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#81 |
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↓ Don't trust that face!
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Texas
Posts: 6,979
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oooh, delicious combo of copper and walnut. It's like when those dudes eating peanut butter and chocolate accidentally ran into each other.
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#82 |
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Never stuck with stock@Hotmods.net
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Roskilde, Denmark
Posts: 2,175
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Again, subbed waaaaay too late. Anyway, now I'm here.
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Best regards, Nutman Project: Nutman - Sponsored by: Coolerkit - Specialtech - EK Waterblocks |
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#83 | |
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Squid
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Sweden
Posts: 569
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Hi man... Itīs never too late for stopping by. Appreciate it! |
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#84 |
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Squid
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Sweden
Posts: 569
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:Hereīs an update for you all!
I started off with the lighting... This is the idea: ![]() Got this 8mm copper tube in the mail this morning ![]() I aslo got this little tube cutter... Itīs very effective and the cuts are perfect. ![]() I just cut the whole tube down into small random sized pipes. ![]() Then I inserted some black bezel LED holders into the tubes, and they fitted almost too perfect (I only had three LED holders, so gonna order some more) To make the diodes fit Iīll have to sand the edges down like on the picture. Well thatīs going to be boring... ![]() Then I placed the pipes in a nice "random" flow on the top plate and marked it for drilling. I decided to have some LEDs up on the I/O hider too. ![]() Then I wanted to try something new for some of the cables. This is the power SW cable. I cut one of the cables and replaced it with a copper wire for good bending. ![]() I tried to get the two cables through this nice lace I had laying around, but it was too tight. I came up with a solution where I put a tiny piece of schrinking tube on the end of both cables, and finally managed to get them both through. ![]() And this is what you can make with a cable like this, a stable spiral. I like it!! ![]() Then I made a mesh for the I/O hider and found a nice little thing for the P4 cable to go through. ![]() I painted the mesh black, and turned brass into copper. This is how it looks. Oh, and yeah, thatīs my DIY P4 cable. ![]() And here are some pictures of the pipes breaking through the surface of the top plate. ![]() The I/O hider ![]() From above ![]() Close up ![]() Another angle ![]() Finally, I made the tiny tiny walnut piece. Can you guess the function of this one??? Itīs 52mm long, if thatīs a clue?... Laterzzz! ![]() ![]()
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#85 |
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Fenrir The Wolf
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Sisak,Croatia
Posts: 943
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24 pin?
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Cosmos S Reaper L.R.E.C. Scorpio Arya-under construction ROG Crawler-under construction |
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#86 |
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Squid
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Sweden
Posts: 569
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Just spoil all the fun Pranja!! ... and we have a winner. But you scare me. Are you walking around with the measurements of an ATX connector in your head??
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#87 | |
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Fenrir The Wolf
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Sisak,Croatia
Posts: 943
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![]() I don't know measurments,but I am very good in comparing object sizes.
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Cosmos S Reaper L.R.E.C. Scorpio Arya-under construction ROG Crawler-under construction |
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#88 | |
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Squid
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Sweden
Posts: 569
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#89 |
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Squid
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Sweden
Posts: 569
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Iīve been looking at the copper pipes all evening, and Iīm not too sure about them anymore. I find them nice, but for this build they just might be a bit too much. I want something more simplyfied here I think. Iīm going to make a new top plate tomorrow, exactly the same, but without the pipes... Hmm
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#90 |
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Squid
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Sweden
Posts: 569
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Update time
![]() I decided to get rid of the door function and glued it all together. Thereīs really no need for a door anymore, this after a minor change in the case design. And it will feel more solid now. I left the hinges in there in lack of ideas, but itīll look ok I think. ![]() As I said, those copper pipes seemed a bit to much, so I made a new top plate, a very similar one as you can see, but with 7mm holes instead of 8mm, AND i put a darker stain on it. Itīll look better with the board and is a nice contrast to the outer shell. Much better I think. ![]() I will leave those copper pipes and go with these tiny LED bezel holders instead. The build will have a much cleaner look now. But what a waste of copper ![]() ![]() Then I stained the I/O hider in the same tone as the top plate and made a new mesh. ![]() Then it was time for some sleeving. Itīs my first ATX sleeving, and itīs very unique I guess. Used black and black/brown cotton laces for the job. ![]() The walnut connector in place. Iīm very happy with the result. ![]() From another view ![]() .. and another one ![]() .. and another one. Donīt know if Iīm going to keep that spiral cable though. ![]() Last shot... Here you can see the new mesh aswell. Better alighment and it almost touches the board now. Also got rid of that P4 copper detail... Much better! Laterzzz!
Last edited by quizz_kid; 11th Dec 2012 at 17:51. |
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#91 |
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Scratchbuilder
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Sweden
Posts: 138
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Oh that 24-pin <3
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Scratch builds | Cold Winter | CURV3D | The Red One | Casemods | BarPC | Check out my facebook-page where I post everything about my mods. Like/share if you want to.
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#92 |
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What's a Dremel?
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Sweden
Posts: 18
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I really like the sleeving on your projects, it really adds to the "vintage radio" look.
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#93 |
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Car lover and Speed Junkie
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: USA rep: 1,452,092 (Greatness)
Posts: 819
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You Could make some led bezels with those copper pipe stubs... Might take a bit of work though... but wasting copper is sinfull so... Still looking good a always!
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#94 | |
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Say it! Who's your dremel?!
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Scotland, Sin City
Posts: 3,116
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::: i5 2500K :: GTX670 :: 2x 840 PRO 128GB :: Gigabyte Z77 mATX :: 4GB Ballistix :: Hazro 27" :: CM QF Rapid MX Browns ::: projects: ::: PHINIX CUBE ::: "PHINIX nanoTOWER" ::: "PHINIX AURORA" ::: |
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#95 | |||
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Squid
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Sweden
Posts: 569
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Glad you like it! Itīs just a detail, but Iīm quite proud myself
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Last edited by quizz_kid; 14th Dec 2012 at 00:15. |
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#96 |
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Retro Fan
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 415
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I love that walnut connector. So much sexy wood. I'm thinking more and more about a wooden case for my first project log =p
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~Intel Core I3 3220 ~8GB Corsair Vengeance 1600Mhz~ CorsairCX600w ~ Asus GTX560ti Direct CUII Core @ 950Mhz Memory @ 2250Mhz ~ P8H77 ~ 128GB Samsung 830 SSD ~ Gelid Tranquillo ~ USB modded NES, Master System, Mega Drive and N64 controllers for Emulation~
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#97 | |
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Squid
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Sweden
Posts: 569
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Small update: ![]() Glued the footstand into the case today ![]() The feet are not mounted into the stand yet, as you may notice the small gap to the left ![]() Another angle ![]() Then I started on the rad. This is my way of mounting it... Spacers painted copper ![]() And these are painted pegs. I found some perfect metal fittings for themounting aswell. Painted them black. Below are some grainy photos of the rad when mounted. I like it very much... ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#99 |
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Fenrir The Wolf
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Sisak,Croatia
Posts: 943
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Wow! O.o
Brilliant idea with rad mounting.
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Cosmos S Reaper L.R.E.C. Scorpio Arya-under construction ROG Crawler-under construction |
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#100 |
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Squid
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Sweden
Posts: 569
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Thanks editor!
Thank you pranja, the solution turned out quite good yes. Difficult to mount a radiator without having pegs from outside |
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