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Scratch Build – In Progress Project Quintessence - 29Jun-She's Live- CPU Magazine!

Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by voigts, 2 Mar 2010.

  1. Waynio

    Waynio Relaxing

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    I chose the cheapest variable speed once I could find, but it's supposed to be able to take pinless blades with an adapter which I contacted them about but they sent me the exact same adapter it already had :duh: & theres no way I can figure out how to use the pinless blades, think it was a bad purchase really, should have gone for a draper one, instead I went with axminster :rolleyes: in the manual it shows how to use & change pinned blades & only mentions it can use pinless with an adapter :grr:.

    :D Dedication :thumb:.
     
  2. Fedmas

    Fedmas Leader of the casemod watchers :D

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    Now that's precision work ^^
     
  3. voigts

    voigts What's a Dremel?

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    Thank you. As for the patience, I think determination is more the motivation on this. I really want to get the side panels done so I can start really making this look like a case. I do think however that when it comes especially to scratch builds, if you don't have patience, forget even going there. Scratch builds take lots and lots of patience.

    Thanks Alex. I'm pleased with how the side panel scrollwork turned out. I was concerned that I'd have issues with voids in the plywood, but thankfully, there are none and it is all solid. Like your painting, you wouldn't think just by looking at it how long it takes to get things done.

    I can see that it might take an adapter, but there surely has to be a way to use the pinless blades. Even apart from scrollwork, I use the thing a lot.

    Thanks Fedmas. I try to stick as close as possible to the pattern as I can, but even doing so, it takes a good bit of filing to smooth things out and try to make them look like you want. The gratifying part is knowing that I made it myself, and no CNC or laser can exactly reproduce what can be done by hand like this. A laser can only cut 1/8" thick material without charring, and a CNC has to rely on round bits which can't cut the thin channels in this pattern.
     
  4. wahoomcdaniel

    wahoomcdaniel Minimodder

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    The reference to plywood surprised me, but thinking about it more, the sides would require more support than other areas of the case. Did you veneer red oak to a plywood panel for the sides?
     
  5. Cheapskate

    Cheapskate Insane? or just stupid?

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    Awesome scroll work! Are the barbs ABS? You could have made them permanent with the solvent glue or (black label) clear PVC glue.
     
  6. voigts

    voigts What's a Dremel?

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    The only way to get side panels that won't warp is to use plywood. I just used 1/4" red oak plywood.

    Thanks Cheaps. I bought the rad used, and it just came with those Swifty barbs in it. I plan on removing them and using Bitspower barbs with it. Personally, I'm not a big fan of plastic barbs.


    I got the side panels sanded down to the correct length and width today. I always leave just a little bit extra when cutting stuff to account for imperfections. Although I can get close, there usually is something just a little out of square.
     
    Razer2007 likes this.
  7. Razer2007

    Razer2007 Building Proxima

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    Hey vogits, this is awesome! You actually deserved to win that Mod of the Month we were in :)

    Can you please tell me what wood that is, how thick it is, and if it is solid. Is all the wood you use the same? My next project will have wood in, and I am already getting everything.


    EDIT:

    OK ok ok ok ok I just went through the whole log again. Awesome! Don't you use the motherboard tray anymore? Do want to get rid of it? :D

    I can unfortunately not give you any more rep now, even if I want to. really really really. I think this case is like, your baby!
     
    Last edited: 6 Apr 2011
  8. voigts

    voigts What's a Dremel?

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    Thanks for the kind feedback. As for the mod of the month, you deserved to win and did. The vote count spoke for itself.

    I am using red oak. The front panel, top panel, and trim use 3/4" thick. The side panels are made out of 1/4" thick red oak plywood. You really do want to use all the same wood type as otherwise, you will have issues when staining. I also would not recommend using any softer woods like pine. I learned the hard way that they dent far too easily.

    As for the motherboard tray, I'm hanging on to it. I'm sure I'll end up using it again for a template if for nothing else. Performance-pcs is the place to go for this.


