Scratch Build – In Progress Project C-Macc's 2 - Sub zero arcade system..... :)

Thats lovely man. I wished i have space to put 1 at home too.

 

Well ive been pondering over the size of the Cp and to be honist size Vs playabilty is just daft. So i shrunk the CP back down to 2 players and will be building the CP for 2 players only.

Im using Visio to test every thing out but once im ready ill post some more pics of the progress.

There will be 2 players with 7 buttons each, 1 x 4 way stick setup , 1 roller ball and 1 spinner. This will give most configs possible for game play with out expanding the CP to much. 4 player looks cool but its just to big for normal use. Think 4 player is like a man and his massive car, its not needed but helps build up self confidence !!!! lol

 

Some more shots of the Cp Being made . As you can see its changed lol ...

 

Well a massive fu?? Up on my part. while fitting the CP back and forth working on dimensions i caught the spintrak wire and basically ripped it out. The damage is in the pic below.



----------
i didnt know the wire lay out so i took a multi meter and figured it all out.

from left to right ..

Left =5v
next = x1
next = Ground
last = x2

so then i basically i ground down the broken trace then used window quick silver which is the same stuff used for trace repair. left it 5 min then soldered new wires. Tested and working fine .. thank god ...

happy as larry.



this was a big mistake that could have cost me £60 luckily im used to trace repairing on xboxs and all so graphic cards and lucky enough i had the tools at hand to do the repair.

If you ever going to do a trace repair dont ever have a soldering iron hotter than 15 watts else you going to Burn off more trace. I personally have a adjustable soldering iron than can do from .2 watt to 500 watt witch all so has a Blow torch fitted for lifting things such as GPU's (yes i have replaced a GPU at one time when i chipped it when placing a DD WC block on it lol).

 

a few more pics. Still working on the CP just added the base (not permanently though) Did some more work sanding down as you can see from the wood work my skills are real poor but at least im giving it ago. I still need to some how tail the back end off as i relay am not happy at the way it looks at the back end when fitted.

I wont be able to have the draw for the Joy pads but thats fine as i can add one in the main body. Still loads of work to do but pics below any way for you all to lol at my bad wood working stills but good wood filling skills .... lol

Last pic you can see i played with my new router hehehe .. i love its lol .. ill be routing every thing round the home now.

Need to go tidy the kitchen before the lass gets home else shell kill me ...






Routed

 

Been working a little more.

The CP has been Shrunk by 2.5" and the Frame arms have been cut by 2".

The Back peace has now got a False wall of 1.5" to allows cables to be hidden behind it. 1 Shelf inside has been added will do the second and third Hidden shelf for the electrics another time and loads of wood filler has been used again lol ...

Still loads of work to do but shes starting to take shape now.



False wall



Single shelf

 

this is a teaser art work concept .....

 

A bit more work done. The keyboard tray has been made and installed. Cannot fit a side draw for the console pas as there is just not enough room which is just a shame. Started to smooth off the wood for the CP and spray painted the cp with a under count just to protect it for now. Pics below of the work on the cp so far.





Still more work to do but until I get the rest of the parts I need for the CP this is the limit of work I can do for now….. Its now all down to when others can either deliver my parts or finish off the work that ive requested to be done ….

And more work By Ond for my Art work , staill has a long way to go ..

Hr Giger inspired, Sill, alien's, Medusa merged into 1 ........ (looks like im not the only one who likes him on here lol)

 

I have been working on some easy to understand guides for some other users on how to install some different PCB's for Mame systems and Jamma Arcade systems. Thought id post them here in case some one may find a use for them. Ill add more as i make them ...

J-Pac Guide



2 Player I-Pac



Pac Drive



Opti Pac Guide

 

the mini pac - complex little bugger it is to work out

 

Mini Pac updated above.

all so this is the ext version of the mini pac guide to help people out.....

Mini - Pac Wiring Guide

By Mayhem

40 Pin Connector x = polarizing Key
________________________________________________________________

-- 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 --
-- x 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 --
________________________________________________________________

40 Pin Connector numbered - X = polarizing Key

_________________________________________________________________
-- 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 --
-- X 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29 31 33 35 37 39 --
_________________________________________________________________

X = polarizing Key
2 = Ground Wire
3 = 2 Player Switch 8
4 = 2 Player Switch 7
5 = 1 Player Switch 8
6 = 1 Player Switch 7
7 = 2 Player Switch 6
8 = 2 Player Switch 5
9 = 2 Player Switch 4
10 = 2 Player Switch 3
11 = 2 Player Switch 2
12 = 2 Player Switch 1
13 = 2 Player Joystick Down
14 = 2 Player Joystick Up
15 = 2 Player Joystick Right
16 = 2 Player Joystick Left
17 = 1 Player Switch 6
18 = 1 Player Switch 5
19 = 1 Player Switch 4
20 = 1 Player Switch 3
21 = 1 Player Switch 2
22 = 1 Player Switch 1
23 = 1 Player Joystick Down
24 = 1 Player Joystick Up
25 = 1 Player Joystick Right
26 = 1 Player Joystick Left
27 = 2 Player Start Switch
28 = 1 Player Start Switch
29 = 2 Player Coin Switch
30 = 1 Player Coin Switch
31 = Mouse Right Switch
32 = Mouse Left Switch
33 = Spinner x2 (Left)
34 = Spinner x1 (right)
35 = Trackball TY 2 (Down)
36 = Trackball TY 1 (Up)
37 = Trackball TX 2 (Right)
38 = Trackball TX 1 (left)
39 = Unknown
40 = Ground 1

