Scratch Build – In Progress Cygnar Storm Strider - Update#28.5 - 9.06.2011

Man this case is looking awesome every time I see it. I was JUST in Seattle for a wedding, wish I could have stayed for PAX to see this in person.

 

This is amazing. When you can really start seeing the similarities between the miniature and the case you know you're well on the way to something truly special.

+rep!

 

The other thing I hate about deadlines: Picture-less updates as the deadline closes in.
I just hope you don't do the #1 thing I hate: Not finishing up after the deadline/show passes. I want to see this done!!!!

 

ditto here. Either way (done by PAX or not), I want to see the end result... Keep pushing!

 

Thanks! I've said it before but it always means a lot to me to see the people I've subscribed to (because I think they do awesome work) comment and provide encouragement in my work log.

If it was last weekend it was great weather. I'm going to miss the 1 week of summer we get here.

A buddy of mine (Cygnar player) has been skeptical of the casemod. But now that it is coming together he's getting just as excited. We're also working on a sticker for the video card that has a picture of a Cygnar dressed, reclined lady with "Lil' Nemo" (just like old WWII bombers).

To ease your worries, this deadline was self imposed. I knew this was going to be an epic project and wanted to set a time line for myself so it wouldn't last month/years. There has never been any requirement or sponsor request for this deadline. I WANTED to get it finished for the casemod contest in the BYOC. I could enter an awesome project and make a splash with my first official 'tracked with a work log' casemod in the contest.

I am 100% certain that I won't complete this project to my satisfaction by Friday morning. I will have something presentable. And after PAX I will continue the project to a completion to my satisfaction. More importantly, one of the sponsor (Privateer Press) wants to feature the casemod in their magazine, No Quarter. That responsibility is motive to spend a little extra time after PAX to clean up some stuff that's nagging me.

Still have plenty of momentum and energy! thanks!

 

Update #26: The Days Grow Short.
Count Down: Less than 4 days until PAX 2011.

Faster, faster, faster, FASTER, FASTER! Things are coming along quite well! If Tuesday or Wednesday are just as sunny as this weekend was I should have all of the shin guards cast in time for PAX. Once again I apologize for the sparseness of these pictures but I’m in a production-mode and that means my documentation will suffer.

Here’s a picture of two of the legs after the casting! All four turned out well and are useable. I should be attaching them to the enclosure tonight.



Here’s a picture of Anthony from Green Fairy Studios. HE does great work but… I must admit I was a little disappointed. He is neither Green nor very spritely or fairy-like.



Here a brief sample of what he’s done so far. I have to admit. I’m holding back a couple of the pictures. But trust me, the dome is looking awesome.



Next is the shin guard mould-making process. This mould will be a three part mould and I am cheating. There are great books and method for how to do this and ensure that your mould and therefore making the casting is an easy and flawless practice. But I don’t have time for any of these formalities.

I made a box whose dimensions are appropriate (at least 1.5” away from any part of the model) for the piece we will be making. I used foam pieces to prop the model up and away from the edge/bottom of the box. These props will fully sit inside one of the three mould parts. I coated both the box and the model with Vaseline. Stop giggling Cheapskate.



Don’t forget to coat the top of the box. After everything is coated, fill the box with expanding foam or gap-filler. Then wait for the foam to harden. The foam won’t stick to anything that is coated with Vaseline.



More pictures of this process will probably go up tomorrow morning.



LIST TO DATE:

In Progress:
Cut Spine attachment pieces
Cut out wiring holes in main enclosure base plate
Bend and insert mesh pieces to side walls and top cover plate
Cut out switch holes on PSU/HDD enclosure
Assemble PSU/HDD enclosure
Cold weld dome to cover plate
Attach legs to PSU/HDD enclosure
Base paint all the parts
Paint the case
Create 3 part mould for shin guards


To-Do list:
Cast resin shin guard
Attach shin guard
Cut acrylic windows for all lightning ports
Wire shin guards for LED lighting
Put in all of the hardware and switches
Test run for shorts and issues
Disassemble case for transport


Done:
Cold weld Wire tubes to resin leg frame
Insert the video card mounting plate
Create cover pieces for the spine
Cut the holes for the input/output ports in the back panel
Cut spine space and panels out of top cover plate
Cast resin legs
Cut the pieces for the PSU/HDD enclosure
Create frame and enclosure mounts for the PSU/HDD enclosure
Attach lightning coils to spine

 

this is going fast... keep on smearing that vaseline!

