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Old 22nd Nov 2010, 00:24   #21
The_Gnu
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Originally Posted by ringo View Post
Nice aluminium parts.
Thanks.

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Originally Posted by Marcos_Viegas View Post
Lego!!!

Aewsome work!!!

Congratulations!!!
Hehe yeah kind of.. just not quite as easy to join though

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Originally Posted by k0rben View Post
Pretty megaheatsink you got there! So, basically, the body of the case will be created from those heatsinks, right?
Yeah pretty much like that, All those heatsinks (+ 17 more ) will be joined into one massive heatsink that will make out half of the case.

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It's like heavy metal and Tetris combined to make a sexy Tetris-heatsink lovechild.

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Hehe tanks. Yeah I guess you could actually say that the finished case will have some tetris influenses.

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Originally Posted by imersa View Post
Just looks damn cool. More please
Thanks
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Old 22nd Nov 2010, 08:21   #22
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This looks very promising, definately a build i'll be keeping an eye on!

And the Zotac, It's a solid board.
I've got one running 24/7 as file, printer and Minecraft server.. and besides the massive req's of the MC server. i've never had any issues what so ever.

And with 4Gigs ram, it does 1080p movies like a charm.

( btw, go bios and ramp up that FSB, it goes 2Ghz without breaking a swet!! )
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Old 22nd Nov 2010, 13:09   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baekkel View Post
This looks very promising, definately a build i'll be keeping an eye on!

And the Zotac, It's a solid board.
I've got one running 24/7 as file, printer and Minecraft server.. and besides the massive req's of the MC server. i've never had any issues what so ever.

And with 4Gigs ram, it does 1080p movies like a charm.

( btw, go bios and ramp up that FSB, it goes 2Ghz without breaking a swet!! )
Thanks. Nice to hear som feedback from someone who tested it. 4GB you say..then I'll have to test my set up with 1080p too see if I'll need to change my 2x1GB sticks. I guess it depends on what OS your running. I was thinking of running XP with XBMC but I'm also starting to like linux. What OS are your running on yours? Playing with the FPS is definately something I will do.
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Old 22nd Nov 2010, 13:37   #24
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I was running Win7 Home ed.
Just recently switched for Ubuntu, but lack of patience and skill forced me back to se7en again.

With only 2gigs it stuttered mildly at 1080p, but managed 720p MKV fairly good.

The FSB only goes at max 667.7Mhz, but stock cooler and the supplied fan in a restrictive case, only heats it @ 62-65 degrees Celsius under fair load.
Haven't pushed it too hard yet, or monitored it under 1080p yet (been too busy watching what was going on at the screen )

Classic Media Player - HomeCinema edition, supports the Nvidia ION hardware accelleration,
Guess that's what makes it possible...

Haven't tried Win XP on it, but my Netbook ran alot faster on Win7 than XP.. Dunno if it was due the better support for ATOM and ION, or it was my imagination..
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Old 22nd Nov 2010, 16:25   #25
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@ Baekkel
Thanks for the info, I guess I will do some test and see how it all works when it's all put together. God point about atom/ ION support issues, hadn't thought about that but will definetly do some research.
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Old 23rd Nov 2010, 19:00   #26
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Got some stuff delivered today. A GPU cooler (Titan twin turbo) that will act my heatpipe donor and some extension cables and angle connectors. Since the Mboard will be mounted vertically and close to the bottom of the case, I need to move the connectors from the backside, and therefore use the angled connectors.


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I though it would be easy to just slide those fins of but it took around 2 hours since they were so tight and I had to cut them in 4 pieces each. And those *******s were razor sharp as well, fingers are pretty sore by now. I was also hoping that the heatpipes would only be attatched with some thermal grease to the base it seams to be some kind of thermal glue. Atleast it doesn't look like solder. I will have to figure out a way to remove them, I was thinking of bending the copper plate "backwards" to make the holes wider and hopefully losen the joint.

Anyone done something similar or can think of a über method to loosen them?
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Old 23rd Nov 2010, 19:17   #27
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If I'm correct you can buy heat pips. (german shop)

and this has way more pipes
Zalman ZM-2HC2 HDD Cooler


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Old 23rd Nov 2010, 19:32   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WolfandAngel View Post
If I'm correct you can buy heat pips. (german shop)

wolfie
Available from Conrad in Sweden too

Regarding loosening the heatpipes you have now, your idea is probably the best bet.
I would try to place one side in a vice and using a hammer to bend the backplate. And after that using a hammer and chisel to get between the heatpipe and copper base.
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Old 23rd Nov 2010, 19:46   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WolfandAngel View Post
If I'm correct you can buy heat pips. (german shop)

and this has way more pipes
Zalman ZM-2HC2 HDD Cooler


wolfie
Thanks for the links. I have actually already looked at both of those alternatives. The reason why I didn't buy single ones from conrad was beacause when I was looking at the swedish site I couldn't find any specifikations to be shure of the performance. But I see now that your link to the german version has some PDF info about them. Never thought of that

Unfortunately the pipes in that zalman cooler is a bit to short.

