Scratch Build REDELUX (18/1 Final pictures and video)

[quizz_kid]

Originally Posted by Mosquito

yeah, the holes in the hexagon, I'm a little behind Just a thought for something to try. I have a few down and up cut spiral bits, depending on whether I'm using them in my router table, or hand held, and which surface I have the router against. They seem to cut a little smoother, and leave a little cleaner edge for me.

Thanks for the tip... I´m going to buy one after payday!

Originally Posted by Pranja

Awesome woodworking. Looks really nice.

Thank you Pranja! Appreciated.

[kelmannen]

Originally Posted by Mosquito

yeah, the holes in the hexagon, I'm a little behind Just a thought for something to try. I have a few down and up cut spiral bits, depending on whether I'm using them in my router table, or hand held, and which surface I have the router against. They seem to cut a little smoother, and leave a little cleaner edge for me.

that is correct =) they are cutting straighter because the shears arn't straight, it makes the cutting action less brutal i.e the difference between hacking bread or cutting with a knife, try whack it straight trought and then try cutting... =P spiral bits also usually holds longer and work cooler for that reason, smoother action(and longer cutting edge)

one thing you should think of is that the spiral can go both ways, either lifting some splinters or pushing them down!

[quizz_kid]

Back to work!

So, this is my idea for the 1st player controller:

I needed the docking/detaching between the pads to feel solid + I needed a 8-pin connection.
I had a lot of complex ideas, but ended up with 4x 6,3mm tele plugs.
The male and female are ideal for both bridge AND connection. I´m quite proud of the solution.




I made button panels for both controllers


Made som fittings for the projector


This is what I´ll be using for the vertical adjustments of the projector. Veeery neat



Cut iout some i/o panels and painted them black



Finally, I made a slight tapered lens protection in solid walnut and added a tiny brass chain.




Hope you´ll like it. Til next time, YO!

[quizz_kid]

Been a while... Just moved to a new school. Anyway, here´s update!

Button layout drilled


Made a locking mechanism for the controllers. Two tiny 14mm walnut
knobs that´ll lock 3mm MDF pieces into a groove and keep the sliding backside in place.






Glued the trackball stand onto the mouse PCB


Hade to make 4mm spacers for the right distance between ball and laser eye.


Put the foot together... This is what it looks like with casters. I kinda like it.


Also started to make some drilling for the battery holders.


My two wireless Xbox 360 controllers arrived


Took them apart and started on the soldering


... and this is after 3 hrs. Never try solder on a 360. That PCB is made in hell!!!

[Attila]

Nice work again quizz. I love the docking system.

[Waynio]

Love the awesomeness you cram into your projects with added perfect woodwork.

[quizz_kid]

Originally Posted by Attila

Nice work again quizz. I love the docking system.

Thanks Attila... I´m quite proud with the docking myself

Originally Posted by Waynio

Love the awesomeness you cram into your projects with added perfect woodwork.

Much appriciated as always Waynio!

[quizz_kid]

These are the Sanwa JLF joysticks I´ll be using. I needed to mod them a bit, make the 4- to 8-way switching more user friendly


This is the bracket in original


I pulled it apart, removed some plastic och made a turning knob in walnut


Glued with epoxy


Easy access, this is what it´ll look like.



Tomorrow I´m going to re-veneer the whole console. But that´s for tomorrow. So long!!

[Waynio]

Nice access

[kelmannen]

oooh, nice progress! i love the woodworking!

[AnG3L]

I am amazed by your work my friend, keep on messing with my mind!!!

[coolamasta]

Loving the work put into this, looking awesome

[quizz_kid]

Thanks guys, appreciate it!

So, I couldn´t stand that cracked surface of really bad veneering... So I decided to re-do it.

I starded by cutting the hexagon apart in a bandsaw


Then I put the pieces through some sanding. Had to sand the inner sides down aswell, about 3 mm, just to make up for the loss in material during the bandsaw cutting. So the sides are a bit thinner now, but still very stable.


Re-veneering going on, this time using thicker pieces that covers the whole sides.


This is after the facelift... soooo much better. The grain looks better aswell. Also made some profile milling at the top.

[kinghong1970]

excellent woodwork!

mind if i ask some questions...

1) what did you use to cross cut the MDF core walnut ply?
2) did you use any sacrificial wood or masking tape?

basically, the easiest way to prevent chipping in cross cuts (when cutting perpendicular to grain) is to use masking tape.

if you are using a table saw, 2 things will help a ton also.
1) zero tolerance insert where the slit for the saw is narrow enough to help keep wood in check... (but may be difficult in miter cuts)
2) type of blade you are using on your table saw... instead of ripping blades, higher tpi blades, take it slow and get a cleaner cut.

also, where you get your plywood matters... good lumber mill quality is far better than box stores...

anyways, nice solution to your problems.

great work again!

[Mosquito]

3mm of sanding? Did you do that by hand, or do you have a thickness sander? That's a lot!

Looks much better now, and I would agree about the grain patterns too. Is that figure in the third from last picture? Nice!

[quizz_kid]

Originally Posted by kinghong1970

excellent woodwork!

mind if i ask some questions...

1) what did you use to cross cut the MDF core walnut ply?
2) did you use any sacrificial wood or masking tape?

basically, the easiest way to prevent chipping in cross cuts (when cutting perpendicular to grain) is to use masking tape.

if you are using a table saw, 2 things will help a ton also.
1) zero tolerance insert where the slit for the saw is narrow enough to help keep wood in check... (but may be difficult in miter cuts)
2) type of blade you are using on your table saw... instead of ripping blades, higher tpi blades, take it slow and get a cleaner cut.

also, where you get your plywood matters... good lumber mill quality is far better than box stores...

anyways, nice solution to your problems.

great work again!

Thanks! I used a table saw with blade high and sacrificial wood. I dont trust masking tape that much, had some issues with it before. Good tips though!

Originally Posted by Mosquito

3mm of sanding? Did you do that by hand, or do you have a thickness sander? That's a lot!

Looks much better now, and I would agree about the grain patterns too. Is that figure in the third from last picture? Nice!

Thank you. Yep, we have a sander master in my new workshop. That mashine is a blessing from above!! And yeah, that's figure... The veneer almost sparkles in sertain lights. Cant wait to put finish on that...

[quizz_kid]

Update!

Bought some simple black on'n'off switches for the controllers, and drilled some holes.



Did the decoration painting... Check my old "R-Kaid-6" thread for more info about it.





I painted the inner sides of the console aswell, in black, mainly to cover the MDF.



I´ve decided to not use the hexagon grill, it´s a bit too much IMO


I´m not sure about the frames for the sides. There are no cracks to hide anymore, but I actually like them, so I might use them. Any thoughts?


Stained the front panel for contrast


I´m also thinking about remaking the fan grill in front. I kind of like the roughness, but I could make a cleaner one with sharper tools. Thoughts there?


/ Quizzzzz

[quizz_kid]

Since nobody cared(), I decided to go with frames and grill.

Mmm... The finish, 4 layers of Danish oil.



Assemble up next

/ Quizz

[Waynio]

You auto picked what I was going to say.

The round grill bit though I also like the detail from the slight roughness that you can only see from right up close.

Finishing & patterns are looking great.

[p0Pe]

Wuuuuh! You used something Danish:P