Very poor XP Temps

I have had an 1800+ for almost two years now. It has always run hot but stable, but with the current heat wave I need to look into the reasons in more detail.

With the case sides off, a zalman flower cooler and 80mm fan on it, the idle is @ 60deg C, recntly as high as 64 due too hot weather. The system has no other fan except PSU.

I have ordered a bigger fan to replace the zalman - a 92mm papst kicking 36cfm. I also plan to get the case sides back on and run two or three in/out fans to run air through the case, possibly with a blowhole at the top.

From what I have read my CPU should not be running this warm, a few months ago I reseated it but that made no difference. The only thing that I think might be causing the trouble is that I used some old thermal compound I had left over from an old evercool HS installation.

Is arctic silver worth a try ?

Do copper shims help in anyway or are they just to stop CPU cracking ?

Any ideas welcome

 

Using decent thermal compound should help to improve things... I'd give the Artic Silver a try, don't get it anywhere bu on the core though.

 

i would definately give artic silver a try generally has given poeple i know better temps, i had some bad experiences with mine it made my temp inc by 5degC, the only reason i used it was there was no goo on the bottom of the V7 and i was worried

i aslo have an 1800+ (palmino) with a Volcano 7 @ 44 degrees
and 33 deg C case temp

i would look at getting better air flow as well
my firend had a T-bird 1.4 in some Aopen case very bad cooling only 60mm outtake he was running at 60degC standard HSF
but now he got a PC-60 Lian-Li cpu dropped 15degC

same with me my temps from about 53 to 44 so i was happy
id go for those fans u were looking at
should really be worth it

any way better get those temps down kinda worrying that high

 

If your system is stable, then there isn't a problem.

I would suspect you are using something like motherboard monitor to read the temps?

These are notoriously unreliable, and while they can record the "size" of one degree quite accurately, so a range of 10 degrees will actually be spread by ten degrees, but the actual numbers are pretty close to being irrelevent.

I've seen someone trying to claim that there watercooling system kept their cpu at 7 degrees above ambient.

The problem, they were using MBM.

As long as it's stable, it should be fine, and provided your not overclocking, you shouldn't notice any effects. The AMD chips are fine up to 85 degrees.

8-ball

 

best advice i ever receieved was "uninstall MBM5 and stop worrying about it" and you know, it works

 

heh, I have the exact same temperatures. I'm using a fairly basic aluminium featsink with a 120mm fan. Currently it's idling at 57 with the case sides off, but during midday it'll probably rise to 60 at least. Before I got the 120mm fan I might have seem load temps of up to 75. Still it's never been unstable so I don't see the problem really...

 

I ahd a Flower on this XP1900+ used to get temps of about 50 with case sides off had arctic silver on it though, always have, switched to volcano 9 and got it down to about 42...

 

What mobo you got? You got the latest bios?

I updated my bios last night and my temps readings have gone from 67oC - load down to 40oc - load

 

Thanks for the feedback everyone.

I have ordered some Arctic silver 3, will let you know how it goes.

I am running a bios that was latest about 3 months ago, the board is an Asus A7v266E.

 

To be honest I used some thermal paste i got for about 33p out of a shop (3g syringe), and i got some AS3 later, and it didnt change my temperatures at all.
But most other people have, oh well.

Have tried getting a temp with a sensor other than the onboard??

-cLoWn

 

Mine didn't change neither with AS3 conpared to some silicone stuff..

 

I just bought some cheap compoundy silvery stuff, as i dont trust the white square peel of pad things that come on generic heatsinks that i put in peoples systems. and it performs same as AS3 :S

-cLoWn

 

I'm assuming MSI did the same as abit (I think).

They released an updated bios which simply shifted the temperature readout. The cpu is at exactly the same temp.

It's just they were receiving complaints from customers worried that their cpu's were running too hot, so they released a bios which gave a lower temperature. Apparently ist's to make people feel more comfortable.

If that isn't enough evidence to stop trusting the temperatures you get, then I don't know what is.


The on board and on chip diodes are very approximate, not calibrated and vary from board to board. Please do not take them as accurate, unless you are prepared to do as one of the admins at procooling.

He connected a hardware reader to the pins for the onchip diode, and after sealing the cpu, dunked it into waterbaths at various temps in order to calibrate the diode. But this calibration is only valid for his cpu, and is just about the only way you can calibrate it accurately.

Now can you see why the cpu manufacturers don't bother calibrating them. Too much effort. By AMD's own admissions, the onchip diode can be off by up to 10 degrees. It is merely there as a very rough safety precaution, to shut down your cpu before it gets too hot.

8-ball

 

do you have a fan in the bottom of your PSU? I didnt and when I replaced the PSU for a 2 fan model I got a huge drop in temperature. If you read the blurb on AMDs site they recommend this also - something to do with drawing air over the cpu area.....

After the new PSU I chenged my CPU cooler for a Volcano 9, and cut a hole in the side panel and stuck an 80 mm fan to it....

CPU before all this was approaching 60oc when really stressed, now I cant get above 44oC even during the current heat wave (the fan is using the sensor under the chip - the hotter the chip the faster the fan)

I just wish I recorded the temps as I made the changes, but hey you live and learn.

1800+ Palmino.

robdos

 

hi, i have got very poor 2500xp temps too, anyone suggest anything i can do to lower them? i use a slk800 and ys tech 45cfm fan, heatsink correctly installed.
1. would a 120 mm 190 cfm fan on a 80 to 120 mm adaptor work well?
2. are the 2500's bad generally.
3. which other porocessor would you reeccomend that i could run at 2.0 ghz? the 1700 amd? thx for helpin, and i use as3

 

yes..but your ears wouldn't.


but as mentioned above it may be an innacuracy in the mesurements - if it works fine then it works fine.

 

As DeX said, probably inaccurate measuring. My dads old soltek board said his temps were over 120 degrees, and you could put your finger on the heatsink and it was barly warm, let alone any wear near 120 degrees.
If you can get a thermal probe in there, then you could see what temps your are really running. Or just try the finger on the heatsink. The on board probes are just to stop major over heating, they detect if it goes stupidly high and shut down the system for safety.

Good luck with the cooling, you seem to have a decent enough setup to not worry about it.

-cLoWn

 

yea it seems fine but the thing is, the temp is high and im running it at 1600 mhz atm, i want 2.0ghz but with a temp of 48 on load, i cant go higher. another thing, when i goto control panel, system, it displays the processor. i bought an amd 2500xp but it says 1900+ as the processor. is this meant to be? or did i mash it somehow to get it down to 1900 from 2500? thx

 

If it says 1900 instead of 2500 then your FSB is set to 100 instead of 133

 

how do i change that? do i goto bios then change the number? atm it is on 150x11,,, im not sure if thats the fsb, so how come it says 1900, it is mashed?????