Case Mod - In Progress Matrix Mod - Backup Operator

Not for this last one. By the time I got the hardware and case, I had 2 weeks to knock it out. I set up the camera for some b-roll, but didn't bother taking pictures or keeping track of the build. And it wasn't near as a complicated build as these other two cases. They knocked it out of the park...mind blown!

 

So you are telling me, I need to put the hardwood floor back into place in my living room? Outrageous!

 

No one with any experience in renting would put hardwood floors in.

 

The first "real" detail for the side i called data ports.
All parts for this one were 3D printed.



After a first quick sanding all parts were glued together.







After a couple layers of spray filler, I finished with a layer of spot putty to fill all the imperfections.



Followed by wet-sanding, the detail parts was then primed black.



For an already used look, I dabbed on the bronze acrylic paint just with a brush.
Also made a quick weathering with black wash and made an insert from green acrylic for the later light effect.





Then everything was set into place. I will later add some tubes as a final touch.

 

Les Misérables costumes? -kinky.

 

Oogie Boogie from Nightmare before Christmas.
Alice and Mad Hatter

 

Now for a slightly longer update.
After the data ports, I started working on the metal rib above.

My first idea was to simply 3D print the entire part, but I build this part at a later part during the project
when other metal looking parts were already finished. So, I decided to go the same route to match all the other
metal parts that I will show later.

I started by 3D printing one section of the ribs. Cause I needed this part 18 times in total I decided to
make a mold and cast it, as I had no intention in post processing the same part 18 times.



Next up was the two part mold. I covered the first half of the 3D printed piece with some clay.
I tried to hide the seam-line were both halves of the mold connect later on as good as possible.



I used Mold Star 30 for the silicone. Its more on the hard site and keeps its form quite well.





For the resin I used Smooth Cast 305, which has a longer pot life and is also pretty viscous. So I had enough time
to mix everything and fill up the mold. To make the metal effect shine later one, I also tinted the resin black.



Now the question was how I get the metal effect at all. I used a technique called cold-casting. The mold will be
covered with metal powder, for me aluminum, before casting. In addition, I mixed a portion of the metal powder
directly into the resin. After the cast, the parts looked grey and not metal at all.







My wife then cleaned up all the parts and removed the seam-lines. Afterwards, I polished all pieces with some steel wool.
Now they looked nice and shiny.







I cut out quite a bit to make room for the data ports below. Also did a quick weathering with brown and black wax.





Then it was attached to the case.

 

The next detail part was the DigitalStorm logo.
I needed to 3D print it in two pieces, cause my printer just wasn't big enough.



After sanding and the obligatory spray filler, I closed the last holes with some spot putty.





After everything was sanded again, the part was painted in grey.
To add a little more details, I used cylinder head screws on the edges.
Behind the logo, I installed some green acrylic that will be back light later.
The part was finished with a slight weathering with brown and black paint.





Then it also found it´s place on the case.

 

To hide some of the rough plywood edges I wanted to use some metal profiles to cover them.
Because the standard aluminum or steel profiles did not match the metallic tone of the rest of the
details, I decided to cast them as well again in the cold-cast technique.



Due to the casting process, the backside was a little rough and uneven. So I made a quick jig
to bring them down to the same thickness.





Next, they were polished with steel wool and weathered.



After cutting all pieces to length, I screwed them into place.







Next, I build a small name tag for the mod. I uses the same font as in the original Matrix movie.
Simply 3D printed some parts and cut the letters from vinyl and attached them to an acrylic sheet.



I didnt had screws in the right length, so I just cut some down to the size I needed.



Then the shield was attached to the case.

 

You did all this casting and printing in 2 weeks?!?

 

3 1/2 weeks. I had a week prior to that to prepare the 3D models already, so I could immediately start printing and casting.

The resin I used had a de-mold time of about 45 mins. I let it sit in the mold for about 1 - 1 1/2 hours so It would not deform when pulling it out.
Set it aside and let it completely cure over night. Although, silicone molds need to cool down, to prevent them from wearing out too quickly, I knew I only needed
a certain amount of castings. After two days all the castings for the profiles were done. The mold itself maybe took the longest to make, cause the silicone needed 8 hours to cure.
But I simply started with that in the evening and let it sit over night.

For the PLA printed stuff, straight forward. Printing over night. And on the next day the sanding, filling, wet-sanding and priming was don. So on the second day I could paint and weather it.
Let it sit over night in the cabin were my heater is located and on the third day it was ready for assembly.

For this project, I just shifted the work left and right, and worked all the parts I could, that were not curing, drying or what ever.
It was a real effort to sort all the images and videos at the end cause nothing was in order by any means

 

Nothing wrong in that.

 

Next up, the visually most noticeable details, the displays.
In total i planned to attach three of them to the outside of the case.
With this part I also started with 3D printing.



After post-processing everything was painted and weathered.









Then the displays itself were build into the new covers.





For the monitor in the front, I made a simple mount with just 4 3D printed profiles.







Then the display was already attached to the case. The two others will be mounted at a later point,
cause I still needed to figure out the position of other details first.

 

Then I worked yet on another detail. I wanted to add some cables as
a decorative element. So I needed some plugs which I first printed in resin.
Afterwards, a silicone mold followed.





Besides the silver tone, I was going for a second metal effect.
I made some castings and tested out different metal powders.



My choice then felt on the bronze powder.



Added some magnets into the plug to make the cables detachable for transport.





Next, I build a socket for tubes and a cover to hide holes in the case.
Again, I needed multiple ones, so it was cast again.



At this moment, time was becoming an issue. Thats why I chose a silicone with a way
shorter pot life. The molds were already ready to use just after about 40 minutes.





Thus parts were also fabricated, using the cold cast technique.





Then a quick weathering with brown and black wax.

 

Then I attached all the covers to the case and started
adjusting the tubes.







I failed to plug into the Matrix, so I simply created small mountings
to better attach the tubes to the case.





Also made a quick test if the covers were big enough to pull some
cables through in the bottom area. Looking good so far.

 

Next up, I started building another light element.
First the base segment.





Then the smaller parts that should fit inside. The mid-section should be light up green at the end.





Then some primer.



For the effect itself, I 3D printed small rings and soldered some SMDs, which were glued on.
After painting the base black and details bronze. The rings were glued into place.





The rings in the middle were cast from green resin to highlight the effect even more.





Then it was attached to the case. Later I will again add more tubes.

 

Light up mustard bottle nipples.
-sorry. I couldn't not see it.

 

Next, I made the data probe to log into the Matrix.
Started with a small mounting.



I made a 3D model and printed all parts in PLA and resin.



After post processing and assembly, I painted the data probe in silver.







And put it into place.



I also needed a tube that is connecting case and data probe. I took one of my cast plugs
and attached it to the back and mounted the tube into it.

 

Then I attached the displays to 2020 aluminum profiles to adjust the position later on.







Next, was the name tag using the same font as in the original movie.
Printed in resin and again maid a silicone mold. Used my pressure chamber to get rid of all
the small air bubbles in the silicone and casting. It was made by using the cold cast technique
once again. So that all the metal pieces looking the same.









Like with all the other part, I made multiple castings just to be on the save side.
You now can also see the difference between a fresh casting and the polished and weathered finished one.

 

Outstanding work and techniques, I'm always so impressed, not to mention your endless imagination