 

insane speed!

 

Quick mini update:

I destroyed a dremel last night. I pushed the little critter beyond its limits. This is the second dremel so far on this project. I am Monkeyfun, SLAYER OF DREMELS. Fortunately, I learn my lesson 2 dremels ago and got the extended warranty. Completely replaced in 20 minutes! Three cheers for working the system!

--------------------------------------------------

LIST TO DATE:

In Progress:
Bend and insert mesh pieces to side walls and top cover plate (almost done, drying)
Cut out switch holes on PSU/HDD enclosure (must finish filing first)
Assemble PSU/HDD enclosure (must finish filing first)
Cold weld dome to cover plate (waiting on mesh to dry first)
Attach legs to PSU/HDD enclosure (dependent on psu/hdd enclosure)
Base paint all the parts
Paint the case
Create 3 part mould for shin guards (waiting for plaster to dry, on 1 of 3)
Test run for shorts and issues (hardware tested and all parts run in another case)

To-Do list:
Cast resin shin guard
Attach shin guard
Cut acrylic windows for all lightning ports (can wait until after PAX)
Wire shin guards for LED lighting
Put in all of the hardware and switches
Disassemble case for transport


Done:
Cold weld Wire tubes to resin leg frame
Insert the video card mounting plate
Create cover pieces for the spine
Cut the holes for the input/output ports in the back panel
Cut spine space and panels out of top cover plate
Cast resin legs
Cut the pieces for the PSU/HDD enclosure
Create frame and enclosure mounts for the PSU/HDD enclosure
Attach lightning coils to spine
Cut Spine attachment pieces
Cut out wiring holes in main enclosure base plate

 

GO GO GO GO!!!
Good luck breaking the new Dremel ... I mean not breaking the new Dremel!

 

Update #27: 2 Days.
Count Down: I only have Today and tomorrow to work on the case: PAX 2011.

I’m getting excited. PAX is always a wonderful event that I suggest everyone experience. The sheer amount of activities that happen both in and outside the event is staggering. I think I’ve been invited to 4 different vendor parties on Saturday and 2 on Friday. My schedule is booked solid with panels I want to see and new games I want to try out.

First, I donned my gear. While Privateer Press didn’t provide this bandana in their care package, I’ve earn several of them from playing Warmachine games in their Iron Arena. Privateer Press will be having an Iron Arena at PAX as well! I love getting prizes and schwag at conventions for playing games I love!



Here’s a quick picture of me attaching the mesh to one of the side walls. As you can see, I am a fan of paperclip and paperweight as modding tools.



Now, I’ll continue with the 3-part mould creation process for modders in a rush or the ‘How-to-cheat-in-the-mould-making-process’. Please note, a cast pieces is only as good as mould it comes from. If you put the time and the effort into making a good mould, your cast piece will show that diligence. Every shortcut you take in the mould making process will probably equal time you’ll need to spend on retouching the cast object as well.

Ok, last update I covered setting your object up in the box. Well, here’s what it looks like filled with gap-filler foam.



Be sure to keep an eye on your box. The gap-filler foam expands and you should probably clean up the excess foam before it hardens somewhere you don’t want it. Here’s the hardened foam.



This is the foam after the ‘unboxing’. Be sure to save that box as you’ll end up needing it later.



Now I’m deciding and where to make my mould parts. You should already have a general idea of where those parts are going to be. Determining the parts is dependent on the shape of the object you are trying to replicate. The purpose of using a 3-part mould is keeping the mould parts from latching onto a recessed space on the object and preventing your from releasing the parts of the mould and retrieving the cast pieces. So you have to look at the object and determine what will be best for your project.



