Having seen pictures of the RM1 pre-purchase I believed the top panel to be removable, turns out it is riveted in place with several tiny rivets. I was planning on getting some work done at the laser hive to make it watercooling compatible but would laser cutting be able to happen as an entire enclosure or would cutting companies be able to re-rivet the case relatively easily?
but the case is pristine and these rivets are tiny, I don't want to scratch it haha, would most modding companies be able to re rivet for you?
Yep, drill them out, and re-rivet afterwards. Manual rivet guns cost next to nothing these days. Got a Dremel? I have a miniature drill chuck for mine that holds small drill bits - again not all that expensive iirc.
Put lots of painters / masking tape around the area so if the drill slips you don't damage the finish. Drill out the rivets with a drill / dremel. Drill just large enough to destroy the center pin. To replace the rivets get a rivet gun and match the rivet size to the hole you have. You can get coloured rivets too BTW. Put a rivet in the gun, push the rivet down hard into the hole and squeeze the rivet gun. It deforms / mushrooms the rivet to mechanically fix it in place as well as clipping off the excess pin, repeat as needed Ed
I have a Jonsbo C2 and the front is riveted on. Can I replace rivets with screws so I can take the front on and off at will? I have no idea where to start, I'm definitely not a handyman type
I haven't seen that case in person but the problem is that most cases use too thin of material. You can't cut any threads into it because it's not thick enough. Without being able to see exactly how it's joined and the surrounding material it's hard to come up with a clever workaround. Rivet nuts would probably be a easy solution and the manual tools are inexpensive, provided there's enough material around the hole to accommodate drilling a larger one. Maybe some rare earth magnets? Another way would be this: The red objects are countersunk rivets. The grey is a thicker piece of metal that you can tap threads in to. The center hole is the existing rivet hole. You would drill two additional holes in the front metal frame next to the original rivet hole. You are making a backing basically that's thick enough for the screw. Actually I'd probably forget the rivets and use countersink screws of the same thread type as your center screw. Less tools to buy that way. All you would need is a countersink, a small piece of aluminum and a corresponding tap and drill to whatever screw size you use (I'd recommend 6-32, same as a regular case screw and would fit through a rivet hole).
How about some nu plates. They are a thin metal threaded backing plate. Come is fixed and floating types. As well as several different attachment arrangements. You can get them here. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/p...tv6EmFi2l08I_DXadWAa3q5fzEPkZe4CaChoCV8_w_wcB
