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Old 19th Feb 2013, 21:21   #21
jrs77
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Progress for today. First I went on with cutting out the holes in the aluminum. My good old trusty fretsaw does a wonderful job with this...



After that, it was time for filing again...



While filing, I started glueing the fronts to the boxes, and this is the first one after I took it out of the clamps. The second one is being glued as I type this.



And a picture with the aluminum in place to check if it fits...



Tomorrow I will sand the boxes and file the edges of the aluminum, but basically there's not that much left to do, besides the painting and soldering all the speakers to the crossover.

Painitng could be a problem tho, as it's still subzero in Finland and temps in my workshop are below 10C.
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Old 20th Feb 2013, 19:41   #22
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Question for you guys, as I'm not quiet sure if I should redo the frontplates, and make them bigger like I've done them in the rendering before.



Which one would you choose?
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Old 22nd Feb 2013, 01:18   #23
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Hard to decide, but I think the first one is better.
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Old 22nd Feb 2013, 01:45   #24
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Yup, I prefer the first one as well.
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Old 22nd Feb 2013, 02:48   #25
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how about the second and have a jrs-logo cut-out in the lower section? i can picture it being pretty. in my brain though. which also pictures weird stuff. you decide
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Old 22nd Feb 2013, 12:56   #26
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Thanks for the inputs.

I guess I'll stick with the small front-plate. It might look a little awkward first - which is why I was undecided - but it sets more focus on the speakers and divides the box.

I'm still waiting for the temperatures to rise above zero, so I can start painting. There should be atleast around some 15C in the workshop, so that I can work with the spraycans.
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Old 24th Feb 2013, 16:27   #27
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Yesterday I started with the painting, as it was finally warm enough (15C) in the workshop.

Two layers of white primer were applied, with a 400 grit sanding inbetween and after...



Ghetto paintbooth with oil-radiator



After letting the primer dry for 24 hours, I sanded it down with 400 grit again before applying the two layers of black paint, which again had a 400 grit sanding inbetween and after.

It's not the most perfect finish and has orange peel, but that's something you'd expect when painting at these low temperatures.



The next shot shows what happens when you take a picture 10 minutes after appyling the first layer of clearcoat without deactivating the flash of your camera



And the last shot, where I applied a layer of clearcoat to the brushed aluminum plates aswell. Now it's just waiting for the whole stuff to dry, before I can assemble the speakers.



So far the boxes look quiet nice, allthough the paintjob is not the best, and I'll take better shots of them when I've moved them out of the workshop.
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Old 24th Feb 2013, 18:45   #28
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The paint looks a bit grainy. Did you want it to look like that?
Other than that, nice work!
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Old 24th Feb 2013, 20:59   #29
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As I wrote above. Due to the rather low temperatures of a mere 15C you get this orange peel.

Here's two pictures after the paint has set for a few hours...



You'll notice that I didn't spend too much time sanding it all down to become totally flat. You can see the joint between the pieces of MDF-pieces, but you'll hardly see it when the speakers are placed left and right to the PC-screen. The flash makes it very visible tho.



The brushed and sealed frontplates are very nice tho.

EDIT: Here's two pictures of a frontplate I painted a few years ago, just so you can see what's possible, if you spend more time on the paintjob...



Notice, that the four holes there are 10mm in diameter to get an impression of how bad or good the orange peel is on this piece...



To get the paint really flat, you need to buff and polish it, but I'll never do this actually.
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Old 24th Feb 2013, 21:49   #30
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this is getting really good really like the tiny stuff! looks like 1,5m speakers :P
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Old 24th Feb 2013, 22:29   #31
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This looks great. I think that paint is good.
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Old 24th Feb 2013, 23:22   #32
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I made two macro-shots from 5cm distance to get you a closeup of the finish. It's not that bad really, as it looks on the first pictures.



The diameter of the center-hole is 35mm for comparison. Also note, the colour is really black, but shows dark grey here due to the lightning.

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Old 25th Feb 2013, 00:21   #33
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I love this idea man, I never even considerd building my own speakers.
I might even try this on my Blade Desk
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Old 25th Feb 2013, 00:50   #34
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It's not that hard, if you buy a readymade kit and only have to build the box for the speakers.

There's lot's of places in the interwebs, where you can buy these kits, ranging from entry-level 50 kits up to high-end 2000 ones.
The big brother of the speakers I'm building here - the Vox 200 - for example costs 1500
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Old 25th Feb 2013, 02:40   #35
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Lookin good!
In a year or so I am hoping to build myself some Statements. Definitely not a cheap job.

How is that aluminum with the clear coat over it? Is it noticeable and does it keep a nice durable finish?
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Old 25th Feb 2013, 07:43   #36
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tekonivel - it's over 9000!!!!!!!!1!1!1!!!tekonivel - it's over 9000!!!!!!!!1!1!1!!!tekonivel - it's over 9000!!!!!!!!1!1!1!!!tekonivel - it's over 9000!!!!!!!!1!1!1!!!tekonivel - it's over 9000!!!!!!!!1!1!1!!!tekonivel - it's over 9000!!!!!!!!1!1!1!!!tekonivel - it's over 9000!!!!!!!!1!1!1!!!tekonivel - it's over 9000!!!!!!!!1!1!1!!!tekonivel - it's over 9000!!!!!!!!1!1!1!!!tekonivel - it's over 9000!!!!!!!!1!1!1!!!tekonivel - it's over 9000!!!!!!!!1!1!1!!!
Lookin good. Too bad I missed the poll, would have liked to see those longer alu panels in front.
Keep it up.
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Old 25th Feb 2013, 12:47   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talladega View Post
Lookin good!
In a year or so I am hoping to build myself some Statements. Definitely not a cheap job.

How is that aluminum with the clear coat over it? Is it noticeable and does it keep a nice durable finish?
The clearcoat on those aluminum-parts is just to seal the stuff and prevent corrosion aswell as nasty fingerprints. It's not very noticable, but gives the brushing an even better finish and shine, just like you would see on brushed stainless steel. You just need to be careful not to apply a too thick coat of paint, as this would leave a yellowish stain.

EDIT: Soe shots in daylight, to give you another impression of the paintfinish.

First two shots of the aluminum in comparison to my stainless steel coffee-can...





... and two shots of the boxes.





As I said, the finish isn't the best, but it'll be sufficient for the purpose of standing left and right to the PC-screen.
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Old 25th Feb 2013, 21:40   #38
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Assembling all the stuff.

I shoved the dampening material into the boxes after inserting the front-drivers and the terminal, before I started soldering all the speakers to the crossover. When all was soldered I took a quick test, before I put the crossover into the box aswell as the bass-driver.



I also cut some 3mm foam into pieces and glued it to the bottom of the speakers.

.

Then it was time to test the speakers fully assembled.



Even with only my small Sansa Clip+ and a random selection of electronic, rock and classic these speakers put out alot of sound for their size.

After this test was OK, I assembled the grills for the bass-drivers.



I didn't attach the Visaton-Logos, as they're gold and red, not really matching the colours of my desk.

Anyways, now that I've attached the speakers to my PC I'm listening to some FLAC-files (reference-tracks like "Josh Wink - Higher State of Conciousness", "Samuel Barber - Adagio for Strings, Op. 11" or "30 Seconds To Mars - The Kill") currently to see how good the speakers perform.

These speakers are really great for their size and price-tag. They are clear and neutral, and have enough bass to let the desk vibrate. They're actually better then the Cerwin-Vega! XD3 they're replacing

All in all the result is very pleasing, but I think I'll buy a nuForce Icon 2 next, to see just how much more I can get out of these two speakers
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