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Cooling Moving to WaterCooling!

Discussion in 'Hardware' started by ComputerKing, 23 Sep 2007.

  1. radodrill

    radodrill Resident EI

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    Actually, their blocks are copper; and their fluid has a lot of glycol (engine coolant) to reduce the effects of corrosion. The use of corrosion inhibitors also reduce the effectiveness of a H2O loop; the best is to use pure distilled water with some algecide (e.g. Biocide or PT nuke); close second in performance would be distilled H2O with racing coolant (i.e. Pentosin).

    Truth is: Koolance has erroneously designed a mixed metals loop and is compensating by using an additive with a lot of corrosion inhibitors to try to correct their design flaw.

    QFT
     
  2. MrMick

    MrMick What's a Dremel?

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  3. ComputerKing

    ComputerKing <img src="http://forums.bit-tech.net/images/smilie

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    I notice that All People here go with High-End thing! Mean I have TO spent 350 - 500 $ US or Don't get water cooling! That's is not right...

    Who said that low-End or mid-end hardware, MY friend Play Fifa 2007 and NBA and NHL on His Albatron FX5200 AGP 120MB and working fine and he play very well and score alot of goals each match.

    The This is not the Money or the price... It's how you do it

    Some one can Spent 1000$ on a Computer Mod and it turn out nice, Other one can spent 100$ and it turn out nice too, You not gonna tell the different, Same Some one Buy a Mercedes and Other one Buy Toyota ! Both are Cars, Mercedes is better and nice Toyota is nice too, Inside the city Both run at the same speed and same way. Both have Wheels etc...

    My Point Is what The Different between that 350$ and 150$ Kits! the quality of the build..! lol I want some thing don't work for ever! who know after 1 year maybe I will Get Vapor Cooling! When I bought my hardware I said that I don't want to buy any thing else.. now I will buy only after 6 months. The Point that nothing Stay for ever.

    Because Some people work and earn 50000$ or some thing in months that don't means that every one too! there is a junk dude that get 100$ at months maybe!

    I don't have a problem I can get A LN2 or Vapour or Even 1K$ water Cooling I have the money and I can get What ever I want right now.. This is not the point..

    Guys You don't know me, I'm not idiot or Dumb or Can't understand like some people says, It's all about I try to say what I think in and what I mean. If You don't like me Sorry that You don't.... Also if you think that I can't do it I can, Guys It's not about the money or any thing! only 1 thing It's the Ability..

    I say nice words and I don't be angry From any one.. It's the life, Face good things and bad...

    However, I know that I'm kinda a heavy blood guy on Bit-Tech, and Tons don't like me... But It's okay It's normal Because I'm not American or From UK, It's all Because I'm different and alot of people don't accept different thing..

    Thanks for all. I will do every thing on my OWN and I don't care what will happen, It's my things and life, no one can share it with me..

    I was Wrong to take the Internet in seriously Way.. It's Just Internet, FAKE no thing real!

    Those who flame me I'm very thankful and It's my wrong not yours that I came here and try to live with people Don't accept me..

    That's it.. It, That's all What I was want to say.
     
  4. capnPedro

    capnPedro Hacker. Maker. Engineer.

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    You're still not understanding.

    To continue the car analogy, the Mercedes can drive faster than the Toyota, right? The whole point is you have to spend a decent amount of money on watercooling if you want to get good performance. if you aren't willing to spend a lot of money, then you might as well just stick with some decent air cooling!
     
  5. radodrill

    radodrill Resident EI

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    CK, The point I'm making is that the inexpensive watercooling options don't provide any better performance than a good heat-pipe cooler; and as such it would be wiser (on a cost perspective) to get a heat-pipe than a cheap H2O kit (especially since the heat-pipes are less expensive than cheap H2O). If you really want to reap the benefits of H2O cooling then you really should go with quality components.

    And BTW, the more expensive waterblocks have a lot of microchannels to maximize heat transfer; while cheap ones are generally just a flat plate, which is why their performance is only on pare with a good heat-pipe.

    p.s. I don't have anything against people from different ethnicities (or you personally). If I dislike someone it's because the way they treat me or people in general (e.g. being a SmartA$$, or having an "I'm superior to you" attitude).
     
  6. n00btard

    n00btard Go away

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    Why spend a lot of money on good components? Because low end crap is poorly made, and when you combine that with water in close proximity to a computer...

    ...well, I think you might be smart enough to figure that out.

    You want Thermaltake? Then buy Thermaltake, but don't come crying to me when something goes wrong.
     
  7. Teyber

    Teyber ******

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    laing d5, aka swiftech 665. Many people will recomend the ddc and ddc 3.2, but you need to mod the top for 1/2" tubing. Here read thsi:
    what everyone else said. ill give you abigger post once im done with hw and bike ride.
     
  8. ComputerKing

    ComputerKing <img src="http://forums.bit-tech.net/images/smilie

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    Can't wait ;) for you to know I will with danger den or Aqua computers no less than that.. Let's show the money :yawn:
     
  9. Teyber

    Teyber ******

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    and the thing is you do not want to go cheap with watercooling.

    You can get away with spending 200$ on a cpu only kit, but add in your graphics card and boom, you need bigger rad, waterblock, price jumps to around 300$.

    A 5000/6000 btu chiller might be teh way to go, perhaps include a cpev or txv, or pretty soon i will be entering the phase change building. If you have phase change on the mind, then as soon as you get watercooling you will regret it. I would go straight to phase. If you have the money you might want to try a auto-cascade or dual evap. Or try somethign like mine, i got a 1hp lg compressor, 240mm condensor, r507a, chilly1 evap, and its super cold. Then ive got the rest of my system watercooled(8800gtx's, 680i northbridge...).

