Scratch Build – In Progress ProtoHype - (paused)

Best Drive Mod Evah!

... not to be a spoilsport, but did you test the drive for actually reading the data as well as spinning up?

Nightshots, please!

 

I first tried with a heat resistant (600c) car engine paint. It is a very thin paint and that gives a verry smooth and nice finish that looks almost identical to black anodized alu. That paint needs to cure att a temperature of 250C and since the some of the parts I used was anodized, they couldn't take the temperature and the anodized surface started to crack. Therefore I had to use a normal matte black spray paint. I didn't use any primer at all. But I recomend you try the car engine paint if you don't use anodized alu. The results are great and somehow dust doesn't stick to the wet paint as on normal paint.

Thanks

Thanks..wouldn't mind that

Thanks a lot.
No, you got me. At the time of shooting I was in a hurry for a train and didn't have the time to try the reading or take any nightshots. So.. there is still an aportunet that it is not fully working, but ince I have been very carefull with the sensitive electronic parts I am quite qonfident that it will work. If thats not the case.. well I guess I'll bye a new drive and refit the top and wish for better luck.

 

Hi again.
Been a while since the last update. This is mainly because the progress has been slow because I'm currently only able to work on this project on the weekends.
But I've managed to gather a bunch of pictures of what has been done and I'm sorting them out at the moment. But while that is being done I thought I should post the requested nightshots of the dvd-drive in action. I have also tested the drive for reading and it works fine without any problems.

It was really hard to capture the true effect of the led light. The real color is too red for the camera to pic up and it gets a more orange color. This is really anoying Because the light is a nice deep red in reality. Untill I get hold of a better camera (tried 2 already) these pics will have to do.

Drive bay open...

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..and closed, with the activity LED ring flashing.

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thats it untill I've sorted out the rest of the pictures. Not much of an update, but atleast it was something

 

That just looks amazing. As a rule I tend not to put optical drives in my rig, but I'd have that any day.

 

That looks fantastic, a bloody awesome result, very nice.

 

Thanks guys
Glad you like it even though the pictures aren't that greate.

 

Must. Keep. Watching.

Very nice work so far. Can't wait to see this when it is done!

 

That drive is simply amazing Exciting stuff!

 

@ Akkatha and Interloper

thanks for the very nice comments..

I've finally been sorting some pics out and it's now time to show some progress of the chassi work. Won't say much exept that I know that some of the bits and pieces could probably have been made in a much more effective way. When creating this case I have realised that using 90 degre L profiles can sometimes result in some complications e.g in the corners. Next time I vill most likely use solid square rods to save some time and headache.

Anyway here are the pics..

Some alu L bar reshaping in the mill..

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When trying to pop rivet the parts together I realized there was a slight broblem. Couldn't get in to the base with the plier...

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I had to use the lathe to create a small extender out of steel.. If you create something like this you will have to make shure it is not too long since then the plier won't get a good grip of the rivet. This is about as long as my plier can handle.


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And it works like a charm and I have been using it on almost all rivets since most of them are in cramped places.


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Here is the internal bottom side plate and its mounting brackets. One of them is black because it was part of a previous solution that once it was painted, turned out not to work. Don't worry, the rest of the case parts will allso be painted and anodized black once they are all done.

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This is part of the PSU holder riveted in place...

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..and here is the other part of the psu holder mounted in the chassi.

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Bottom plate brackets mounted in the chassi..

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..and here the bottom plate has been added.

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The bottom plate will be mounted using M3 nutts. That means the 1,5mm thin L brackets that will hold the plate needs to bee threaded. And since I often screw up those threads, because I can't hold the thread tap in a 90degree angle, I did this little tool. I used my drillpress to drill a 90degree hole, the same size as the tap, in a spare peace of aluminium

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Now the thread tap is always 90degree to the hole and the threads are perfectly straight. Very usefull for thin materials where you only have one try..

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PSU backplate being fabricated the good old style..

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Riveted in place..

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Time for a test fit of the PSU.. it's a 580w Hiper-R for those wondering.

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And here it is from the back. The Fan guard is Removed as you can see but will be added later along with the mounting holes for the PSU

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Hope you like it.
All comments and criticism are more than welcome.

 

I really like your rivet adapter, very nice idea, they should sell those lol.

 

I also like the adapters. Also, nicely done with the alu angles. Very inspirational riveting work!

 

Nice work man!

 

haha yeah they really should, hm...maybe I should go get some patent lol.

Thanks guys. Well Javerh, if you like riveting work I can assure you that there is more to come.

 

Very nice work so far! I admire the ingenious jig making (like the rivet adapter and tap guide!)
It's looking very nice.

Oh yeah, and thanks for the nightshots of the cd! How did you hold your leds for milling? Just in the vise?

 

Very nice, clean work gnu. But you can forget about a patent for the gun
extender. I had the same problem when making Dual PC MK3, and a forum reader,
GAM, gave me the solution.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa59/oldnewby/dual pc mk3-7/006.jpg

 

Thanks for the nice comments.
The leds where clamped in the vise with some rubber padding on the sides to help keep them in place. But that didn't stop me from hearing a small crack when tightening the vise. Turned out the I managed to crack one of the leds but the crack was so small that the led was still usable. Then I milled them very carefully.

Thanks, not as clean as yours but Im glad you like it

Holy crap.... a deluxe brass edition with variable rivet shaft size. That's some kick ass tool

 

Okay
Time for another update..

Today it is time to improve the rigidity of the case. Especially the part where the DVD-drive and the harddrives + harddriveblocks will be mounted. This is mainly becasue I reallised that there will be some serious weight and stress on some of the parts and I want to make shure that it alls stays stable

Finally, there is some milling.
But first I need some material. This is the two aluminium squareblocks I purchased for this build. The dimentions are 20x200x1000mm and 10x200x1000mm and almost all of it will be used in this build.

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Some of the 10mm alu was cut..

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Clamped in the vice and the milling could begin.

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First milling session is done.

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Test fitting the support brackets...

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..and realised that I need some room for some connections.
Wha that board's for?.. well you'll have to wait and see if you can't figure it out by your self..


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The groove is taking shape.

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Drilled some holes on the other support brackets as well and some adjustments with the mill

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Now there is enough room for the connections..

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Rivet in place from the backside

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This is how I cut the pannels. Using a jigsaw annd an alu ruller.

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As I predicted, there was some nasty gap between the pannel and the motheroard tray (to the right in the picture). Even though it probably won't be vissible once the Motherboard is mounted, I can't stand the knowledge of it being there.

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Fabricated a small part from an L-alu part using the mill. I thought for shure it would bend in the middle but I managed to pull it of. The reason it is black is because I't was intended for another use and since the whole case will be black, it won't matter.

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This is how it will be mounted..with rivets.

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Test fitting the panel

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now thats better..

Drilled some holes and did some taping and here the plate is testfitted using m3 hex-bolts. Those hex-bolts stand out cuite a lot and they are only there temporarely. Will change them to some flat head screws.

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there you go.

 

Taking shape very nicely. Custom Aluminum parts Cheesecake!!!!

 

That's some very nice machining work done there, nice job .

 

Alu = Win Although mine's entrirely steel

Looking good!