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#201 |
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8-bit addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sweden
Posts: 742
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Yeah You're right on that one because I'm that kind of person that needs a goal or dedline as a kick in the butt. I also really wan't to see this thing done and since it's so close to finish I think it would be foolish to complete it right after any possible MOTY event.
Thanks, so do I ![]() In occasion like this one, I take phreak as a compliment, Thanks
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#202 |
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8-bit addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sweden
Posts: 742
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TEASER!!!!
The parts are anodized and the assembly is about to begin. I was fearing the quality of the surface would be bad because of the 6082 alloy I used that isnt a prefered anodizing alloy. But they all turned out way better than I expected. So here is a mini tease for you ![]()
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#203 | ||||
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8-bit addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sweden
Posts: 742
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Thanks
Hehe, I like to tease. thanks for following ![]() Quote:
Don't worry, Ill show you. Ill try to give you a real update this evening of what I have done during the last week as I havn't eaxtly bin sitting around rolling my thumbs ![]() Yup, thats it, now it's done ![]() Haha hold your horses, Ill show you soon ![]() Opps I did it again ![]() Quote:
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![]() I've already bumped a few parts together but thankfully the anodized surface saved them from any scratches. But I always try to handle them like nitroglycerin since I know at this stage, there is no oportunety to just make a new one. Anyway, Ill try to get on with another update tonight to show you how I did the brushing of the parts and what the results were. Ce ya
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#204 | |
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8-bit addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sweden
Posts: 742
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The anodizer said that there could be some issues but that they could try to compensate for it in the process. And i think they could since Im really happy with the results. I would guess the issue is more related to the anodizing process, maybe it requires to stay in the pool longer or a higher voltage and maybe that's why someone decide to call it unprefered. Thanks for input. Anyone else who have som more feedback on this 6082 topic is mor than welcome to fill in. Pfft.. If you turned of all those big fans you got running down there it wouldn't be so windy up here, and I could focus on my modding instead
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#205 | |
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8-bit addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sweden
Posts: 742
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I thought you just turned them on when you didn't like the weather and blew it ower to us ![]() Here is what I have been doing lately. i finsihed the backplate and then I started the long and never ending process of brushing the parts. I have spent around 25h just brushing and cleaning all the parts. I didn't think it would take that long in the beginning but since it's a total of 64 parts with countless of edges, it took a bit longer than expected. I was planing to do the anodizing last friday but I had to put it forward until yesterday since I wanted to spend some more time on the brushing. So yesterday, I did an all nighter and skipped the sleep and just kept on sanding for 11 hours straight to get all the parts ready for the anodizer on omnday morning. If there is something I don't whant to rush, its the surface. It was kind of boring in the end but it was worth every second now that I see the result and I hope you think so too. First up is the finishing of the backpanel. Here Im adding a hole to be able to get a grip of the panel when you need to pull it off. It will also act as an airinlet. ![]() Then is the brushing. Some of you might have read my "how to brush aluminium" guide and find some similaritys. However this is another but similar method to brush smaller parts and get straight and nice brushing lines. Very simple, just a flat surface ( i used the bench of the tablesaw, be carefull to pull down the sawblade protection). Then I used a sturdy piece of alu as a support. Holding the support with one hand while sanding the part along the edge with the other worked fine. The grit of the sandpaper im using is 120, it's a pretty rough grit and greates a very nice brushed effect on the alu. In the end I took to smiliar brushings with a 400 grit paper just to remove any sharp edges created by the 120 grit. ![]() If your going to do a lot of them I recomend clamping the support and sandpaper down to make it a bit easier. ![]() A piece of wood works fine also, here im using a second support since the long alupiece is so hard to hold at an angle by itself. ![]() Before and after brushing. ![]() In the following pictures you can se some other supports I used to prevent the rounded edge effect you often get when filing by hand. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I decided to play with the different orientation of the brushing strokes. Since horizontal brush strokes are ofthen more vissible (because most light comes from above) i decided to make all the white parts of the mushroom with horizontal brush strokes and all other parts with vertical brush strokes. This created a very cool effect that makes shure you'll see the outline of the muschroom patern independent of where you're standing. This I did because I was worried that, if all the brush strokes were angled the same way, the patern of the different part would just blend into one single reflection when looking from the side. ![]() As you see in the following three pics. The effect changes when you look at it from another angle, but the pattern is always vissible. This is just brushed alu, no color. ![]() ![]() ![]() But here there is color :P ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I deliberety decided to make the green a bit darker than what you might first associate with the 1UP caracter. This is because I didn't want the whole thing to look like a toy as I think it would have done if it was a very bright green color. This is more of a military green and I think it fits verry well with the rest of the black and gray/silver pieces. ![]() There you have some more results, You'll here from me pretty soon as I asume you want to see some assembly pics aswell :P
