I have stuck a wanted thread up in the market place, would anyone fancy doing a tiny print for me? Its just a standoff, but my printer is out of action at the moment.
This thread doesn't appear to have much love, so calling @Gareth Halfacree @Bloody_Pete for discussion and problem solving on the new resin printers in the house..... @David as I know your a current owner of a printer. For those not looking at the latest purchasing thread: A Resin 3d printer for under £200 - (£192 according to the exchange rate from my bank card) when buying direct from the UK on the manufacturers website. https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/ld-002r-lcd-resin-3d-printer?variant=31593776971849
I'm expecting to post plenty of HAYULP posts in 'ere when it tips up. One initial query, for them as have already played with resin-based printing: how concerned do I have to be about fumes from the thing? I was planning on perching it on my desk, but if it's kicking out toxic smog I'd rather not be sat next to it for ten hours a day...
I know abs and resin require ventilation, but I keep mine in the garage anyway, despite only printing pla at the moment. I had a look at resin printers but affordable ones seem to have tiny print areas
have you looked into the Elegoo Saturn ? its looking like a Helluva printer for its size and price point, ( depending on my experience with the Mars i might well get a Saturn to pair with it ) i really need somewhere to set up my Elegoo Mars, im either going to put it into the Garage or the Attic as i dont want to be around the fumes as its printing and curing, the Attic will have slightly less Temperature Variance, but more Dust i also picked up an Ender 3 to replace my Dying Wanhao, my plan currently is to install a Titan Aero onto it and then have it run alongside the Ender
Played around with the slicer software for my impending Creality LD-002R, and discovered that... I can print 15 keycaps in just over an hour, total estimated resin cost 78p. Noice.
So a full key cap set for the price of a beer and a days printing? Printing in a translucent material might be nice for RGB vomitness.
Ooooh, that Saturn does look tasty! I'll be following this hreat, maybe I'll be able to convince work to get one!
According to safety data sheets, the main constituents are epoxy acrylates - so not massively toxic, but you wouldn't want to be sitting next to it all day every day as (just with epoxy glues) continous exposure could cause irritation espcially in the lungs. tbh I empty the resin bath after I've finished printing, and since most jobs only last a couple of hours max I'm not overly worried about the fumes. The alcohol washing smells more
I've been throwing a few more things at the slicer. The print area on the Creality is definitely a limitation, but you can work around it for some things at the cost of print time... ...and having to print quite a lot of support structures.
Is that a Pi case? I watched quite a good set of tutorials earlier that explain all about the supports that are automatically generated. I think its really important for miniature printing but the guy explains (pretty clearly) the theory, which will apply across all printing. Videos here: There are some counter intuitive things he explains to improve your prints, like not laying prints horizontal to the bed (in some cases).
I did exactly the same thing. In the whole, firing up the software and seeing what in my 3D printing folder would fit. I'd need to do a lot more slicing to fit a lot of stuff I want to print on it. It didn't help my desire not to buy it.
If I'm understanding the video @Goatee posted - well, the transcript I skimmed, 'cos I'm not a fan of videos - the trick with resin printers is to make sure you're not printing a massive flat surface all at once, i.e. angling things. With that in mind... I can print a full-scale functional - i.e. solid, no infill pattern - version of the tool they use on the International Space Station for £3.19. ...so long as I don't mind spending nine and a half hours at it(!) EDIT: Actually, I can rotate it so it's going the length of the build area, and it cuts the time down to eight hours. Which, y'know, is still quite a long time...
For the majority of my prints now I only use a layer height of 0.1mm, I honestly couldnt tell the difference between 0.05 and 0.1, granted there aren't many flat objects that I print though so it might be more noticable on those. The Ork below was printed with the feet on the build plate at 0.1 and hasn't had any cleanup other than snapping off the supports, speaking of which I'm now creating all my supports in Prusaslicer and importing back into Chitu as fully supported models, so far they seem to be significantly more reliable.
Thats a good looking print. My printer just arrived and after setting it up (putting the lid on) I put some resin in and asked my son to help me choose between the Eiffel tower or some random person model. He chose the person so I asked it to print using the default settings. Seems like I have a 12 hour wait now Edit: Decided to cancel and run a couple of test prints that are much quicker. I set the layer depth to 0.1 based on the suggestion of @13eightyfour
Installed Prusaslicer to give it a go - what printer did you tell it you have? The only Creality one it has is a traditional extrusion-based jobby - or does it not matter if you're then sending the files through Chitu anyway? EDIT: Answering my own question: import the STL, adjust the angle, generate the supports, export as an STL, shove in Chitu and slice. Doesn't matter what the printer settings are in Prusaslicer. EDIT EDIT: Received all my accessories and accoutrements, everything I need for 3D printing... except the printer. Bah!