Scratch Build – Complete ⭐ The Iron Turnip--6-2019-complete. final pictures on page 29

I remember cutting into my fist case... thick steal and I didn't have power tools. I couldn't do much more that cut a hole in the case.

 

OK, I think I forgot to change the thread subtitle.

Thanks, everyone.

@Barry - Hardyplank is concrete based, and I have a ton of odd scraps I use for burning stuff.
The cores are hollow? I feel like I've been cheated. There should at least be a mint in there or something. I hope it didn't pop on you.

+ Shinji - Also, I think I accidentally built a steam generator already: GwassGween. I found recently that the one fan that shorted out somehow during final assembly was really important.

@Dr.Coin - I AM working outdoors. The carpet is flammable.

As for the negative stars, It only makes me throw more 5 -star love around. My senile butt tried to 5-star the last NUC contestants several times.

 

Yep, well, actually they're shaped like a shot glass. Also found out not to use a brass wire brush to try to clean melted aluminum off glowing red copper. You get bronze stuck to the copper...

 

Neat. I'm glad I didn't try tho harvest the copper from one of those now.

 

Does that mean you can give me some tips on how to make a steam powered laptop?

Wait... If I went with water cooling, I could use the waste heat to help heat up the boiler. I think I just discovered perpetual motion!

 

Sounds more like a slow buildup until the eventual meltdown.

Lemmie dump some pics of the stuff talked about, except the steam engine. I have yet to find a camera with a thermal setting.


-I thought this little heat sink silver soldered to the plate would be easier than sawing slits work better.


-Hack sawing it cleanly turned into a nightmare, so I glued it to a board and milled the sides off.

-I milled the base down until it dulled a bit, then dulled the fly cutter trying to clean it up. 2 Passes at .001" and DULLED.

-I mean it got really dull, really fast. This stuff is tough.

-It didn't matter because the copper was forged and apparently was warping as I cut it. I took it out and torched the hell out of it, and sanded the base instead.

-I need a spot to seat the sink, so I milled a tiny indent in the plate. Oh, and bored some guide holes for drilling screw holes.

-Hmm, The measurements have been really off on this part of the project. That's way too tall on the pocket.

-This was the results of my propane soldering attempt. It dumped heat as fast I could apply it, so the silver never got close to melting.

-Yep. The numbers were ALL wrong this measuring session. I caught the bad dimensions on the chip recess before I drew this test cut, but the holes for the memory are all off. You know, since the main chip dimensions were wrong, and just about everything was referenced from that point, maybe the rest was screwed up? :/
-And THAT'S why I test fit.

-Since I had to pull the main sink, I figured I'd try to pull that little sink and get some measurements. This photo just told me I can fix that O-ring problem too. There's a big gap in the middle. A ray of hope in my project log entry of despair and failure.

-For now, I have been trying to grind a new edge on the fly cutter bit. It's going slow because my sharpening kit doesn't have the same angle as the bit.


Thanks again to my sponsors:

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Sorry to hear about the setbacks. Measuring mistakes are annoying as hell. That heatsink soldering looks like a tricky problem. Maybe you need to stick the whole thing in a furnace?

Also I have to ask, does seeing a mill make pretty patterns in metal ever get old?

 

I get frustrated just looking at that .

I cheated with my fly cutter, I bought some cheap carbide tipped lathe bits for it. They actually work pretty well and I don't have to worry about getting the geometry right on the grinder. I haven't even dulled the first one yet. I shouldn't even be using a fly cutter on my mill tho, I'll probably break a spindle gear eventually .

 

Yes. It gets old fast. On The 1/8" aluminum, I was doing something like 20 passes to cut through. At 7 inches per minute, that's like an hour on large parts.

It would be easier probably to grind the end off the bit, but the angle is really funky. I probably should have modified the sharpener to get the right angle. I thought it would grind faster than this honestly.

 

A round profile carbide lathe profiling tool seems to work well in a fly cutter.

 

You need one of these, WARNING!!! CNC porn ahead!! I'll not make the video playable, you can hit up the link, don't want to fill up cheap's log with more non-build stuff...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DzMxGao8de8

 

Stop! I'm trying not to buy stuff this time.
@Nexxo -I can't believe someone makes a 1/4" shank indexable bit. I'd be tempted, but it and some spare bits cost more than the last 3 bit orders I made. -and I didn't get to the shipping.
@Barry - I only have a 3/8" shank capacity. (I don't like how that reads...)
Also, that bit I burned up on the reservoir? That was like, $2.

 

Does your mill have an MT3 or R8 spindle? You can get up to 3" diameter indexable end mills for both.



Check out that bad boy.

 

Oh my...

/Takeimode


I should start a thread just to geek out about tools. I always feel guilty clogging up peoples build logs when I get the urge to talk shop.

 

I can hear Nexxo's wallet slapping against his monitor already.
Collet is ER16.

 

But the collet has a shank, right? Is it an MT3 or R8?

 

Best I can tell, the collet is part of the spindle assembly, so it's mounted directly to the bearings.


-Tiny update: Remember that purple thing? It serves a purpose, I swear. Here it is on the polycarb bracket.

-See how it sits up against the PSU?

-I added a little button under the PSU and POW! no more sagging power supply.

-The polycarbonate bracket got polished up too. -mostly, mostly...
It's really hard to get all the marks off your old cutting board.

-This is the block that the back plate mounts too. I hack sawed a wee bit too much off the tank, so shaving a bit off the bracket gave me more tank, er... less tank, but no ugly overcuts. Like my parallel supports?

-Once I got the overlap marked properly, I ground most of it off with a bench grinder. For the final flat grinding I needed something flat and about 14" square. The underside of my lapping tile was perfect.
Imagine this if you can: You tie a Jamaican steel drum to the back of your car and drag it down the street face down. -That is the approximate sound grinding this flat made.

-Here's the current state of the back. I will attack the I/O hole next. (Yes, I'm putting off the vid card for now. It's rained every day for a month here. when I step outside, it gets stormy.)

 

If it is (or knowing you, started out) as a conventional mill, then the collet should be inserted in a hollow spindle. On the top of the mill should be a cap covering a draw bar. Unscrew the draw bar, and the collet should drop from the spindle (may need a gentle tap on top of the draw bar after unscrewing it a few turns but not yet totally).

 

I need an adult! This^ man is trying to get me to take my spindle out.
Not trying it. All I know is that it's an ER16 spindle, and removing it requires re-aligning the pulley assembly.