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#206 | ||||||||||||||
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8-bit addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sweden
Posts: 742
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Here.. let me crack them for you ![]() Joking aside, it would be a true honor to be up against you Achron, in any competition. Thanks mate, Im glad you like it Quote:
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![]() Hehe I bet it all could work as a paper weight once its assembled aswell A pretty heavy oneQuote:
![]() Or maybe not.. as there is still a lot of pics left to show ![]() Thanks, me too ![]() Quote:
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Maybe I can convert you to Alu as you have almost converted me to wood. Quote:
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![]() But sorry, not replying is against my personal rules . If you take your time commenting, a comment back is the least I can do to show my appreciation. Even if it's only a But don't worry, youll see everything finished very soon :P Quote:
The anodizing cost 1000 SEK, thats around 140 USD. It's for around 70 pieces in 3 colors including tax. They will charge extra if you choose a color they don't have premixed or if they need to customize the fixture to hold your pieces. Luckely they didn't need to do that in my case so I think I got a pretty good price. Quote:
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Progress: Today its big assembly day, and finishing up the last cables, hopefully I got some stuff to show you tonight/tomorrow.
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#207 |
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8-bit addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Hahaha nice one
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#208 |
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8-bit addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Thanks riekmaharg2, Glad you like the colors, looking forward to seeing your anodizing results aswell
You again....you, you master of waterblocks. Hold your horses, Im in the middle of taking photos of the assembly process so far, working as fast as I can. (change fast to painstakingly)
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#209 | |
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8-bit addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sweden
Posts: 742
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Taking pics is no problem, but sorting them out is the hardest part.
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Its sad when companys only take on large quantitys, the small firms are always the easiest ones, luckely mine was small enough to take on my project. At first I was thinking of giving DIY anodizing a try but got to scared when I saw what acids that are needed. One mistake and your life can be ruined. One thing I really respect is acids. Yeah, your lucky on the cnc service instead, I've never used one so I don't know what It would cost me. But I might know in the future. And now, on with the show. ![]() ![]() ![]() Silver screws wouldn't look good on the cpu block so I decided to paint them black. They were sprayed with a black heat resistant car engine paint often found at auto shops. The color can withstand temps of 600°C and fully cures at 250°C. So I put them in the oven for baking. The surface gets really thin and it captures every detail, sticks in the m3 threads without any problems when screwing. It's also very durable as it can withstand the torque from a screw driver. Good solution if you want black screws but can only find silver ones. ![]() The black screws turned out nice but hey... it's time to bring out the designer in me and scream at those copper pipes that doesn't go well with the green and black theme. The right pipe is not messed up.. well it is, but it's for a reason as you will se in the next update. ![]() ![]() Oh yeah.. now that is much nicer. Don't worry, I didn't cover up any important contact area so this shouldn't effect its cooling ability. ![]() I got hold of some nice m3x6mm screws aswell. Since I will be using a lot of these, It was really nice to not have to paint my own ![]() ![]() ![]() We are getting there... ![]() ..Almost....done ![]() ..Just ned a few black ones.. ![]() ..Done :P, You'll just have to wait till the finish to see the front all together since now I need to remove some of them to mount the walls. It might look as if this was a simple process to just screw the pieces inplace, but it's a pain in the ass to align all the cubes together and get the lines inbetween as straight as possible. You move one piece a tiny bit and then you have to move all the others aswell. ![]() ![]() And some new parts I havn't shown before, the function of these I'll give you a chance to figure out yourself. But I can give you a tip, those four puny puny things attached to that M3 screw are über strong Neodym magnets. I don't know their exact lifting ability but they were able to hold a medium size plier ![]() ![]() Glued in place ![]() ![]() ![]() This is how the sidewalls are attatched to awoid any vissible screws. These screws will be hidden by the black pixel frame that is screwed on later from the other side. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Now it's time for some sleep and tomorrow or (techincally today) Ill try to finish up the assembly.
