The ATI/AMD 64-Bit Shuttle PC by ZapWizard

Ok last of the off topic....

Yes, this mouse rocks, the very instant you plug it in you have to turn down the speed because it is so sensative.
In games it is solid and fast.
(in fact the batteries died on my MX700, so tonight I played BF Vietnam with the MX510)

 

thank for the info bro, too bad they dont sell the damn things here in the forgotten land.

*makes sure the thread-direction lever is set back to Zapwizards ATI/AMD pc

 

A few suggestions: you should lift the piece you are cutting up by putting a sacrifisical piece undeneath it, so your primary piece doesnt melt and comes out looking better. It also looks like ether the laser isnt focused or your are using too much power.

other then that looks neat.

P.S. as i recal the Seasonic power supply uses that kind of grill. Oh btw i do belive you were first to post, but not first to design something like that

 

where is this blacking lucite guide?

 

I'm not sure if there is a project log on it but he did it as part of his "Macro Black" case. You can find the bit-tech article here

 

ahhh. yes, that one. that is already going to be used in my t@#$#@$^&* case.

 

Without reading the thread I guess the surfaces on the mouse mats are a key factor to this test... as you can see there are two different mats. The test should have had both the same mats AND the mat recomended for gaming from the mouse company. But I am sure they tested them on the same surface...

In several norwegian tests, the intellimouse 4 has won, on both accuracy and ergonomy. If you could read norwegian I would give you the url's. Again, I think the most important thing is that you find a mouse that suits your gamingstyle, and your needs. I think both the mewest logitech mouses and the Microsoft mouses are mighty fine gaming mouses

 

The peice is lifted while cutting, and it takes three low-power cuts to keep it from totaly melting through. But it still melts a little.
Actualy I was supprised that that grill even cut, I expected to use a larger honeycomb pattern.

Also the design we were talking about the copyright on is not the honeycomb design, but the flame-turbine design for the back of the case.

The Macroblack project by Macroman was really the first place I saw it.
But he used normal paint. I use vinyl dye which dry's in no time.

 

If you look just a little bit closer, you'd have seen they did use the same surface for both mice. And I don't think mousing companies recommend any surface at all. But I don't think there is much difference between different mousing surfaces where it comes to the readability by the optical sensor of any optical mouse...

 

I'm a little suprised that the black vinyl dye turned out so well. I would have thought that it might have given the acrylic a texture on the backside that would show through but from the pictures it looks like it cam out great. I'll have to keep that in mind for my own future projects. Vinyl die certainly is a lot easier to deal with.

 

Ok how about some more eye candy....

I have lots of little things that are getting done.

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First an image of the Radeon as it will look in the case window.
(The window is not complete yet)

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And a night shot.

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Here is an image of power supply side of the case.
I am now debating whether or not to make this a window or an etch.
(Or an etch covering the back of the PSU only)

The only real thing to show off on this side is the memory, and the cabling.

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With the windows and fans installed I can do a thermal test on the PC.
I taped off any extra holes that air may pass through.

This is also the closest to complete image so far.

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Here is the system after running idle for 20 minutes.

Note that the Cool'n'Quiet feature of the Athlon64 lowers the CPU core to 800mhz
Also the ASUS Radeon has its own low-power feature, where it clocks the GPU acording to the CPU load.
The GPU is clocked at 398Mhz when idle.

Both the CPU and GPU fans are also thermaly controlled.

Here are the temperatures:
Room: 80F 26C
PSU: 115F 46C
CPU: 98.6F 37C
MB: 115F 46C
GPU: 136F 58C

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Then a 20-minute CPU burn-in test using Toast.
Note the CPU and GPU both raise their speed to meet demand.
The CPU clocks up to 2.2Ghz, and the GPU clocks up to 438Mhz

Here are the temperatures:
Room: 81F 27C
PSU: 139F 59C
CPU: 131F 55C
MB: 125F 52C
GPU: 145F 63C

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Lastly a 20-minute Graphics burn-in test using benchmarks and games.

Here are the temperatures:
Room: 80F 26C
PSU: 133F 56C
CPU: 114F 46C
MB: 125F 52C
GPU: 145F 63C

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I may add some fresh-air vents to the GPU side window to lower the GPU tempatures.

 

looks realny good! those led fans look realy bright
One question, are you gonna paint the drive cage etc?

 

lookin good ace especially the vid card, awesome effect.

regarding the right hand window, i reckon some kind of etch or decal on the PSU would be cool. As opposed to an etch on the window itself. That would take make the PSU a feature of that side of the case like the RAM and the cabling.

i think Balder's idea is a good one too. The steel of the case innards looks a little off, if u painted it all black it'd show of the 9800 and the other internals more effectively.

finally, are you going to fill the little vent holes at the bottom of each window?

 

this project is amazing don't get me wrong but wouldn't it be so much cooler if u could make it water cooled also? Many people have done it in sff's and it makes the prject so much better.

 

I have been told that paint, even with primer, doesn't stick to bare alluminum that well. Anyone got confirmation on that?

They are already filled, the case just needs it's final paint job.

Watercooled would be great, except this PC is going to be shipped everywhere and need to be setup by non-technical workers.

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/Edit:
I tried something yesterday with curious results
I taped off the blow-hole fan, and the system temps actualy went down a little.
I think this is due to the fact that the airflow is then forced out over the GPU and PSU, rather then out the top of the case.

So the blow-hole fan may be removed, and moved to the front of the GPU.

 

paint should stick to the alu, u'd have to give a good sanding tho and then a coat of primer. Might end up being too difficult with the small size of the drive cage etc. Heres one occasion where u'd want to steer clear of your beloved Vinyl Dye tho as that is assured not to stick.

With those 7-pin jacks, will there be any kind of labeling/color coding etc so that people dont plug in the wrong devices? Perhaps some documentation to accompany the pc might not be such a bad idea.

 

I can assure you both that bare alluminum can be primed and painted just fine. Just use automotive type primer and paint it.

P.S. First post here!

P.P.S. Love your work Zap!

 

I do have bare metal primer, and good metal paints.
I could probably use a wire-brush to rough up the metal in the hard to reach area's.
But painting the inside of the case will be a "if time permits" mod.
As I now have a tentative deadline for mid-July.

All the front jacks are totaly universal. They all have the same pin-out, and are all USB. So it doesn't matter which plug you use.

 

There should be no need to scuff up the metal, just clean it (allways a good idea when painting, use acetone or something of the like), spray primer, then paint. It's just another metal, nothing special.

 

As long as you use a good grade paint and a good primer then it should stick fine. I would also give the cage a flat clear coat. But hell who am I to try and give advise to the great Zap...