10 Pin Connector x = polarizing Key

___________________
-- 0 0 0 0 0 --
-- x 0 0 0 0 --
___________________

10 Pin Connector numbered - X = polarizing Key

____________________
-- 2 4 6 8 10 --
-- x 3 5 7 9 --
____________________

X = polarizing Key
2 = +5 Volts (3)
3 =
4 =
5 = Ground (3)
6 = Ground (2)
7 = +5 Volts (2)
8 = +5 Volts (1)
9 =
10 =

 

Time for a small Update.

Well i have put in the shelfs and allso been working on the Doors for the front.

Here you can see the work done on the front.





I then did the door with White plastic Spay can undercoat as per OMDs build logs and then the surrounding frame with black plastic under coat. Once that had dried i used Grit 2000 wet and dry and sanded down . I then did a fine mist of white on the black and black on the white and again rubbed it down with 2000 Grit wet and dry. This revealed a fair few dimples and large deep air lines marks on the wood so i filled them and sanded it down again. I then re undercoated it all.

Iafter 24 hours in the airing cupboard and a pre warning to every one in the house to stay out i then pulled them out to find a grate big dent across one of the door (was i annoyed i think so) My kids had thrown in some plastic toys and damaged them ...

So again after filling and redoing the under coat and another 24 hours i then used Gloss white car spay paint on the doors and Matt black on the frame work. And again after sanding down with 2000 Grit wet and dry and re doing it all again a few times i then left them 24 hours to harden ad dry but this time i fitted a lock on the airing cupboard to stop any mishaps lol ....
#
Once the 24 hours was up i then re sanded them down with 2000 grit wet and dry and applied several coats of clear Lacquer and left them for 8 hours and then wet and dried and re lacquered them. Once that was done and dryed after 24 hours i then fitted the locks.

I still need to polish them but ill do that laster on. Pics below ...

 

Just been asked what paints i used well they are normal spay cans and its not easy turn a realy bumpy peace of wood into what know looks like solid plastic lol .. here are the pic of the cans in case any one else would to try it ..



The Paint was the following

hycote -

Plastic Coat black Filler / primer
Plastic Coat white Filler / primer
Matt Black Acrylic
Gloss White Acrylic
Clear Lacquer Acrylic

 

Looks awesome..

 

thank you. Ive now T-Cutted the dooe and frame and alls o polished them up. they look real nice. tried taking a photo but hahaha my camera will not focus on them close up.

 

Just placed a order for this.




Looking forward to implementing this into the CP.

 

I had to change the moniter to a VGA connection version.

So i have orderd this from http://www.carcomputer.co.uk/

Lilliput EBY701-NP/C/T



Now for the specs

Specifications:

MODEL:EBY701-NP/C/T
COLOR SYSTEMAL-4.43 / NTSC-3.58
DISPLAY SCREEN: Diagonal 7 inches/ 178mm (15:9)
DOTS PIXELS:1152000 pixels(800*480)
AUDIO OUTPUT: ≥100mW
CONTRAST RATIO:200:1
BRIGHTNESS: 400cd/m2
VIEWING ANGLE: 45/60(U/D),65/65(L/R)
INPUT VOLTAGE: DC 11-13V
POWER CONSUMPATION: ≤10W
DIMENSION (mm): 192×115×30


Now after much research i found that the 800*480 is just the moniters Res. Ill be running it at 800*600 giving me full scope to run it with GameEX.

Ill post more info and pics of this excelent peace of eqipment once it arrives.

 

Working on another panel, this time its the base panel.

Again we start buy getting a send belt sander and then using 100 Git run it over the whole board. This rips up the rubbish revealing all the pits and tears and holes. Then using filler i fill what i can see and trust me what i can see is only half of what is there.

Pic's of the wood before i start -





First set of filler layerd down






Then i sand it down with set and dry 180 Grit and then take another look. Again there is still loads of pits and holes so off i go again filling and sanding. I had to do this 5 times and it took about 3 hours to do.

1st coat of filler / primer and again more filler.





3rd primer filler and sanding.



Once i was fairly happy i then used Prim filler and undercoat from a spay can and then give it a good spay over. I do this 4 times at 15 min intervals. Once its dried i look again and fill all the holes and pits with filler and then again sand down with 180 grit wet and dry. Once the ready i then layer over 3 more coats of filler / primer. This takes about 40 min to do. And again I look for more pits and holes and marks and again i do the same as before. All in all its takes about 12 hours to do to get its close as possible to what i would call near flat.

5th sander filler and priming....




On the 5th time ive moved to 400 grit wet and dry sand paper.

Getting there ....

 

I just read an article about arcade-gaming centers and that they're closing down one after another because everyone has a PC and is playing at home or via internet.

Your project is the last nail in the coffin for those gaming-centers