https://www.technologyoutlet.co.uk/products/3d-printer-wanhao-duplicator-i3 ^^ that one printer is £289, add to that some Filament ( mine cost £16 for a full reel ) i have also spent some money on an enclosure, and some sound absorbing foam to help keep it quiet, your welcome to pop down and take a look at it if you like, the crappy camera quality doesnt do the titan justice imo also it means i might be able to talk you into having a crack at painting it. Or if not paint it all, i could try the basecoat and you could do some freehand work. I have also stubled on a Thunderhawk design i might try out eventually
Ahh nice. So, nearly bought a Warlord today. Sated my spending lust with a Leviathan, assault ram, and some more breachers. Feeling uncomfortable now, I've got six troops choices!
id love to see the Leviathan, what weapons did you go for ? just a few last small detail parts left to go on my Titan and she will be complete minus some hydraulic rams but im not sure how to build those yet, maybe i can find some 3d parts i can print or something.
http://i.imgur.com/s5Hsv9w.jpg - Crappy picture, but. A friend and I have something of a tradition, his Leviathan is tearing an Imperial Fist apart, so I had to respond in kind! Just need to pick up some rhino's so I can decorate the flying stands.
Sorry for the thread derail, but... Been lookin at the pics of your awesome models and contemplating how a war machine like this might work in the real world. It'seems often been said that in the battle between warhead and armor, the warhead always wins eventually. That's why modern tanks, despite having literally tons of armor, are built to hide and move. Despite all that armor, odds are the first hit from another tank or guided missile is probably going to knock it out. The mech you guys are modelling would be, what, 10 meters tall and relatively slow. While I can't speak to energy weapons, It seems like the first guided missile would pretty well flatten one of these. Just random thoughts from work at 130 in the morning.
Void shields, lots of layered energy shielding is in the fluff for these. Sure they have a lot of armour in there too but once the shields are gone, that tends to go pretty fast to other titan weapons, or at least it could do when playing Epic scale stuff. Even the big old Imperator didn't stay standing long when it was realised that the shields weren't up anymore.
Three things about 40k. 1. They have shields based on technology. 2. They have shields based on magic. 3. Rule of Cool counts as armour. However, in the fluff those Titans frequently go down instantly should they lose their shields. As you said the warhead tends to win against the armour.
i can print you a trashed rhino off if you like also found a lovely face down dreadnought that im planning to paint up as a Smurfs dread ( because i hate now much ultrasmurfs get all the love in most of the recent Marine Codex's, plus i used to collect them )
Cheers for the offer, but I was planning to pick up the Deimos rhino bundle +1, since I've got four fliers to disguise flying stands on, and it's all heresy era stuff.
On another note, has anyone seen these guys: http://yourmodelbox.com/ It's one of those subscription box thingies, like battlbox (gods, I wish I could afford those each month) or geekbox. Apparently there is always going to be at least 1 new model in it, brushes, paints, scenery gubbins, and so on. Pretty much whatever some companies have given them to send out as promotional stuff. Might grab a couple of months to see if there's anything good in there as the prices seem OK, compared to other sub box things.
Well after printing out the Dreadnought wreak, i was pretty surprised at the results, even on half quality its still pretty good, ( i will re-print it out in 0.1 quality after i have installed a new hot end and installed some additional mods ) the areas that are most affected is non horizontal flat surfaces ( such as angled roofs ) that said i am going to start on an ambitious plan to drastically improve my armoured vehicles, because they are all Ebay Special there really is alot of variation in the Rhino's roof hatches and doors, so my current plan is to ( carefully ) remove all of them and replace them ( again most likely using 3d printed WW2 inspired parts ) so outwardly they are all identical ( except i might add roman numerals to the sides to denote which squad they are attached to ) and replace the side doors with printed parts with chapter iconography added ) this should give a much more cohesive look to the armoured forces in my Iron Hands. I say its ambitious as i currently have 18 Rhino based vehicles Then i plan to learn how to paint... god help me XD
How hard is it to change heads on your printer? Could you make the basic frame with a 1 mm head (nozzle?) And then switch to the .1 mm for the details? I know nothing about 30 printing, but in machining it'seems common to take a rough pass and then change tools for the detail work. Also, could you cast a rough shape in resin or thermoforming it then print the details?
I started to paint allot of the stuff from a few months back, a few things went off IRL and i lost the will to do anything so they are sat in storage, finding it very hard to motivate my self atm which is a crying shame to have £300+ worth of stuff just sat their! Hopefully i can get motivated soon to finish off the painting. The 3d printing stuff looks awesome, i've ordered a few things in the past of Ebay to make custom figures or alter stuff.
its not terribly difficult to swap out the heads on the extruder, its just rather time consuming. im currently using a .4mm head and at .1 or .2mm layer height it prints remarkably well, but i dont think you would be able to swap out heads to add details to a file later ( im not saying it would be impossible, im just saying it would be a royal pain in the arse )especially due to the way that 3d printers work ( by laying down one layer of plastic, then adding the next layer on top. it would be far easier to leave it on detail setting, and then simply accepting that it will take almost twice as long. the Dreadnought wreak takes 9 hours at .1mm so once the final set of screws arrive i will be applying the brace mod, then im going to wait for a new extruder beofre starting any more ultra detail prints
I have the same issue with the Silver Tower at the moment, test put together a few of the models and decided there was no way I could paint them assembled without losing access to areas. Got the bits all undercoated now though so time to buy paints and brushes...
well i got all my Rhino's out to see what needs doing to what tank... this is going to take ALOT of work, and most likely a Dremel to get all the hatch's cut out of the vehicles ( this is what i get for trying to save money and buy Ebay Special vehicles ). Also while rummaging around in my Spare Bits box i found an old Predator front end ( the part with the small view port ) and i am now planning on scaling it up to fit the new Rhino Chassis and adding them to all my Predators and possibly my Razorbacks as well. i also found an old metal vindicator on the original Rhino Chassis that im either going to try to trade for a newer model, or kitbash it onto the larger Rhino Hull I have also found a fantastic Predator Autocannon turret that IMO looks alot better than the one in the Kit so im planning on having that on mine, That said Lira, any chance you could look through your ungodly bits box to see if you have any Predator Sponson's ? i
Nice, good choice of colours too. I've seen some really well painted green ones but the shape just make it looks like a dude stood on a lettuce.
Yeah I know what you mean... I nicked the dragon colour scheme from Em Durant's online how to paint video but changed the colours slightly (basecoat of korn red and washed with the reikland flesh shade rather than the Mephiston red / agrax combo used in the video... I think agrax can give a muddy look over red which I don't like.... What do you think of the ork armour colour.. I used agrax mixed with a little hawk turquoise over tinbitz... then very lightly dry brushed with tinbitz to bring it through the wash.. Gw are using yellow armour on these orruk... don't really like it myself.. bit cartoonish..
I am a huge fan of mixing in earthshade to paints for ork stuff. I have it mixed with red for the spot colour on my 40k orks as it makes for a really flat, dull and dirty colour. Another question, what the hell was wrong with Orcs? Or Dwarves? Or Lizardmen? Can't tell what's what on GW's site amymore