Quote:
Originally Posted by razerz View Post
Available from Conrad in Sweden too

Regarding loosening the heatpipes you have now, your idea is probably the best bet.
I would try to place one side in a vice and using a hammer to bend the backplate. And after that using a hammer and chisel to get between the heatpipe and copper base.
Thanks for the tips, will keep that in mind, I'll have to be carefull to not damaging the heapipes with the chisel thoug.
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Old 23rd Nov 2010, 20:48   #30
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heatpipes...
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Old 24th Nov 2010, 01:34   #31
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I've read that some types of thermal glue become fairly brittle at cold temperatures. You could try throwing it in the freezer for a few hours and then try wiggling the heat pipes around a little.
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Old 24th Nov 2010, 02:22   #32
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You could try solvent to get rid of the glue, like aceton or ethyl acetate.
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Old 24th Nov 2010, 02:34   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asura View Post
thx for the link, didn't know they sell extensions for those HFX cases.

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Originally Posted by Stormtrooper View Post
I've read that some types of thermal glue become fairly brittle at cold temperatures. You could try throwing it in the freezer for a few hours and then try wiggling the heat pipes around a little.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrs77 View Post
You could try solvent to get rid of the glue, like aceton or ethyl acetate.
Thx for the tips guys, will try some acetone straight away and put it in the freezer over night if the solvent doesn't do any good.
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Old 24th Nov 2010, 02:44   #34
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Wow that grill is seriously sweet and I don't envy you playing with the fins,I've cut myself just fitting a cooler.
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Old 25th Nov 2010, 02:08   #35
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Originally Posted by bulldogjeff View Post
Wow that grill is seriously sweet and I don't envy you playing with the fins,I've cut myself just fitting a cooler.
Hehe yeah my fingers are starting to heal now



Continued my work with removing the heatpipes today. Since I was sure they were glued I tried with the acetone and freezer tips but non of them worked. So I went to the workshop and tried to bend the flat piece in the vice to widen the mounting holes and losen the glue. Here is the pic of that process.

(CLICK TO ZOOM)
This method turend out to be FAIL. When bending the piece I realised that as the holes got wider, the pipes got wider aswell. They were sticking so hard to the walls of the hole that they started to deform. A friend took a look at it and toold me it was mos likely solder and gave me the tip of putting it on the stove untill the solder melted. So... I put it on the stove. I had read about this technique before but was a bit worried about the heatpipes exploading or cracking since I've heard that 100ºC is their limit (sounds a bit low though). But thinking about it a second time, since the pipes are soldered, the melting temp of the solder have to be lower than the maximum heatpipe temp. But just in case, I put on some safety glasses, turned on the stove and in a minute or two, the pipes dropped down one by one as the solder melted. Quickly pulled them away from the stove once loose and let them cool. There was some smoke before they melt that got me worried but I guess it was only some grease or something, because I tested them after and they all work fine.


(CLICK TO ZOOM)


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Away with the stock heatsink since I need to take some measurements for the new heatpipe cooler.

(CLICK TO ZOOM)

Here is the reaelly thick piece of thermal pad used on the CPU. This is because the GPU and CPU have adifferent heigth. I have to thank Sanatarium here on the forum for providing the exact heightdifferent in his worklog.

(CLICK TO ZOOM)

Here I'm testfitting the heatpipes. This is how it all will be mounted. Heatpipes will be connected, behind the mobo, to the large 5mm thick aluminium plate that is also the base of the heatsink.

(CLICK TO ZOOM)

And ofcourse I also did some more heatsink parts, since the process is the same as the other parts, I wont bore you with the almost exact same pics.

(CLICK TO ZOOM)

All part so far put together.

(CLICK TO ZOOM)
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Old 25th Nov 2010, 02:14   #36
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omg I never thought of being able to scavenge heatpipes! hmm plan on. Great work so far dude!
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Old 25th Nov 2010, 04:16   #37
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lol, thought your last pic was a metal periodic table of the elements...
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Old 25th Nov 2010, 09:05   #38
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Looking good. I love the idea!
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Old 25th Nov 2010, 11:04   #39
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omg I never thought of being able to scavenge heatpipes! hmm plan on. Great work so far dude!
Thanks. I actually like scavenging more than buying new, it's something about that "look, I turned this into THIS, muahahaha" feeling.

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lol, thought your last pic was a metal periodic table of the elements...
hahaha.. well that would have been a little too geeky, even for mee

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Looking good. I love the idea!
Thanks
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Old 25th Nov 2010, 11:08   #40
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Love the space invaders heatsinks!
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