^^ how on earth did that work so well ?? ( the Prit Stick idea ) currently printing out a test piece ( a 40k tau token ) will report back when im done, but so far the first layer is a little rough but everything else is looking pretty good, when i move it into its more permanent home ill likely ask for some assistance to fully calibrate and help with a couple of mod's ( thumb-wheels for better bed level accuracy, a Z brace mod etc ) but for now im pretty chuffed with it
i Realised the bottom layer is a base to build the item on ( DOH! ) unfortunatly i realised that a little to late as i watched in Horror as the printer started printing a smaller circle, i figured it wasnt working and cancelled the print >_< Now printing a Companion Cube and will report back with photos once it is done ( 3 hours apparently ) ( Excuse the crappy phone pic ) well im chuffed now the annoying thing is my Mom wants a companion cube... and so does my sister... Just got to wait for my new Reel Also what do you guys print with ? PLA or ABS ? what are the Pro's / Cons of each in your opinion i also have a ( large ) Queue of stuff to printout XD
A good first layer is crucial, I will watch the first couple of layers and cancel the print if the adhesion to the bed isn't good. Companion cube looks good! I print almost exclusively in PLA, used some funkier PLA such as Ninjaflex, Semiflex (for flexible components) as well as infill PLA like Bronze, Laywood and Laybrick. For those last ones I used a hardened steel nozzle as they wear out brass nozzles very quickly. I haven't used ABS so I can't really comment but I've heard lots of different things about it. What I do know is that it smells like hot plastic when in use, so if you've got your printer in the house (rather than a workshop) I'd avoid it. Here's a good article comparing the two: http://www.protoparadigm.com/news-updates/3d-printer-filament-buyers-guide/ Definitely worth experimenting to see what works for you.
For ABS, it's advisable to enclose your printer to keep the heat (& fumes!) in. I've been considering building a box with a spare 120mm fan connected to a length of 100mm tumble dryer hose to the nearest window. There are a couple of 120mm fan to 100mm hose adaptors on thingiverse
well after running my second print, i have come to the conclusion that the amount of noise generated by this thing is to damn high! to that end i looked up how to quieten it down abit, people recomend enclosures with sound foam, and replacing the stock PSU fan.
Also is anyone a wiz with 3d software ? i downloaded a Mech, but looking at the print there are some thngs in the upper body i would like to change, but im not sure what software i should use for that 2 parts need extending by 5mm ( although they are a mirror ) and one part needs extending in 2 places by 5mm then lifted by 7.5mm to give more depth to the part ( i hope i explained that correctly, i know what i want, i just dont know how to do it, or what software to use So i either need some EASY TO USE software ( seriously ive tried 3 different 'easy' softwares but i cant seem to find the 'Select face - Bottom face - Extrude down - 7mm'
You've come across one of the biggest weakness of 3D printing: STL files. There are several bits of software that can edit/modify STL files (Meshmixer and the like) but I've found it impossible to do so with any accuracy or control. Traditional CAD software builds up a part with a sequence of operations and as a result knows what is a face, vertex, edge etc. STL files describe the part with tessellated triangles, even at the biggest mesh size a square face will have two 'triangles' to describe it. As a result, if you import an STL file into CAD software it doesn't know what the objects geometry is. EDIT: Ooh I found this: https://all3dp.com/free-stl-editor-open-edit-stl-file/ and had a mess around with the sketchup one. Seems to work quite well, bit fiddly to remove all the required vertex lines to make a continuous face though but then accurate extruding could be done.
how do you delete individual lines ? when i click the eraser it just deletes the object and not the lines
nevermind, i found windows 3d builder to be the best tool for what i needed ( odd i know ) i just raised the item up 7mm and it auto filled in everything below - save as .STL and Boom instant win
Disaster strikes! Luckily, Amazon had replacements. I'll use them to print this, then get an E3D v6 extruder.
EEEeeeekkkkk! How'd that happen? Sorry to see your woes - hope your replacement arrives quick! Will be interested to know if you find the v6 makes a notable difference in quality - might be something to get myself for my birthday in 2 months
I was attempting to clear a blob of filament that attached itself to the nozzle. Brass is a BRITTLE alloy, and the wall thickness on this part is minute. It was an accident waiting to happen! Good news is that BOTH the replacement heatbreaks* AND a v6 conversion kit arrive tomorrow! *(I'm now unsure I ordered the right ones but only £7 for 5 so what the heck)
i picked up an IKEA enclosure for my Printer, but it has an unfortunate side effect every print i have attempted since installing the printer into its box has warped up off the bed, i have tried re-applying the pritt-stick but to no effect here is the last print off before it went into the box, and the 3rd attempt at a mirrored part since being installed Any ideas what could be causing this ? maybe the cooling of the plastic ?
the Pritt Stick is on the Basic bed, no glass or tape although they didn't really matter before the bed is heated up to 85 degrees and the printer is printing at 195C The only change has been the printer has been moved into an enclosure ( for noise reasons, i have to sleep in the same room as this ) im thinking the higher ambient temperature is causing this as that is the only thing to have changed significantly
Is this PLA or ABS? I run my bed (coated with masking tape) at 50°C and I don't get any warping/lifting at all with PLA. In fact I have the opposite problem: prints adhere so firmly to the bed that I struggle to remove them!
its PLA, im currently trying a print out at 70C bed temp ( as recommended on a different forum ) and lowering print temp to 190 to see if it makes a difference Never heard anyone using anything as low as 50C bed temp, what extruder temp are you printing at ?
It actually prints the first layer with a bed temp of 60°C, but then all other layers are at 50°C. I use an extruder temp of 210°C, although I could probably drop that my 10-20°C if I'm honest - I haven't calibrated that yet. Never had an issue with prints sticking to the bed. I would suggest a different bed liner like kapton tape or masking tape, but if you've already one bed liner I'm not sure a different one would make a difference. Does it only lift when you're using the enclosure? (What enclosure was it btw, you said you got it from Ikea? Might need one if I ever graduate to ABS)
Some swear by their SO's "extra hold" hairspray instead of gluestick. As for the "Ikea" enclosure, the usual recipe is as follows:- STUVA 64x60x50 frame - £20 (NOT the BESTA one, it's too shallow!) SINDVIK Glass door 64x60 - £15 BESTA Hinge pack - £10 If/when I go this route, I'll get the 196 high Stuva frame (to bring the printer up to eye level), and a couple extra doors/hinges/shelves (to provide filament storage). Then I'll add a spare 120mm fan & some tumble dryer vent hose out the window for those nasty ABS fumes.
