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#661 |
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Never stuck with stock@Hotmods.net
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Roskilde, Denmark
Posts: 2,175
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Thanks.
If you minimize your shutter time (try with 1/1000s), we will be able to see the LED itself. Have a go at it.
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Best regards, Nutman Project: Nutman - Sponsored by: Coolerkit - Specialtech - EK Waterblocks |
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#662 |
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Multimodder
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: In the dragon's lair
Posts: 164
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Maybe a little late now though but these could have worked
http://www.phenoptix.com/shop/blue-f...rip-p-129.html |
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#663 | ||
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has finished Blue Horizon
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: UK
Posts: 1,263
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Quote:
Quote:
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#664 |
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Never stuck with stock@Hotmods.net
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Roskilde, Denmark
Posts: 2,175
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Yeah, much better pics. Nice spreading of the light. Thanks!
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Best regards, Nutman Project: Nutman - Sponsored by: Coolerkit - Specialtech - EK Waterblocks |
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#665 | |
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Minimodder
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 20
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Awesome project!! Last edited by error404; 20th Mar 2011 at 13:54. |
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#666 |
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Topiary Golem
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: (1/k)*(F(t)-m*ddx-c*dx)
Posts: 1,045
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You can make them yourself. Just buy o-ring splicing kit or a spool of o-ring cord stock and glue proper sizes with cyanoacrylate.
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Project: Seawolf Project: 1 Project: Flux (est 2012) Modders make project logs. Project logs make mods. Mods make modders.
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#667 |
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Supermodder
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: lower bavaria
Posts: 322
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The water cooler looks different to the most one, I really like it. I also like it how you made it.
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#668 | |||
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has finished Blue Horizon
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: UK
Posts: 1,263
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Glad to be of assistance
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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Quality-O-Ring...#ht_2586wt_905 And heres the glue that bonds the ends together: You need the actual glue: http://www.sureloc-direct.com/producttypes.php?pid=52 And the activator: http://www.sureloc-direct.com/producttypes.php?pid=35 It sets instantly as soon as the spray the activator on it or squash it between two surfaces however I always use the activator as it sets better, and can also be used to glue pretty much everything except it doesn't work very well on metals. Quote:
, links are above.Quote:
In order to fit LED's into the heatsink acrylic, I first milled out a square channel: I then superglued and soldered the LED's Once the heatsink is finished only the edge of the acrylic will be visible. |
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#669 | |
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Minimodder
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 20
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I guess I was right on target.... I was planning to use .070" Diam. Buna-N 70 O-Ring Cord Stock http://www.fastenal.com/web/search/products/_/N-gj4zvx& & and this https://www.neverseezproductscart.co...152#googlebase
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#670 |
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dat steak
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: SW1H
Posts: 13,519
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Its so PWEEEEEEETY
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#671 |
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Multimodder
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 82
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Only just started to plan a mod as i am newbie. I am in awe... seeing builds like this.
Simply amazing.. the lights so perrrrty
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#672 | ||
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has finished Blue Horizon
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: UK
Posts: 1,263
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, you shouldn't need the activator if your only gonna use it to splice the o ring.Quote:
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#673 |
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modeteer
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 568
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Definitely be careful not to tighten down your fasteners to hard on that acrylic. Especially with a square channel machined out (that being one with sharp corners and not fillets) your bound to have higher stress levels. I don't think you would have trouble but it would be a shame to crack the panel at this stage. Lights look really sweet man! I tend to like it more when lighting is very evenly distributed without any bright spots (which is hard
) but in your case I think I like it more with the brighter areas.Slick as hell man, I can't wait to see this assembled and running! |
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#674 | |
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has finished Blue Horizon
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: UK
Posts: 1,263
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Quote:
Thanks sixfootsideburns I have poured some clear resin into the channel to make it a bit stronger: I have now finished with the heatsink until I get it anodized. Next up is attaching the coolant angle barb block. To start off I milled out a peice of aluminium using a small milling bit: I then chopped it down to the sizes I needed using a Junior hacksaw: I then drilled holes into each of the little tabs: And here's the result after a little sanding: I didn't spend too much time on making them look nice as they're not going to be visible. I then drilled holes into the appropriate places on the angle barb block: And then tapped them: Here's the tabs now screwed onto the block: It just needs a final polish and then I'll screw it to the case, which is the last step before I start to attach the top panels. |
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#675 |
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Multimodder
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 194
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This is an amazing piece of workmanship. I love scratch builds.
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#676 |
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Tetrep
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: UK
Posts: 4,536
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Awesome progress Graham, the acrylic piece looks great lit up & how you mention it'll only show light around the edge later on sounds even better
That last piece, is that for attaching to the rad? if so flipping amazing work mate ![]() loving this build.
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#677 | ||
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has finished Blue Horizon
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: UK
Posts: 1,263
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Quote:
Quote:
, the last two pics are of the block which trasfers the coolant from the tubes inside the case to the tubes behind the back panel which are then connected to the heatsink. I made it ages ago, but never got round to attaching it to the case.
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#678 |
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has finished Blue Horizon
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: UK
Posts: 1,263
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Heres the next update:
To finish the top panels I first cut out some acrylic pieces to fit onto the side of the aluminium: I then attached the acrylic to the aluminium with some JB weld: I then used an Orbital sander to smooth down the acrylic: Its not quite a perfect spread of light but it will have to do unless I think of something to spread the light out better. I then screwed the water angle barb block onto the case: Its not the prettiest view from the back but it wont bee seen: I then used a bandsaw to cut out a block of aluminium: I then used a facemill to trim down the edges: I then drilled a pilot hole: I then drilled all the way through with a 3mm bit, then half way through with a 7mm bit: Then after a bit of sanding: I then milled a slot across to all the top panel to sit on top of it: I then drilled a hole through the back of the case: I then drilled a hole into another block I made earlier: I then tapped the hole: Both the above blocks will be screwed together on either side of the back of the case. I then drilled another hole through the back panel: And then screwed on the next block which I made earlier: Last edited by riekmaharg2; 29th Mar 2011 at 10:32. |
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#679 |
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Tetrep
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: UK
Posts: 4,536
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OMG this is looking amazing mate, beautiful work
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#680 |
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has finished Blue Horizon
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: UK
Posts: 1,263
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| Tags |
| blue, custom res, scratch build riekmaharg2 |
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