Cooling ATI 5870 Water Cooled High Temps 90c

I would say my CPU is high due to thermal paste. I get 38-35-37-36 when idle. As for the rads here they are:
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/XSPC-RS360-Radiator-Black-_42.html
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/XSPC-RS240-Radiator-Black-_67.html

I think I am going to drain the system, check the GPU block, lap the CPU and make sure both have the correct thermal paste. If I get high temps again then I give up and I will run the system with high temps. I cant spend any more money on this PC for a 2nd loop which is why I didn't have one in the first place.

Thanks for all your help.

 

Those rads aren't the best but should be equal in total to a good triple. What I would suggest is to leave out the chipset blocks from the loop when you redo it just in case they're causing restriction affecting your flow rates.

Unless you have a deformed IHS then lapping the CPU might not get you much, if any improvement (and invalidates the warranty).

Good luck.

 

35-40c should be idle max really

45-50c should be a maximum really on cpu

gpu temps is based on cooling setup

i avr 50c under load on both cpu and both gpus

anymore above that and you may as well go on air as its pretty much the same thing. temp wise

 

Sounds like the flow isn't working right, to me.

I don't mean to sound condescending, but it genuinely sounds like there's a hiccup with contact on the blocks/parts, and a serious flow issue.

I'd check, as has been mentioned, that something daft isn't occurring with flow direction. I seriously doubt you're having head heigh issues, or "too small a pump" syndrome..

I know my temperature experience is well out of date (I last fooled around with W/C back when 3870's were new) and even then with just a dual 120 and a single 120, two overclocked cards and an overclocked cpu I wasn't seeing those kinds of temperatures.

 

To anyone saying 100% load temperatures on a core i7 should be under 50, thats plain wrong. Unless your running San Ace or Delta fans at 3000RPM, your not going to get temperatures like that unless you run it a stock frequencies and 1.2V. The moment you touch 4.0GHz and the required voltage, you'll be looking at temperatures in the high 50's or slightly higher depending on ambient.

 

I don't think anyone's been commenting on load temps of under 50ºC at anything other than stock settings?

liratheal - I think, since your days of watercooling that CPU and particularly GPU full cover blocks have got a lot more restrictive.

 

Hi, ok so I am ready to drain the whole thing. I really need to know what you think I should check when its drained. Now talking with my dad I am going to hopefully sort a few issues with inlets and outlets to help with air been trapped. I have got them mixed up on NB and GPU. This means the inlet is at the top and outlet at the bottom.

Here are a few images to help aid with finding the problem.
http://www.robyholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/S7001543.jpg
http://www.robyholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/S7001547.jpg
http://www.robyholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/S7001548.jpg
http://www.robyholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/S7001553.jpg
The top rad is the 360 and the front rad is 240mm. Its in the following order:
Res>Pump>NB>Mosfet 1>Mosfet 2>CPU>Rad 360>GPU>Rad 240>Res

The North Bridge is the hard one as it might still hold water once I've drained it. So I will have to do it when the computer on its side from under it. Trick one that. Should I get a flow meter or not worth it? I know the pump is sniping at 3800RPM. Also any other tips to help with flow / cooling?

 

A lot of them do look to have done that, aye, but the large majority of the EK line seem to have remained much the same, going by a cursory glance at the EK line - I stand a fair chance of being wrong, not having use 'em though

My main concern for flow restriction are the smaller blocks, though, for reasons I'm sure you're aware of

Edit:

Personally, I'd switch the tubing around a little bit, so the flow isn't going up and down - The way it is now, the water is being pumped up to the NB, down through the NB, and back up. If you were to pump it into the lower barb of the NB, then the flow is less.. Obtuse. Path of least resistance and all that.

It wouldn't make drastic enough a difference to cause the temperatures you're getting though. It could potentially do with a bleeding, but given the black hose it's rather difficult to tell

Personally, I never found flow meters to make a fat lot of difference, other than more resistance. I doubt the flow rate is the issue - Given that the pump is capable of ~400LPH at a maximum head height of ~4m, you should be fine on the rate front.