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#210 | |||||||||||||
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8-bit addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sweden
Posts: 742
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Wow, thanks for all the feedback guys.
I've been busy assembling all weekend hence my lack of replies. Sorry for that. Yesterday was probably the hardest part of the assembly so far as I assembled the mainboard, foot and the I/O. I will show you that and the rest in hopefully the last update today. Quote:
, It was pure willpower and coke. And also my sleeping patern is pretty messed up also.Quote:
I actually didn't know that anodizing was used as a thermal insulator, I simply thought it would work greate since there is a lot of heatsinks out there that are anodized. But I see your concern about the contact areas. After your info, I was thinking of removing the anodizing from atleast the bottom of the CPU block, but changed my mind since Its design would probably only result in an uneven and probably worse surface area. So Ill test it as is and if the temps are awfull, I'll know what to try. Thanks for your chemical knowledge aswell. I guess those acids are pretty safe to handle as you say, if you know what you are doing and use adequate safety precautions. It's just that I don't think I would feel safe having a big bucket of it around me. I know how clumpsy I can be sometimes and I think that some kind of splashing would eventually happen. When machining, I feel that I can somehow expect what can happen , in chemistry there is more the element of surprice..like splash,fzzzz,squuuiirt. However it's possible that I'll give it a try in the future. Atleast since I found THIShttp://www.observationsblog.com/4/po...tery-acid.html guy who uses Sodium Bisulfate instead. Seems a bit safer. Thanks Achron Quote:
![]() I guess I could try and make some wallpapers if you want. The plan is to bring it to a friend tomorrow to have it photographed with some pro gear instead of my crapy cam. So hopefully I'll get some nice pics I can use for a wallpaper. Quote:
über thanks Quote:
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Your right about the time, I was totally into 8-bit time, listening to 8-bit tunes and all. But your wrong about the sleeping all day part, I can rest when Im dead, I was finsihing the assembly :P Quote:
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#211 | |||
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8-bit addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sweden
Posts: 742
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![]() Serioslu I think I've gone insane on my plans for the pico build.. the shapes are as far away from this project as you can get, apart from small and passive I hope Ill be able to pull it of though.
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#212 | |||
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8-bit addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sweden
Posts: 742
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I promised you guys a last and finsihing update yesterday as the case is now COMPLETE ![]() But aparently since the cutt of for MOTY was last week, there is no need to rush things anymore. I'll just sort out the work done lately and take some time organizing the pictures and updates some more. And maybe I'll throw in a bit of extra for the fun of it ![]() See you soon, and btw: IT WORKS!!!!
