Old 4th Jun 2007, 00:05   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x06jsp
i like the design if you can pull it off it should be awesome!
Thanks! The only part I'm not sure of yet is the plastic bending. Eventually I will put clear cast accents on the outside.

Stage 2: Collecting junk and experiments...

I want to make a slide-lock rig for the hardrives. This is a test rig I made out of Lexan. The last image is a bit of vinyl tubing that I Dyed using Rit fabric dye. It worked suprisingly well, but I'm having a hard time finding flourescent red dye...

I ended up with this design for the drive locks. Laser cuting this is my best option, but the quote I got from Emacineshop was over $400 US!!!
To cut up $30 of lexan??? I think I will be calling around for cutting services.

Next I wanted to see if i could cut my frame rails with my wetsaw...

EEwww! BAD idea. I guess a hacksaw is still the best bet...

Next I wanted to see if I could polish up the aluminum angle. This is the first time I actually PURCHASED this stuff, so it was fairly clean. (This kind of stuff frequently shows up at renthouse cleanups...) I sanded the bottom piece down with 400 grit, then 600, then finally with DuPont Polishing Compound.

I may need to break down and buy some more sandpaper...-But hey! It was free too!

At the end of the day, all I have is a pile of junk and a bunch of packages lost in transit. Not exactly a spectacular start.

Last edited by Cheapskate; 21st Jul 2007 at 07:52.
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Old 4th Jun 2007, 00:17   #4
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to bend it just fabricate a jig in the shap of the curve heat up the acrylic and leave!
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Old 4th Jun 2007, 00:17   #5
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whats with the ball of wires?
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Old 4th Jun 2007, 00:31   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saltynay
whats with the ball of wires?
Yeah... I gutted a few antique VCRs for the 26awg wiring, switches, and M3 screws... (What's my name?)
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Old 4th Jun 2007, 00:48   #7
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but why do you need wires from vcr's??? all the actual components come with there own you only need wires for led's
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Old 4th Jun 2007, 01:07   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saltynay
but why do you need wires from vcr's??? all the actual components come with there own you only need wires for led's
Part of what's missing in action are 2 big orders for LED's and resistors. -Also, I'm building from scratch here. I will need wire for switches and re-routing stuff.
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Old 14th Jun 2007, 05:10   #9
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June 13th Update...

I'm still waiting on parts, but I finished fitting and polishing the bottom frame box...

I've been looking into doing an experimental cooling loop on the side, just so I can work out the bugs before building an expensive loop. I have an old 500mhz in the garage that I can butcher.
-Of course, I don't want to spend any money on it sooooo......

Yes, it's a dead lawn mower engine...
I thought the aluminum fins would help with cooling. Inside the Piston cylinder is an old Whisper 500 aquarium pump.

It gets worse. For a cpu water block I have this...

How ghetto can I get? The piston head fits 5/8ths tubing perfectly.

Here I filled in the oil holes with JB Weld.

AAANNNNDDD I made a baffle/lid from scrap plexiglas.

That's all I have for today. Delvie's sent me a shipping notice, so I should have plastic by Friday!
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Old 14th Jun 2007, 08:02   #10
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i`m going out a limb here and saying that your cpu water block will not work (if it looks like what i think it looks like , ie piece of tube going through the piston)

A. the plastic tubing will not conduct heat well
B. the pistol will not conduct heat well
C. the water has a very short path so even it A and B where not true the cooling wil be minimal
D. that thing must be heavy as (mobo go crushy crushy)
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Old 14th Jun 2007, 09:31   #11
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Surely it doesn't matter whether the tube conducts heat?

