Scratch Build Project: Skyscraper Photo PC - Completed Aug 1st

[slipperyskip]

Seems like everyone else is doing a project log on bit-tech. I might as well join the fun.

This should be a fairly easy build but with any luck it will turn into a nightmare. I like it like that. Lots of twists and turns with unseen problems to solve is what this is all about to me.

The idea behind this project is to build a digital picture frame that has a built-in PC to give it a little more capability than just a plain off-the-shelf digi-frame. Of course it will be encased in something different. Those of you who know my work will guess correctly that it will be made of wood and be retro-styled...something art deco maybe?

Here we go....



Here is the screen I'm using. It is a 11.3 inch LCD with a 800x600 native resolution.



I bought a new Starvision rooftop-mounted video screen and gutted it. I chose this screen primarily because the OSD controls are located on the upper portion of the unit instead of mounted next to the screen as most of these are. Reason: It must have a long cable to reach that far away. I will use this length to mount the control panel wherever I want to. I was afraid that controls mounted next to the screen would have a very short cable.



This is the screen's backside. The black ribbon cable is for the OSD control panel. The round black cable carries video, audio and power which is 12VDC being that this is an automotive accessory.



The control panel and the wiring harness. There will be some splicing going on with that harness. The control panel has, in addition to the OSD controls, an IR receiver for a remote control, a radio transmitter for the audio signal (plays thru the car's stereo), flashy, blinky LEDs and a couple of dome lights with switch. I'll only be using the OSD controls.

Much more to come. Now where's my Dremel?

[MoRBiD]

This looks interesting

Good luck wit this!!

[Tale Gunner]

I love your humidor project. I have been pushing it around in my mind as to trying to build one of those. Can't wait to see what you are going to do here.

[slipperyskip]

Originally Posted by Tale Gunner

I love your humidor project. I have been pushing it around in my mind as to trying to build one of those. Can't wait to see what you are going to do here.

Thanks. I built my first Humidor PC five years ago. Few people at the time had ever heard of using wood as a case material. I got all the nonsense about over-heating, EMI, lack of grounding and even catching on fire. Pretty funny stuff.

I haven't done a Humidor PC since the NX back in 2005. I've been doing more scratch built stuff like the Unidyne PC and the case mod Decomatic.

It is good to see all the wood-based projects going on here at bit-tech.

[slipperyskip]

Marked are the mounting tabs that have to go to make way for the wood bezel. Everything that sticks out past the screen's aluminum frame will be cut off.



Here is the steel frame after removing the electronics and screen. The tabs have been Dremeled off and the sharp edges have been filed.

[Teyber]

lots of potential here, keep up the good work

[wbdog206]

this will bee interesting to watch.
i'll bee keeping an eye on this.

[slipperyskip]

Some woodwork finally. Here I have cutout a paper template of the screen. It is trimmed slightly in order to ensure a small overlap of the wood bezel over the edge of the screen.

The wood strips are made from basswood, my wood of choice for this kind of work. It is technically a hardwood but it is very mill-able. It is also widely available here in the States at most every hobby store. See Midwest Products.

I'm not doing mitered corners. Instead, I'm doing what I call a counter-rotating pinwheel. The first course, which is the actual bezel face, is not structurally sound. The second course, shown placed around the frame, will end up overlapping each corner because I reverse direction of the joint alignment. Additionally, there will be a third course that will add a great deal of structural integrity to each corner.

I'm not doing mitered corners for several reasons. I find that mitered corners are very fragile and since this project will be either painted or veneered there is no real compelling reason to miter (mitre?).

I cut my wood with a tiny little extra length. I mill these overages back to spec as part of the finishing process .

[slipperyskip]

Glued up and rough sanding completed.

[slipperyskip]

I've added my own tabs to shim up the screen and also help with the alignment of the attached box that is coming



A test fitting.



Planks of basswood are cut and glued up.



The photo frame will have a portrait orientation as opposed to the more common landscape orientation.

[Dj Ovin]

wow, looking really great man

[slipperyskip]

Originally Posted by Dj Ovin

wow, looking really great man

Thanks. Not much to see quite yet.

Norway! Cool. Maybe you can translate this for me:

http://itpro.no/art/9117.html

[ComputerKing]

cooooooool.. Nice work

good luck

[MoRBiD]

Nice work. looks good man. cant wait to see the outcome.

[Tale Gunner]

Work looks nice. Just one question why not mitre the corners and not use the butt joint? Would highlight your work in wood.

[slipperyskip]

Thanks Computerking, MoRBiD and Tale Gunner.

Originally Posted by Tale Gunner

Just one question why not mitre the corners and not use the butt joint?

This project will be painted or veneered. I would mitre the veneer if I go that route. Basswood is great for building up the structure but I don't think it finishes very well.

This is the same method I used for the Decomatic. It's legs have a basswood structure with a mahogany veneer.





At the other end, I have the Unidyne that has a painted basswood finish. I find that basswood paints very well.

[slipperyskip]

The hieroglyphics drawn on the sides and top are where I have been designing and arranging the decorative elements. This also helps me to estimate any additional material I may need.

Shown in the foreground are the beginnings of three of these decorative elements.

[x06jsp]

looking goooddddd

[wbdog206]

looks nice. going to be sweet when it's all done.

[Skulldragger]

Subscribed!

A quick question, do you find that a 3 layer joint as you have here is stronger than a single 1"x with a tung-in-groove joint? I notice that a lot of wood smiths use a multiple layer / glue approach when greater strength is needed and was just wondering.

AWESOME work on the mike!