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#213 | |||
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8-bit addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sweden
Posts: 742
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You bet I'll vote on you this year, cause I can't see no reason for you not to be in it and wining aswell Thanks spigs, but make shure to clean your fingers cause the black loves fingerprints Quote:
Yup, those screws got some nice licorice flavour to them. And now.... ..It's ime to play with some fiber optics :P Since there will be no moving parts in this computer it will be dead silent. When I first powered it up earlier this year I thought it was dead since there was no sign of life at all. After a few secs, suddenly there was a picture on the screen. Thats when I relised what dead silent really sounds like ![]() So it would be good to have some LEDs to show that it's up and running. And I hate those long black/red wires Can you guess the LED color? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() And it would be nice to see when the bluetooth is active aswell. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Here you can see one of the possible flaws you can get when anodizing. This happened because the hole you see isn't all the way through. And because of that, it will hold some remains from the previous bath in the anodizing that can leak out. Luckely this flaw was on the best place possible as it won't be vissible in the end ![]() I decided to use fiberoptics on the network connector aswell. The ends are just glued onto the connector and when it's pushed in, they are resting against the original leds mounted on the mobo and the light is transfered to where I want it. ![]() And here is the mounting of the fiber optic ends. The fiber is pretty stiff and the same size (1mm) as the hole istelf so Its own tension will hold it inplace, won't need any glue once pushed in. ![]() ![]() ..who uses VGA port nowadays?... some extra space is more usefull to me so ...snip..snip goes the cutter. ![]() ![]() This was the biggest setback I've encountered so far on this project, Since most of the drawings are in my head I havn't done a virtuall assembly other than in my mind. This was one of the hard to reach screws I was a bit conserned about. I wouldn't know if it worked untill final assembly. And it turned out I would need an allan key shaped like and "S" to tighten it. I knew there would had to be one way of tightening it but couldn't find it and was staring myself blind at this screw for several hours. And then my girlfriend comes home take a look at the problem and solves the problem in notime. .. That's when you need a brake.![]() ![]() ![]() Mounting the mobo and the foot took a whole day because it was so fricking cramped by the connectors. The whole case feels like some kind of rubiks cube since you can only mount the parts in one perticular order. I guess thats what you pay for not allowing any screws to be vissible from the outside. Luckely we are not talking mass production on this one
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#214 | ||||||||
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8-bit addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sweden
Posts: 742
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Thanks
Yeah I tuned in on your brain and did some mind reading. Among all the G-code that was wirling around, I managed to pic up the fiber optics idea ![]() Quote:
Very nice comment myrizzle, bet you got skills aswell Quote:
Thanks it does the trickQuote:
I MUST HAVE!!!! Quote:
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Assembly in tight spaces is a pain for shure but thats the cost if you want it small ![]() Quote:
![]() Seriously...thanks Alex Thanks you for all the replies guys, and Happy holidays to all of you. Now I think I'll take some well needed rest during christmas and catch up some sleep. Cee ya soon
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#215 | |||||
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8-bit addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sweden
Posts: 742
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Thanks mate Im honored, there will be more pics soon. I have been taking some time of during the holidays but will soon be back on track. Thanks, you got some pretty fine cabling going on yourself Quote:
I also like your reaction to it but I just have to say that......I like cliff hangers![]() But I feel kind this year, so I won't hold on to the updates for that much longer....maybe Seriously, many thanks Quote:
I was hoping to make it to MOTY, but I thought that finishing it a few days before would be enough. But apparently the cuttof was some weeks before so I wouldnt have made it anyhow. But that means I've got some more time to fintune the last pieces and maybe pull out a trick our two out of my sleeve. Quote:
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#216 | |
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8-bit addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Okay, it's time to get back to business. I've been taking a few weeks of from the project during the hollidays, but now Im starting to get back to normal and it's time to wrap it all up. Since the case is so cramped as it is already, I didn't have room to stuff full length sata cabels in there. So It's time to make some custom ones. Also, those standard 90° angled connectors are turned the wrong way around from what I need, so that had to be sorted out aswell. I have seen some DIY sata shortening tutorials on the net before. They used a removable connector that they reatached in the end. I couldn't find any of those around so I decided to give the normal cast connector a try. Donor Cable ![]() I bent the connector pins, cut the cable to the desired length and resoldered the wires. Have to make shure not to shorten any of the wires before aplying the hotglue. ![]() There was no way I could reuse the original connector housing so I had to make my own using my trusty old black coloured hot glue. ![]() ![]() Only one SSD drive, would make the inside of the case look unsymmetrical (not that it will be vissible anyway). And 60GB of storage is a bit small so I went for a stroll and got myself another similar one. Luckely, I already had a matching HD mount. ![]() ![]() ![]() Don't worry, that white halfcircular sticker will be removed once I've made shure it works.
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#217 | |||
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8-bit addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sweden
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Thanks
Thanks, and yes, pure niceness from you Thanks quizz, easy easy now, im not as fast as you with a new build every second month ![]() Hehe thanks for the reply Quote:
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#218 | ||
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8-bit addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
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![]() Thanks, yeah I guess so too, but never tried the removable ones. But since the small connector pins are really fragile, they are easily damaged when cutting away the molded housing.
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#219 | ||||
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8-bit addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
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#220 | ||
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8-bit addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sweden
Posts: 742
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![]() Hehe thanks
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