It would have ribs inside (where the connector rod is attached) which would disrupt the water flow making it longer

A well designed mounting should stop it hurting the mobo. If it was attached to the mobo securely, then a frame simpl for it to rest on / support it would be good
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My old acrylic one
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Old 14th Jun 2007, 15:00   #12
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so you are not just running the tube through the piston (the water is going to touch the metal)

steel transfers heat alot slower than copper and the water is alot further away from the cpu in your piston
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Old 14th Jun 2007, 18:30   #13
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Butcher9 9: I'm using seperate tubes for inlet and outlet. It's an aluminum head, not steel. (I don't recall ever seeing a steel piston head, sounds neat!)It's much lighter than a copper waterblock.
Also- I'm doing this for a laugh. I have a working p3 500 mhz that smells like cat****, so I can't use it or sell it. I won't be too hurt if it kills the motherboard.
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Old 14th Jun 2007, 22:28   #14
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Cheapskate is definitely a rep cheat.Cheapskate is definitely a rep cheat.Cheapskate is definitely a rep cheat.Cheapskate is definitely a rep cheat.Cheapskate is definitely a rep cheat.Cheapskate is definitely a rep cheat.Cheapskate is definitely a rep cheat.Cheapskate is definitely a rep cheat.Cheapskate is definitely a rep cheat.Cheapskate is definitely a rep cheat.Cheapskate is definitely a rep cheat.
I just tried Tjedi AI's molex dying trick, it worked. I am now harvesting molex plugs for a mass dye-job.
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Old 14th Jun 2007, 22:40   #15
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OMG using a dead engine looks great (has masses of ideas of building a pc into a V8 engine
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Old 15th Jun 2007, 00:21   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sk8ter646
OMG using a dead engine looks great (has masses of ideas of building a pc into a V8 engine
... that still works at the end of the mod... lol
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Old 15th Jun 2007, 00:35   #17
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now that would be cool and possible although temperatures would be an extreme issue just mount a mini-itx system into a fake supercharger/turbo panel and seal it somehow and fill with non-conductive watercooling and your set
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Old 15th Jun 2007, 04:06   #18
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oh i thought that you where just testing it on a 500mhz and then it would go on a better cpu but it should work even without the water on that cpu

it will look pretty crazy
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Old 15th Jun 2007, 18:17   #19
Cheapskate
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Cheapskate is definitely a rep cheat.Cheapskate is definitely a rep cheat.Cheapskate is definitely a rep cheat.Cheapskate is definitely a rep cheat.Cheapskate is definitely a rep cheat.Cheapskate is definitely a rep cheat.Cheapskate is definitely a rep cheat.Cheapskate is definitely a rep cheat.Cheapskate is definitely a rep cheat.Cheapskate is definitely a rep cheat.Cheapskate is definitely a rep cheat.
Crazy I can do.
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Old 17th Jun 2007, 06:48   #20
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NOW it's a project log...

Almost everything came in friday. The only thing I'm missing now is my order from Futurlec.(The first order I made...)
I have to thank Greensabbath again for mentioning Delvie's Plastics. They responded fast and were the best price for acylic I found.
On to phase 2: CHOPPING!

This is my prep for the first cut with my wetsaw. I was a little worried the paper would melt or get sticky, but everything turned out okay.

My 1st obstacle. I had to dig around to find a ruler long enough to use as a guide on my faceplate/topplate cut.
I don't have many pics of the cutting because I was racing a thunderstorm. as I was doing the last cut, it started to rain.

So I went to the garage to cut the polycarbonate for the drive latches. I decided to shave a few HUNDRED bucks off my costs by cutting my own parts. I ordered a 12" square from McMaster Carr. It showed up in 3 days (in a HUGE box,) and was actually a little larger than 12".

I then proceeded to make a horrible mess. I used a fluted dremel bit, spraying water on it after each pass to cool it down.

More mayhem...

My finished bits of junk.

A test fit on a gutted hardrive. I forgot to countersink the holes while I had the drill press out...

-Dug my 1st batch of molex plugs out of the jar of dye on the back porch. Why didn't -I- think of this?
Anyway, that's all for today. I think I can move this to the project logs section now...
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