Photos Latest Purchases Thread: v2.0

It will only be ded if you left an expansion in it with a RTC battery. The 1200 didn't have one on board. So you might be alright!

I have done a KS upgrade on my 1200 too, and put in a CF, and a Blizzard 030. And all I do is play Cannon Fodder

 

Sadly there will indeed be an expansion in there - an 030 of some description with, I want to say, 4MB and an FPU.

To be honest, having just looked on eBay it would appear that even if the motherboard is dead as a dodo I could part out the case and other bits and bobs and make a tidy sum of money, plus they'd be going to someone who would actually get use from the machine. I don't have room for an Amiga and any Amiga gaming I do these days is via WinUAE - I recently did a double-header playthrough of Dungeon Master + Chaos Strikes Back and actually finished CSB for the first time ever.

 

Ah shame - but then it might only be the expansion which has gone for a burton. WinUAE is good isn't it. It's what I used to set up my CF cards

 

As already mentioned, I do indeed have a trapdoor expansion in there

 

I'm not entirely sure, to be totally honest. Haven't powered it up or had the trapdoor open for many a year now. Should really sell it on given that a) I don't use it myself, b) there are apparently plenty of people out there looking for A1200s and c) they fetch decent money.

 

I had a Powerplay Cruiser when I was a kid, but I never got on with it... It was in that awful lurid green and pink though, not a nice black like this one. I always preferred "flight stick" style joysticks when I was younger...

I can count on one hand the number of times I've ever used real Amiga hardware and this is the first Amiga I've owned, so I really don't care that it's an A600 - especially when it was a free A600!

Before I even took it home . Thankfully nothing in there, no leaky RTC battery to worry about! Caps on the board are a worry though, so I need to get it delidded and inspected.

Tower models go for even sillier money these days! A friend of mine had a tower-converted Amiga he was still using back in the late 90s, if he'd kept hold of it it would be worth a ton these days... Can't remember what model it was, but it was originally in a 'wedge' case and was custom-converted to an AT-style tower (pretty sure it was AT rather than ATX, since the power button was a clunky "in/out" affair rather than a momentary push switch...

Honestly even if some contacts or traces are corroded sometimes it's still possible to repair it. It's fiddly af because it involves delicately scraping soldermask away from undamaged traces and bridging bad traces/contacts with jumper wire, but it's entirely possible. Even if the board is totally hosed and near impossible to repair, if you can salvage the main components then you can transplant them into replica PCBs designed to fit the original cases.

Pop it over in the marketplace if you ever do decide to get rid - there are very likely more than a handful of people here who would gladly take on the challenge, myself included!

 

Just took delivery of this. I'm keen to find out if it really is the "best" wood glue. It has a slight gold colour to it... I love gold. T O I G H T, like a TOIGER.

 

You're not supposed to sniff it, mate.

 

I don't know how it is on gluing wood together, but I have been using a bottle of that for a good long time as glue for basing models, so grit, sand, flocks, and stuff onto painted or bare textured plastic, and it has been awesome, by far the hardest wearing finish that I have used so far.

 

I'm currently giving even odds on the hedge's limbs vs my own limbs being the first to drop.

 

Titebond is very good, I always use it and it has a good reputation on woodworking forums.

 

Titebond I, II, or III are the only wood glues. Anything else is a waste of time and space.

 

I have some Titebond III in the garage and have been using it for quite some time. Excellent stuff.

I'm not entirely sure whether there was a particular reason I chose III, but there's a chance it was because it has the highest number after it so must be the best.

 

I chose III because, as well as being waterproof and suitable for outdoor use, it has a longer assembly time, which can be very useful.

 

I use PVA for all my woodworking needs, it's always been fine, and £2 a litre is hard to argue with.

 

^ As above, I got Titebond II specifically because it is waterproof (unlike regular PVA) and I'd like to see how it compares with off-the-shelf stuff I got from ToolStation. I'm planning to build a large driveway gate soon and I want to glue & screw with the best I can get.

 

I use hide glue for most everything I do. Otherwise it's Titebond.

 

Not gonna lie I thought it was mayonnaise at first.

I really haven't had a lot of sleep.