Scratch Build – In Progress [Project Mk. XVIII Rev.4] - Update #6 (8th Aug) - The frame is completed!

Thanks for the PM

That's my second plan if I can't cut a grove in the tap and get it out with an screwdriver.

Thanks again everyone for all the tips.

 

I'm using a pretty cheap inhouse brand from a store called Biltema that have stores in most of the Nordic countries. Most of their stuff is good enough, but sometimes it's not up to snuff. Combine that with some tiredness of my part, and that I probably had the angle slightly wrong, and it's breeding ground for disaster.

But on to happier news. I got the tap out! Although with some damage to the aluminium. I had to cut out the material surrounding the tap as Dark~3nergy suggested, and then with a combination of a heat gun and lots of lubricant I could get a grip with some pliers and get it out!

Picture of the damage (that looks worse than it is). I will most probably be able to tap the remaining of the hole. The hole is 18mm deep and I made a crater about 5mm deep, so that's no problem (Murphy will probably prove me wrong on this part ):


And here's the offender:


Now I'm off to buy a new tap and tonight I will be able to continue with the frame.
As always, thanks for looking.

 

The simplicity of your idea is arousing, been wanting to do something similar with one of my fractal R3 door's, a vertical pulsing light strip of sorts, will check back on this!

 

Well, that sucks mate, I'd go a bit more higher end gear though, you'll get a better thread too, plus its better quality! I presume you are doing them by hand in ally, due to its nature?

 

Thanks Hopefully I won't disappoint.
Here's the plexi I'm thinking of buying. They claim that plexi will give you an perfectly even sheen, without any "hotspots" from the LED's behind. Maybe it can help you or someone else.

 

(By the way, you do know that you don't have to make screen shots of your SketchUp design, but can simply export it as a 2D image, do you?)

 

The problem with aluminium is that is sticks to the tap and will damage the thread as you go allong, especially on blind holes. One tip would be to use a bit of water with soap, or any kind of drill paste. that way the aluminium doesn't get as hot and wont melt and stick it selft to the tap. also works for tapping on plexi.

 

Had a similar problem in the past too, didn't end well...

 

I agree, I always use cutting paste, not a lot as it gets everywhere when it heats up as it looses its viscosity. I prefer the paste over cutting liquid as its easier to be precise, cleaner and just works better IMO.

 

I thought of buying a set from a more reliable company, but in the end I didn't think the cost would be justified. I'm after all using them for this project only (so far at least, I'm gonna need a new HTPC soon as well).
And yep, they are done by hand, can you do it any other way (without expensive machinery)?

You can?! I thought I had looked through every single menu for that... Little did I know that I should look under the Export menu Thanks for the tip!

I've been using denatured alcohol to lubricate when both drilling and tapping, but it seems it wasn't enough in that particular case.

 

nice to see that you repaired it !

 

Even better, I've also been able to tap what remained of the hole. Murphy was on my side this time
All of the rest of the holes is also tapped and I've begun assembling the frame.
Hopefully I'll have pictures tomorrow.

 

Cool. I only saw this now. I like the design a lot, and it looks like this is shaping up nicely.

My response t the broken tap: What doesn't kill you makes you stronger.I'm glad it came came out kinda OK.

I am following this worklog.

 

As a machining student, we use WD40 for lube on aluminum. Works fantastic. Turn the tap in a little, pull it back out a little to break the chips and use LOTS of lube.

 

Biggest update so far; the frame is finished! I'm very happy that I've got this far, and this quick too. (I would like to think that is because I spent so much time planning.)

Here's the last work in progress pictures of the frame:

Using a DIY jig to drill the holes in the middle bars:


The middle bars drilled on all sides:



The frame partially assembled:


And the main shot. The fully assembled frame:


Some close-ups of the joints for those interested:




There are some joints that aren't completely flush but it shouldn't be a problem when the outer shell is bolted on.
Although there were one part that was slightly too much off, and it was the diagonal lengths (cross length? I'm not really sure of the correct term, the picture should provide enough explanation). They should be 665mm, but on one side they were 660mm and 668mm. I was able to correct it with an screw clamp, and hopefully it will be enough when it have been under pressure for a couple of hours.

The clamped and waiting frame:


And lastly, an cleaned desk for when I will be cutting out the parts for the outer shell out of 2mm aluminium:


Thanks for looking, and if you have any comments or questions, I'm all ears.

 

Nice work on the frame! I really like how well planned this was.

-Ian

 

OK, subbed- I plan something similar for my first scratch build, so it'll be interesting for me to see where you will be taking this.