However, if there's a lot of air in the top radiator - Which there stands a chance of being, depending how you filled it (Going on my experience with those res', bloomin' carefully is my bet) - then you might not be seeing a fat lot of actual cooling going through that radiator. It shouldn't be the case, being as I said, there shouldn't be an issue with head heights there.

I must confess, I think my concerns over flow are a little drastic, looking at the pc now.

What coolant are you using?

 

I know the black tubing and blocks make it hard, but I see loads of cases with black tubing and blocks and they looks mint. Its a trade off I think. Just looking at flow sensors now, do any of you have any I should look at?

I will change the system bit by changing the NB, also the GPU, but what to on the GPU? Should I just swap the inlet and outlet, both on top? What config is best for flow and to remove air? Could you even put the NB in with the GPU? So its Mosfets>CPU>Rad>NB>GPU? or wouldn't it matter?

 

It shouldn't make a big difference with mixing up the inlet/outlet on the NB. According to the EK manual you can use any port for inlet and outlet on the GFX block.

Are the fans on the top rad sucking cool air into the case or blowing warm air out through the rad (same for the dual rad). It will make a difference although not massive if they're blowing warm air through the rad(s).

Is the CPU block orientated the correct way? It again won't make a big difference but it helps sometimes to get an improvement.

Are you rotating and shaking the case to get rid of air bubbles, it can take a while for them to disperse.

Can anyone who's familiar with that pump and pump top confirm the inlet and outlet are correct?

 

I hope that helps, looked at a few flow sensors but they all mention restriction. some are 'High flow' but they don't sound to good really? Anyone use them? Electronic or not?

 

Hey, if I had W/C now I'd go black tubing too

In my ideal world, I'd go for the hottest thing first. It's probably just personal preference, as the coolant doesn't change temperature THAT much once the machine's kicked into life and started doing things. I always tended to go Res>Pump>GPU1-2>NB>Mos>CPU>rad>res

I'd agree with the EK manual on a horizontal case, where inlet/outlet were the same height, but when the water's going up, then down, then back up I have my doubts as to its flow efficiency.

If I'm not much mistaken, that is the correct orientation for the pump with that top on it.

 

You see I thought coolest first as you don't want to take heat from something like CPU to the NB as it should be hotter. But as this is the first PC i have built with temp sensors on the water I can see if doesn't really matter what goes were, as the temps are all pretty much the same.

Just given the PC a good shake and lifted it so it was on its side, but it tends to start grabbing air from the tank. The tank is pretty much full when its switched off, so I don't know why it gets air in it. As for the NB and GPU pipes, I will change them, but I am waiting to here what everyone else suggests so I can try it all at once and don't have to keep emptying the loop.
Thanks for feedback

EDIT: I have tested the CPU block, rotating it increases the temp from 31c to 35c in BIOS, so I think that's fine. Just needs less thermal paste I think.

EDIT2: Just looking in the top of the res, its looks like there is a lot of bubbles/form? Hard to see with it been in the case. Very odd.

 

:BUMP:

Still looking for advice.

 

Did a strip down, clean, flush and rebuild make no difference?

 

Probably u should try to check flow issues by connecting an inlet but a free outlet to major components: rad, blocks.. so as to narrow down the problematic component...

 

I don't want to strip is down yet until I have all the idea's, but by looks of its there have run out.

I really don't think flow is a issue, the water is flowing fast back in to the tank. My dad suggested I fill the tank fully as the flow was so much back in to the tank it was putting air in the system. I have done this and it worked, all the air is out.

I will try and strip it down tomorrow but will let you guys know. Thanks

 

your piping looks a tad messy and could be restricting air flow in all honesty. Which would be your issue over flow rate of the water. which is likely not the issue as if the pump is doing 3800 rpm thats pretty high to begin with.

the bottem fan for example has 2 pipes in the way of air flow

the cpu fan is once again covered in pipes

lots of chris crossing of pipes is restricting air flow i may be wrong but thats what i personally think it is

gl

 

something isnt right ... Ive a loop set up with two 360's in ..cooling a Q6850 and 2x 295s and the motherboard and it evens out at 54 degrees (cpu and GPUs)
Have you got the fans blowing out of the case or directing air back into the case ?