A Huge thanks to James and the guys over @ MWAVE for jumping on board with Some really cool hardware for the project. Mwave is a local supplier in sydney and i had the pleasure of dealing with them on the last build. MWAVE GIGABYTE Z390 AORUS ELITE INTEL I7-9700K GIGABYTE GEFORCE RTX 2060 SUPER TEAM FORCE VULCAN 16GB 3200 INTEL 660P 512GB M.2 4 X SAMSUNG SSD'S Last but not least the star of the show DEEPCOOL ASSASSIN III COOLER Again thanks MWAVE Trying to get my hands on a ZC-11 case as a new home for my hardware for months now has proven to be just too expensive and a logistical nightmare. So i've decided to just have a go and make my own. The ZC-11 is a open air case much like the Antec Torque and Cougar Conquer , even more so as it does not have any face panel at all. Ive chucked in the "Hyper" Branding as i find these style cases much like Hyper Cars, Fantastic to look at but totally impractical as a daily driver As always it starts with some plex ,this time it's cut bent and sanded. This will be the Base of the case. The top of the case. The Spine will be made from 4mm+ 3mm +3mm making it very thicc Threaded Rod with nuts is used to attach the 3 sections. It's a very simple idea and with some extra bracing and end gluing it's genuinely very strong. The next thing to do is to add in a mother board tray. This will sit offset to the main spine. The great thing about this design is adjustability! First the spine. 2 new sections of 2.5mm plex are copied and patterned. These will be hard glued to each side. One side will be hold the PSU and the other who knows yet These are hand sanded and hard glued to the the spine Next is to knock up a PSU bracket, this will be hard glued into the cut out. The same is done for the rear of the mb tray, This will also house the ssd's. Clear plastic tube is keyed with a dremel to house standard nuts and also hand sanded to cover the threaded rod. DIY for the outer dress lock nuts as well. So far so good, For a a quickie case build its working out ok.<<--Famous last words! And of course it's ganna be "Air Cooled" !
I forgot how much i miss the banter I spent way too much time making some more ...but i'm thinking only 2 maybe 4 more to go But i thought i'd see if i could change your mind Cheaps I made an extra 2 just for you ! i hope the size is right The GPU bracket is done I like that thanks to the threaded bar i should be able to adjust the card away from the side as needed.
Cheers ML Your doin great mate Thanks mate and ty for the inspiration Cheers mate always great to hear from one of the gods of modding Thought you'd like that LOL that's not for you , read my last post
He was probably what-ing the entire conversation. I had a problem with nested nuts, (oh, dear...) in 'Toad. They would break loose from the glue when tightened. I assume you are using something silicone-based instead.
They should be alright Cheaps , they don't pop when tightened cause there's no pressure thy'r just caps Not a huge update, just worked on making more tubes and a few finishing off touches. I'm using these cool little clear perspex screw to mount the SSD's on the back of the MB tray. It's a bit of a pain if i wanna change a ssd down the track but for the sake of a clean back panel i'm willing to take the trade off. Finished off the the GPU bracket with a panel to hide the riser cable, will also work as a card support. Last but not least ive added some pattern panel to the inside floor
Small update till the weekend, then a lotta sanding and prep work hopefully for some primer paint. Added a cut out panel for the top and did some front panel work.
This is pretty much how the bulk of the next few posts is going to look, just a whole lotta sanding , primer, high filler and more sanding. Cause i'm making this from heat bent plex and bent plex warps. It's going to take a bucket load of work to make this top section look pro. As seen in the above post the front looks pretty ruff. The tabs sections that drop down the sides are only there for bracing while i sand and will be cut away... but for now they stop the sides from flexing in. I'll smash the bulk of the work with some 120 grit dry them move up to some 600 then over to 400 wet and dry and so on. To make sure it's 100% flat i'm using an extreme large block and just like the old days i'll work to my edge not over and around them! This cuts one clean flat surface at the exact angle. The side due to the massive warping will take a lot lot more. But as you can see the large block is already cutting a nice lines. To help see the line better i add some primer paint, this also shows the lows as the sand paper misses these spots.