    Look, Its cheaper to do it right the first time then to redo it right the second time...
     
  10. Teyber

    Teyber ******

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    swiftech is better then danger den, awua computers IMO is crap....(mostly)
    read my last post though
     
  11. n00btard

    n00btard Go away

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    Aqua Computer isn't crap.
     
  12. ComputerKing

    ComputerKing <img src="http://forums.bit-tech.net/images/smilie

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    swiftech is better then danger den !!!!! lol how come!

    Aqua Computer = Mercedes Benz .. Not Crap ;)
     
  13. radodrill

    radodrill Resident EI

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    The most popular brands are Swiftech, DangerDen, and EK-waterblocks; Aqua Computer and D-tek seem to be quite similar, but aren't as well known.

    Performancewise these companies are quite similar.
    EK full-cover GPU blocks are somewhat less restrictive than the DangerDen.
    In the radiator arena the Swiftech QuietPower radiators have a slight advantage over the Black Ice GTS when using low-cfm fans.

    That said, once you're using quality H2O components you can't go wrong; between different components you'd at most see a difference of 1-2C
     
  14. Mister_Tad

    Mister_Tad Will work for nuts Super Moderator

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    Don't forget about thermochill rads, which pretty much spank anything else out there
     
  15. radodrill

    radodrill Resident EI

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    I don't have any personal experience with the thermochill rads; but certainly anything from Swiftech, Hardware Labs, or Thermochill would be a good choice.
     
  16. Teyber

    Teyber ******

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    and you would know that aqua computer= mec how?
    well, my parents both own pretty high end mercedes, but their 2002. So if mercedes has started pooping in the rad, and putting potatoes in the exaust since then, then let me know!

    jk, but aqua computer= lower end then swiftech, ek, and d-tek,(the best IMO, not includign thermochill), worse then danger den, but better then gigabyte/thermaltake crap. Here, if you wan't to know more about watercooling, go to a more watercooling based forum.
    http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/forumdisplay.php?f=181
    like so.
    Unless yoru going to buy the all silver blocks from aqua computer, then i would stay away. At least in america, they are frowned upon. The silver ones cost $$$$$$$, so you want to stay away.

    Thermochill rads are the best, but IMo unnecesarry unles you want to spend the $$ on it. IMO, the best radiators for the money are the swiftech mcr-320. I think its 55$ now. You will want a 360mm rad for cooling gpu+cpu.
    So rounding, say 50$ for radiator.
    Now pumps. The swiftech 665, danger den d5, and all the similar are ALL THE SAME PUMP. They are made by a company called laing, and rebranded by the listed companies. There are 2 versions: the speed adjustable and fixed speed. Depends on how you deal with noise and your budget. The fixed speed one is i think 70, the adjustable speed one is 90 $. Their are lots of other good pumps, but for a begginer, this offers the lowest hassle/best performance. Peopel go with other pumps for noise, but you can just turn down the speed. So say you go with the 90$ version. Total now is 140$.
    Then the waterblock. For cpu, i would go with the d-tek fuzion or apogee gt or gtx. Havn't done lots of research lately on cpu blocks due to me having a MONSTER phase change on my cpu,(-80c unloaded ss anyone?:jawdrop::jawdrop:) but one of thsoe work. Say you will spend about 60$ on one. Total:
    200$.
    The graphics card waterblock. Many people will recomend a "full cover", but i advice against it. For the fact that you said you want to change hardware often, you will want a veristile waterblock. IMO, the best here is the swiftech mcw-60. Full cover blocks are expensive, unnecesarry, and cannot move on from generation to generation. Just my opinion, as their are some major benifits to them also like ease, and... um. look? you get better temps with a non full cover block. Call it a total of... um, not sure of ramsink prices but say 50 for mcw-60, and 10 or so$ for ramsinks.(anyone have a better suggestion?)

    Then the t-line/resevoir. Either works. Resevoir looks cool. i would spend 20$ for the swiftech micro res.
    So total is........
    around 270$. Then you need barbs, tubing, liquid all teh other stuff. call it between 300$ and 315$.

    Thats about as minimum you can go without cutting corners.
    Hope that helped

    (phase change isn't sounding so bad now is it.... a little nf11fx build, chilly1evap, chilly1 condenser, aitor controller w/ k-type probe, chilly1 fron display, for around 450-500$... and thats a solid build!)

    reed
     
  17. Grings

    Grings I am rubber, you are glue

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    The swiftech kit you think 'sux' is your best bet (and dosent suck), look at the model numbers of each part on their website, and check some reviews of them, hell, the guy who posted above me just recommended nearly every single piece of the kit (for good reason too)
     
  18. Teyber

    Teyber ******

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    ck, id appreciate if you read this CAREFULLY. I didn't spend 25minutes writitng something for you to skim over or disregard. If you want do to watercooling correctly, follow my directions.
     
  19. ComputerKing

    ComputerKing <img src="http://forums.bit-tech.net/images/smilie

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    Teyber That's A nice help for me! Now I really got it! IT's not that bad.. I think I'm going with swiftch

    Hey The site FrozenCPU is trusted ? mean I can buy from them or not ?
     
  20. Guest-23315

    Guest-23315 Guest

    Buy it from Petra's Tech Shop.
     
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