    I'm working on getting the side panels mounted. I'm very glad in that I've come up with a way that won't involve any screws in the panel through the side. :clap:
     
  9. Razer2007

    Razer2007 Building Proxima

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    Thanks! Red oak? I'll remember that one for when I go look for wood. I have seen that performance PC's sell it, but the shipping is killing me. I live in South Africa, so all tho non standard parts are hard to obtain.

    Hoping for the best, so mod on!
     
  10. voigts

    voigts What's a Dremel?

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    Side Panels Mounted

    The one detail that I had not figured out during this entire build was how to mount the side panels. I wanted to mount them so that no screws, etc. would be visible from the side. After batting around several ideas, and a trip to the wonderful local ACE hardware store (what would I do without them), I figured out how to mount the side panels. I decided to mount them the same way that most cases mount them, namely by sliding into place and securing from the back. I found some handy 1/8” plastic mirror mounts, and with the help of some small rubber stick-on pads, they hold the front of the panels perfectly.

    [​IMG]

    I had some scrap U channel, and cut it to make a mounting piece for the right side.

    [​IMG]

    Here's the right side mounted.

    [​IMG]


    On the left side, I had to work around the PSU, so I couldn't use a solid piece. The spacing away from the side of the case was a bit different than the left side, which necessitated me recessing two of the mounting pieces into the side panel. Since this was too thin to use screws to secure. I fell back on my old last resort- Gorilla glue. This stuff is incredible. Those little pieces aren't going anywhere.

    [​IMG]

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    Here it is mounted.

    [​IMG]

    Since 16 gauge alu doesn't hold screw holes well, I used my old trick of using JB Weld to secure nuts onto the backside of the back panel for the side panel mounting screws. I will sand these even and clean them up when I take everything apart prior to painting.

    [​IMG]


    To support the top of the side panels in case they get hit, I put a piece of cut and sanded alu U channel.

    [​IMG]

    Bottom Wiring Piece

    On looking at the bottom of the case and thinking about wiring, it dawned on me that if I made a support piece to fit between the bottom radiator airchannel and the side, I could use that empty space to stuff wiring. I'm all about having easy places to hide wiring. I drilled some holes in the bottom just to make sure the PSU gets plenty of air as this is the area where it will be drawing its intake from.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I plan on making one more piece to hide wiring, and then I think it will be finally time to start sanding/disassembling/priming/painting. Its hard to believe that the end may starting to come into focus.

    Thanks for stopping by.
     
  11. Stem83

    Stem83 Addicted to modding.

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    its easy to see just how much effort and time has been spent here already, totally respect your efforts. cant wait to see it finished.
     
  12. AnG3L

    AnG3L Ultimate Modder

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    There are only few worklogs that I actually read every word, mostly cause not everything I see has that wow factor in them. When I start reading this update I said to myself "alex, this is how the pro work". I wont say this looks good this looks amazing. I will say though that I cant find something that is not amazing! Excellent work as always bro, please give us some more info on the sliding pieces and even some close up pictures please!!! Mod on bro you are the best! :)
     
  13. voigts

    voigts What's a Dremel?

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    Thanks a lot for your support Alex. You speak way too highly of me to be sure. I look at my work and see all of the mistakes and little things that are off.

    The pieces I used are just standard square 1/8" plastic mirror clips. I would have used metal ones, but couldn't find them with a 1/8" space, only 1/4". The alu is about 1/16" thick, so a 1/8" gap with a rubber sticker fits perfectly. Sorry for all of the US measurements, but well, I'm kind of stuck with them as that is the way everything is still made here.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Waynio

    Waynio Relaxing

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    I'm sure whatever little mistakes there are are only noticable if up close & scrutinizingly checking for glitches, but many of the pics are up close & it looks great to me, very nice solution on the side panel mounts voigts, I'll have to try out some of this jb weld some time sounds great stuff :).

    Anyway mate it's looking gorgeous & woo hoo not so far from finished, bet your quite happy :D:thumb:.
     
  15. voigts

    voigts What's a Dremel?

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    JB Weld has got to be one of the most versatile fix-its man has ever created.

    Its almost scary that I am starting to see the end of this. Only starting, mind you. I'm not counting my chickens yet.
     
  16. voigts

    voigts What's a Dremel?

