Awesome work. I've been thinking about building a table for my router for ages. You might have just inspired me......
#10.1 / Fence: I made some cuts (is this a dado?) which will serve as guide for the fence. Cuts were not deeper than 2mm depth for each step. Total depth is ca. 20mm. The router slipped once, I had to correct that. #10.2 / Fence: I used a template (created with 30mm forstner bit + 6mm router bit) to cut precisely with a 17mm guide bushing and a 12mm router bit. The dado(?) will guide a carriage bolt.
Pretty sweet, master Gnidnu Had to google the part on the guide bushing though. (was not familiar with the term ) So - the bolts goes up thru the table top - am i wrong to assume, that your fence will be attached to these bolts? And if so - what do you have up your sleeve in order to have the fence moving in a straight 90 degrees angle towards the position of the routerbit? This is one of the things that trickers my mind...
@DragonONE: You'll find out about the bolts when clicking on the second link below. Oh, and your post made me actually install some guidance tracks. Not the t-tracks I wanted to use before, but still useful. -------------------------------- #11.1 / Fence and Guides: Finally, I'm approaching completion. Even though it's not finished yet, I can use the router table now. As last time, I used a template. In this case, I used it for cutting an immersion (<- right word?). By the way, the carrigiage bolts as seen in the last update are now being used. Lobe knobs are screwed on to fix the fence quickly and easily. Fence faces ared guided by slots. After choosing an appropriate gap size, fence faces are fixed by wingnuts. Then, a depth gauge is being used for horizontal and vertical adjustment. #11.2 / Mounting Plate and Routerlift: The mounting plate is a aluminium plate, 5mm thick with a couple of holes in it. It looked a little ugly, so I decided to quickly brush one side with abrasive paper. Looks much better now. The sub-base of the router was used as a template for drilling the holes. The router is fixed by special screws with flat countersunk head. The knob fixes the screw when in place. M4 countersunk screws and threaded inserts keep the mounting plate in place. In the last picture, you can see how I inserted them at right angle. Router height adjustment is done by car jack. After lift, I usually remove the car jack because it might shroud (<-correct expression?) ventilation slots and damage plastic body. I got that idea from here (German thread).
Hello again Gnidnu. Most happy to see the update It's looking really good. The idea of using a car lift for height adjustments is brilliant. That solved a couple of my concerns Your fence is very nice as well. I did not think of making the panels horisontal adjustable.. nice one. Just have a couple of thoughts: - Have you considered to countersink the bolts? I don't know if it ever is going to happen, but what if the subject you are routing is higher than the bolts position? - How about a small housing on the back of the fence (where you have the clearance for the routing bit) where you could plug a vacuumhose into? That could get rid of some of the dust I recon.. Anyway... I think it's looking mighty fine. I know what my next project if going to be once I get my hands on a router...
Concerning your thoughts: The router table is not finished yet. I will use countersunk bolts in the final version, just didn't have any when shooting the last photos. Otherwise, I couldn't use the fence properly. Also, a small housing for vacuum cleaner connection will be added on the back, as well as a protection cover in front. There are a couple of things that still need to be build, like fence face t-tracks, t-track flip stops, knobs for unguided cutting, featherboards, mitre gauge, movable guided right angle fence, u-channel stopping system, ventilation etc. Most of that stuff will be build by using the router table.
Impressive I can see that you have a lot more in mind than I imagined Especially looking forward to see your mitre gauge and the feather boards..
That is superb work Once you've removed the scissor jack, how do the bolts hold the router at that specific height?