I’ve cut out the space for the first section.



Now you put the foam back into the box and cover it with a thin layer of petroleum jelly. If you’ve been using the correct amount of petroleum jelly in your project the store clerk should be eyeing you like some twisted pervert. Or you can just go to different stores or buy it in bulk.



Fill the empty space with plaster.



After the plaster has hardened, unbox the pieces.



Cut out the second piece. Place the foam and the first piece back in the box. Cover the pieces in petroleum jelly and then fill the empty space with plaster again.



This should produce two of your three pieces. The third is always a little tricky but it is done with the same process. Things you want to look out for:

Recessions made by the 2 previous pieces
Flaws in the mould
Aliens

I’m not too sure what to do if you find an alien but the other two problems can be ‘fixed’ with an excessive amount of petroleum jelly.

Please note, I am leaving some of the foam in the last piece. I’m doing this to make the cast piece a little smoother and thicker and to reduce the amount of grabbing the plaster piece will do with the cast resin.



Here’s a picture of the last setup in the box. You can see all that petroleum jelly. This will cause some errant sprues on the cast resin piece, but I’m already figuring I’m going to spend a decent amount of time cleaning up the part anyhow. Once you’re ready, fill this last section up with plaster.



I’ve also found that there is a ‘golden’ time for pulling your model object from a plaster mould. You obviously want to wait until the plaster has solidified however you don’t want to wait too long. The longer you wait the more your plaster will crack when stress is applied to it. I usually try to extract the object while the plaster is still warm (it generates heats as it solidifies). If there are parts that are bonding or recessed behind the object you want them to break loose but you don’t want to destroy the rest of the mould.

I’ll post pictures of the final mould probably between tonight and tomorrow night.

Here’s a quick picture of the legs. I’m still cleaning them up but they will be ready to be primed later today:



Here are some teaser pictures of the semi-finished case!






I’ve come to terms that I’ll probably be showing a Work-In-Progress in the BYOC, but it’s put together enough that I will be proud of my work and driven to make it even better. That being said, I will probably put in another 30 or so hours of work into the case before opening morning at PAX. And once again, I will be working on this project more after PAX. I’ve talked to Anthony over at Green Fairy Studios and we’re going to rework the paint job after the convention so that it looks great for its photo session for the No Quarter magazine.


LIST TO DATE:

In Progress:
Cut out switch holes on PSU/HDD enclosure
Assemble PSU/HDD enclosure
Cold weld dome to cover plate
Attach legs to PSU/HDD enclosure
Base paint all the parts
Paint the case


To-Do list:
Cast resin shin guard
Attach shin guard
Cut acrylic windows for all lightning ports
Wire shin guards for LED lighting
Put in all of the hardware and switches
Load OS & games into HDD
Test run for shorts and issues
Disassemble case for transport

 

I've been watching this from start to finish and its so exciting! XD

 

That's looking sweeet painted Good luck finishing this!

 

oh man, this post probably wont make it bcuz im under 10 total, but;

GOOD LUCK MAKING IT BEFORE PAX!! im prayin for you man. this build is amazing.!!

 

Fantastic work mate! Have a great time at PAX

 

Metal inside clear plastic? Can anyone say, "Micronauts build"?
You probably could have skipped the foam step with some clever usage of plastic sandwich wrap. -Would have saved you from being shunned by the girls at the grocery store too.

 

I don't like the net (grid?) vienna chairs style...Not so futuristic

 

BINGO!

I saw this and was trying to think of what the pattern reminded me of...

Not to say I don't like it, I was just trying to figure it out...

The project looks like it's coming along quite nicely!

 

getting better and better

 

I met Monkeyfun today at PAX and checked this thing out in person.

I can tell you it was fricken awesome!

It definitely stands out in a crowd. It looks even better in person than in the pictures.

Can't wait to see it finished.