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    Houston, we have a problem...

    I got to looking at the res fit today, and ran across a problem that I should have seen much earlier. :duh: I'm not going to be able to use my res. The res completely blocks one of the mounting screws for the top panel. There is no way to get to the screw that would not involve serious contortion. As a matter of fact, I see no way to have a res at the top of the case without blocking this.

    [​IMG]

    This problem however answers for me whether or not to switch to an MCP35X (which I already bought) from my Aquastream XT though. After looking at it every way I can think of, I've decided that the best fix is to buy an MCP35X Rev 2 res for the pump, and just run a line with a fillport to the top of the case. I went ahead and ordered both today from SVC as they have the res on sale. Believe it or not, this will be only the 2nd commercially made res I've used in 6 yrs of watercooling. My pretty handmade res will get retired to a shelf before it is even used . Oh well.
     
  17. voigts

    voigts What's a Dremel?

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    A Bit of Steam Bending

    I needed to bend the front panel trim piece to match the curve of the front panel. After doing a bit of Googling, I found that steam bending is the way to go. Since the piece is small, I decided the easiest way to do this was to use a clothing steamer with a small box attached to it. I only needed to steam the piece for about 20 minutes, so it doesn't matter if the box gets a bit soggy. I cut a hole in the box, put in the clothing steamer, closed up the box, and let it go.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    After is steamed for 20 minutes or so, I took the piece out and clamped it to the front panel and let it dry, I put a bit of foil just to protect the front panel. It now is curved perfectly with the front panel. I'm not gluing it down yet though as it will be a different stain color from the front panel, so I need to stain the front panel and it before gluing it to the front panel.

    [​IMG]

    Fillport

    I got in my MCP35X-Res, and to go with it, I wanted a fillport in the top of the case. A problem though is that I cut out part of the area in the top metal piece for the res I had made, so there was nothing to mount the fillport to. I thought about remaking the top metal piece, but I just didn't want to spend the time on it. So I pulled out my trusty JBWeld and put a piece in to fill the gap. It is plenty sturdy enough for what I need. Since I am painting this case anyway, the JBWeld won't really matter. If I wasn't so close to end of this project, I may have remade the top piece, but at this point, this solution will do the job well enough.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Change in Fan Controller

    I was going to use a Scythe KazeQ fan 3.5” fan controller, but since Sunbeamtech came out with their new PWM 3.5” controller, I wanted to switch to it. This of course means I needed a new mount. Since the front of the controller is perforated, I figured it would match to use some perforated alu sheet to make a cover/mount for it.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Wiring Cover

    To help tidy things up a bit in the area in front of the PSU, and to keep the wiring from interfering with the pump/res, I made a piece with a removable side and top. This helps hide the wiring, and also keeps it from hitting the pump/res where it will sit next to it.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I've got a few more odds and ends to do, and then its time to take everything apart and start sanding/prepping/painting the alu pieces. I bought a gallon of aluminum cleaner/etching solution for this as I figure this is a much better approach than just trying to use etching primer, and will etch and clean everything thoroughly.

    Thanks for stopping by.
     
  18. Alexandros

    Alexandros What's a Dremel?

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    Nowaii, another update :D! I've been considering getting the Rheosmart, but it's still not readily available in the Netherlands. From what I've heard from Martin and others, it works great :D.

    Also, clever contraption, with the cardboard steam cabine ;).
     
  19. Waynio

    Waynio Relaxing

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    Excellent cover mount & wood bending, sweet wire hiding too voigts, really really tidy internals mate & gorgeous externals makes an awesome case indeed :).
     
  20. voigts

    voigts What's a Dremel?

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    Its from Martin on XS that I found out about the Rheosmart 3. The idea of using PWM to control the rad fans is awesome.

    When I was reading about steaming, most of the contraptions involve using a steam kettle and tubing, and it just seemed far too complicated to me for this little piece. The clothing steamer came to mind, and the box thing with it worked great for a one time use thing. Needless to say the box was kind of soft when I was done, so using it more than once as-is would be out of the picture.

    Thanks Wayne. I'm trying to keep things hidden and as neat as possible.
     

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