Thanks guys! Yo-DUH_87, I think if I keep the wood I will stain it a cherry-red. Lovah, So that's 200 Euro = 232.1659 US Dollar? Most Name-Brand LCDs here in the US start at $300. http://www.pricewatch.com Bu,bu,but I could paint it beige and it would match my keyboard!
Part 3: And If I solder this to that..... Now that the basics of the case are done, I need to rig the parts to fit. The first thing I had to do was extend the cable between the TFT and the MB that went with it. I cut the cable and soldered in a ribbon cable. It only took me about an hour. Next I wrapped the wires with tape to keep them from shorting out. Finnished product. Not sure what this will do to signal integrity, but I guess I will find out. Now to mount the speakers and wire. And place the TFT. Now to modify the TFT main board. I want all power to come from one source, so I removed the power connector for the "brick." My ATI card has a header for VGA, so I intend to use a ribbon cable to connect the Video card to the TFT main board. I placed a header receptical where th VGA port was on the main board (bottom in the middle): Close up. Then I placed a 12V connector for power. After that, I made the ribbon cable for the VGA connectors. It came from a game port card. Next I prepared a spot to mount the card. I need some air flow, so I cut a couple of holes in the top of the case. No comments about MB placement! Mounted the TFT main board and some wire mesh over the cut-outs. Also put some cable mesh (dont know if this is the correct term) over the wires. Checking the look. MB clearence. I ordered a riser card for the AGP slot. Part 4 comming up shortly.
Thanks but I don't think there is - I need to speak to my ISP but I need to get my housemate to do it as it's in his name.
Part 4: Sound, looks, and.... WHAT THE? I mentioned in Part 3 that I want all power coming from one source. Well, the power comming into the audio amp for the speakers is AC; however, I found 12V dc comming off of a full-wave rectifier (did I spell that righ?). Anyway I removed the rectifier and replaced it with a floppy-drive power connector. I also took a couple of audio connectors for a CD-ROM and wired them up to the input and output of the amp. Finally I replaced the volume/on-off switch with a header receptical. During this part of the mod I tore up some of the cheap *** traces on the back of the board. I repaired them and then put hot-glue on all the exposed parts. Here is the top view: I had to find a way to plug the KB in without having the wire hanging out of the back of the case. I didn't want to directly wire my KB to the connector on the MB because I want to be able to easily remove everything. I found a Mobile PS2 connector and relocated the port. Tested it out and it worked and everything! Remember the AGP riser card? Well I got it in, but hit didn't give enought room for the cards components to clear 3 of the PCI slots. So I removed them. Boy was I glad when it stil booted! I got all of the parts and put them into place. Next I made the back plate. I decided that the board that went just above the KB need to have a vent on it, so I went to work on that. Since this could be seen from the front, I decided my standard square would not do. Time for some dremel work! You can't see it well, but if you look directly from the front the top of AMD and Logo are up under the display. Measure twice cut once, measure twice cut once...... Oh well, I will have to redo it later. Here is the back view. If you look REAL close you can see the two 120mm fans I mounted under the wire mesh.
Ok, so that brings me to the point I am now. Things I still need to do: Temp sensors Power button Other buttons (reset, CD-Eject) latches from the front Case lights CD-ROM placement Volume controll Back panel side ventalation I would love for the cd rom to pop up next to the AMD logo, but I dont know if I have the room. I will have to do some thinking about this. suggestions are welcome.
awesome case man. How about polishing the wood when you are done? Sand it down to make it smooth, and then finish the wood with some sort of wood finish to make it last longer and look a lot better.
Definately one of the better wooden PC's I've seen. Going to suck when it starts giving you splinters.
ack! thats damn sweet. it would be a shame to finish the wood as you currently have it. look into laminates (not plastic, real wood) that you can adhere to the surface. there are many different varieties available (i use them all the time in a cabinet shop)... think about a burled maple: usually used in acoustic instruments! there are plenty of options available to you, and they are quite easy to use! frickin great job!
Keep us posted on how the lcd looks after splicing the cable to extend it. I'm about to do the same to a laptop lcd. Nice work on the wooden case.
Opus13, Thanks for the suggestion. I will definetly look into this as an option. Got any recommended suppliers or self-help guides? I think right now the plan is to do what Fyberwire suggested and go from there; however your way would look much better. The only thing is that I am already way over my woodworking abilities! Michaeln3, Its not perfect, but it hasnt bothered me. Best why that I can describe it is a slight interference rolling through the screen. I dont have anything shielded yet either, so there is no telling what is causing it. Playing Battlefield, I dont notice it at all. If I find root-cause I will post it here.
laminating is pretty damn easy.. all you need is: 1. the laminate 2. a router for trimming the edges (or a utility knife and a steady hand) 3. some scrap wood to practice on 4. tons of wood glue 5. bunch 'o' clamps. 6. half of a cd (grind it down) just smear a good amount of glue on the surface you are adhering to, smooth it out with half of a cd (works great for me), make a 'sandwich' with pieces of wood on top of the laminate once in place (remmeber: air bubbles are evil!) and clamp the hell out of it. let it sit over night, and you should be golden. considering what you have already accomplished, this really shoudnt be a problem for you practice with some cheap laminate (think: home depot) on scrap plywood to get a feel for its rigidity and 'cut-a-bility'. it is very easy to get the hang of. good luck!
Part 5: Now what Small update. I got some window latches for the lid; however they didn't work so I will have to find another means of doing this. Not too disapointed though. Didn't really like the look. Anyone know of a sweet looking silver latch? (for budget shoppers) I looked around a couple of craft stores and bulding supply and all I could find was brass. I also replaced the handle. This one is a bit bigger for a better grip. Here is both handles together. Updates are going to be slow for the next week or so. I am in the process of moving.
Use a tool box latch to hold the screen down Ya know the kind I'm talking about? Almost like the latches on jam jars and such. Dont know where to find em, but I'm sure you could find them at home depot or somewhere similar
Sure do, Like I said, I found a brass one. Guess no one likes silver that much. The other problem with that is that the big part of the latch is usually on the bottom. I need it to be on the top. I thought about something like this: http://www.itcelectronics.com/client/products/PEN l0954K.jpg It's got the same problem though; however on the plus side, I could lock it. Another problem I have is that it cant be bigger that 2.5" with only 1/2 an inch on the bottom. Didnt think about the tool box using it though. I will have to do a search on toolbox latches. Thanks! BTW - that's $9 US at ITC Electronicshttp://www.itcelectronics.com/default.asp
Test the monitor extension already!!! I have a bad feeling about the extension cable you put on it. Also, How the heck did you unsolder the PCI Slot connectors?
