It might be worth (though, as always, best searching for empirical data) putting CPU-->RAD1-->VGA-->RAD2 so that the GFX isn't getting warm coolant from the CPU
I'm not 100% sure about this, as I said earlier i'm still learning, but say you have a HD5950 in the loop then that's an additional heat dump of 180W(?). I'm fairly sure that 2 x 240 Rads will easily cope with that providing the fan speed is around 1400rpm or greater no matter where the Rads are in the loop. As I say I'm not really certain however I'm adding my HD4870 to my loop in the next couple of days and for ease of fitting I'm initially going to put it immediately after the CPU block. My setup will be Pump>480>240>CPU>GFX>Res. When I've time though in the next week or so I'll redo my loop - Pump>480>CPU>240>GFX>Res and see what difference, if any, it makes.
what like this? so PUMP-->RAD 1-->CPU-->RAD2-->VGA-->RES-->PUMP btw ive nearly finished selecting/sourcing my componants gona start buying to tomoro if i get some thumbs up from here, just the fans left to decide on. Pump/Res Top: http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/1...W-MCP355wXSPC-Acrylic-Tank-Reservoir_394.html 76.61 Rads: 2 x Thermochill PA120.2 £112.38 CPU Block: Apogee XT £56.95 GPU Block: (on the way) Tubing: 1/2"ID - 3/4"OD UV Green (2.5M) £12.96 Coolant: Deionised Water + Biocide £3.59 , £3.59 Fittings: 4 x 3/8" to 1/4" Reducer (For Rads) £13.96 2 x 1/4" Bitspower Twin 45 Degree £20.22 12 x 1/2" Compression Fittings £77.61 Fans: 2 x Yate Loon (Thick ones) £9.80 For the outside rad For the inside rad ive chosen these, 2 x AC Ryan BlackFire4 (Inside Rad) £14.40 or 2 x Enermax Apollish 120mm Blue Fan (if it does what it says in the specs....) £11.85 Total Cost: £402.07 i budget £50-70 for the gpu block wen there eventually made...so over all about £460-470, so 60 or 70 odd over budget, but cmon who has ever stuck to budget? lol thats about it guys, just the fans left to decide on so any suggestions plz post, also will be waiting on the gpu block (i know it might be a while....) but gona start buying and modding the pc once all the bits arrive.
Before you order the compression fittings I'd be tempted to order a meter of the tubing (or ask for a couple of feet as a sample) and just make sure in a practice fit that it will give the right curve radius that'll work with your case. Seeing as you're spending that much, spend an extra fiver and get a kill coil http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=11143&cat=1227&page=1
yea i was gona get a kill coil to put in my res but i thought with fesers deionised + biocide i wudnt need it, but if it helps then sure. & with regards to curve radius i wasnt gona actully buy all 12 compression fittings i was gona get all the parts first, place them in my comp and see where a 90 degree solution wud be better i.e the vga card or one port on the res/pump etc, but for the most part it will be those normal ones. also elf can u do me a fav n post the results of your lil expermient on this thred?, it will give me an idea on which loop formation to choose from.
Will do although it might be a couple of weeks before it's done and tested. Don't spend extra on the Feser distilled. Use de-ionised water available from Motor Factors or Halfords which is also free from salts, mineral debris, and water pollution. Both will suffer from ion transfer over time from the copper and silver in the loop. The bottle of PT PHN Nuke should last you years
ok cool, it was just where feser is claiming to be 100 times les conductive then regular deionised water sold me.... but if its just e-jargon then regular it is, i get my deionised water from my local petrol garage (texaco) cant afford that expensive stuff from halfords and dw i wont be anywhere in two three weeks, ill probally have had the side panel off by then...lol + im gessin that gpu block is gona take the P*** who knows when nvidia will get thier ass's in gear....and when sum1 will make a block for it neways hows blue on green for a colour scheme?
Guys last couple question, just wana make sure i got this right.... will the PA120.2 24mm better perform with a 120x120x38mm fan? (thicker ones) and is the PA120.2 15mm better sutied with normal 120x120x20mm fans? also will two normal PA120.2 15mm with normal fans proivde sufficient cooling?
Hello. Lemme help a bit. How about controlling system. You should know your water temperature and check if the water is flowing. IMO after two years running any water cooling system start to have probs But any time you should know what is really going on I want to recommend this: Flow TX Plus My experience: Always keep water level a bit higher than alarm level so if it is leaking the alarm will shout off and you will have enough time to pull the plug(for normal coolant only, your nonconduct coolant may make it alarm all day) For a RES with alarm I recommend: Aquabay M5 You know everything is not perfectly clean so the nonconduct coolant if leaked alway has risk. Good luck & Godspeed PS: and keep the tube's ends straight (clamped, to reduce the force on it). They will broke first after two years
I believe that 38mm fans generally have more static pressure so would provide better cooling. You could make shrouds for 25mm fans by dismantling old unused/knackered ones. Be careful with the screw lengths when fitting fans it's easy to punch a hole through a rad by mistake. As I've said earlier I'm still learning about watercooling but one thing I have learnt is NEVER use Thermaltake watercooling products.
Results as promised. I've now fitted my HD4870 GPU with a waterblock. The RAM and VRM's are cooled by heatsinks. Prime95 load has increased the CPU temperature by no more than 2ºC with the GFX at idle.
thanks for that. which order is your loop in? 1: pump > rad 1 > rad 2 > cpu > gfx > res > pump 2: pump > rad 1 > cpu > rad 2 > gfx > res > pump
Pump>Rad>Rad>CPU>GFX>Res I used Furmark to put an 80% load on the GPU and ran Prime 95 and got a 4ºC increase in CPU temperature compared to just the CPU on its own. GPU temperature at that load is 16ºC above ambient (which is a lot, lot better than I expected). I only ran it for an hour though.
Lol, agreed I dremelled mine to make them the right length, having almost made said booboo. Regarding loop order, I've trawled the net and there is, alas, a lot of useless rubbish on the forums about this. I would expect the radiator to give out the coolest water, so I would do it as in FxFu$IoN's second diagram.
lol Frohicky, n ty elf for the info. well i think thats about it ive got everything i need (i hope) just got a couple question about some case mods, theres a pro illustration below of what i plan on doing it was designed using a top secret program which is better then that wanabe design software autocad pppfffft what a joke...neway.... got a couple questions bout case mods/rads can the fans be attached to both side of the rad? also i plan on attaching the rad to the back of the case where the internal fans are pusing air out will i have to put the fans im going to attach to the rad inbetween the case and rad i.e. refer to figure 69 below. - im gessing the case grill for the internal fans are going to decrease performance and if i attach the fans for the rad so there sucking air out of it it wont be as effective. Figure - 69
I'll be tidying up my loop in the next week or so and will be redoing it as above mainly because it'll look better if I re-route the tubing. I don't think it'll have a great impact though. Once the water gets up to a constant temperature I can't see it being more than a couple of degrees cooler at most once it leaves the radiator compared to it going in. I've no temperature sensors though to test that one way or the other.
You can have fans in push/pull and will probably get slightly increased cooling performance. If you're bothered about the airflow being affected by the case fan grilles either remove them if that's possible or cut them out.
If you are using the thinner fans I'd do push and pull, otherwise a single set of thicker fans should do fine. As for push vs pull, that's another forum minefield
