Heheh, well doesn't that make me a bit of a premature smart ass. I am using LCD Smartie (5.3.2) -- works well as far as I can tell. I haven't played with it that much because I'm not sure how, or if, the Palm display is going to fit into the mod. Say, are your pictures up yet? Cheers.
sweet, looking good on that radiator, im sure that’s going to be a prized part of your computer room. people walk in the room "what the hell is that thing?!?", in which you replay “that’s my radiator!! Ohhhhh yeah” so yeah, that is looking sweet, cant wait for a temp check with the fins added :d, how are you going to guarantee good thermal conduction from the radiator pipes to the fins?
http://www.photoshopcafe.com/tutorials/segmented pipes/segmented pipes.htm Do exactly as it says here, just without the desaturate (go straight from the copper to the curve).
It's pretty simple to you. Just go into setup and there you can configure up to like 20 pages worth of info. On the left, there are a bunch of tabs concerning different topics. Ex there is system info. You go there and you just pick like memory usage % and click incert on one of the page and a specific line and there you go.
WOW the last time I saw this you had just started the northbridge block, this brilliant, loving the rad and I hope you have lots of fun with this. BTW: nice case -Fank
Yeah, Baby, yeah! Gonna braze the sweet bejeebus outta them! OK, so copper-phosphorous may not have the same thermal properties as pure copper, but it sure beats using epoxy.
sorry for jumping on the bandwagon but can i ask were did you purchase the barbs with thread already there? also the top of you chipset block is that just a single sheet of copper that you cut the holes out of then tapped before you screwed the barbs in?
The barbs on the CPU and chipset are made by Innovatek and purchased from FrozenCPU.com. Barbs on the pump came with the pump. All others are standard push-to-connect fittings purchased from McMaster.com The top of the both blocks are 48oz copper sheet with holes drilled then tapped. For the GPU block, I'm going a different route -- the base will be the copper sheet, and the milled block will sit on top. You see in previous pictures that the holes for the fittings are drilled all the way through the block to make it work. Cheers.
thats great cheers, and the base you tinned? what does that mean, its like welding? does the site you got your materials from deliver to the UK? where can i find a uk supplier for my copper? i will be using coolercases for my screws and barbs 1/2inch already tapped etc also how easy would you say it is to include a lucite/acrylic top? also i take it the dimentions of the copper block you got were say 2" x12 long x1/2 inch thick? also is this following pic from imageshacke true? 88mm hole to hole for the a64 mounting
Tinning refers to the preparation of the material to be joined by putting a thin layer of the solder on it before the join is made. I assume this used to done using real Tin, hence the name. Uh, don't know, but I bet you could check the site and find out. I suspect Guildford Boy, errr.... I mean Frodo could help you out. Sorry, I have no experience with acrylic. Dimensions of copper block are correct. Thickness of the waterblocks increases by about 1/16-inch with the addition of the 48oz sheet for the top. Looks about right, but again, I'm not an expert so you might want feedback from others before proceeding. Cheers.
I've got to get that dang motor fixed on my drill press so I can finish the GPU and HDD blocks. Once those are done, I think that's officially it for Ode to Silence. I'm debating on adding a window to the case, but the Lian Li is so lovely just the way it is. Sigh. Next project will continue with the art deco, retro-steam look, but will focus more on the cases. Cheers.
Update September 16 Disaster! My mobo fizzled out last week. Oh, the humanity. On the bright side, it wasn't my CPU or RAM that decided to die. I've never had a mobo die on me before. Anyhow, after my experience with the ASUS A8N-SLI, I decided not to get another one, but instead went for an MSI, with which I have plenty of good experience. So, in a fit of rage.... err... I mean in an attempt to make the best of the situation, I decided to re-organize my work area during the down-time. Here's a good shot depicting my mental state at the time: Yes, indeed, stipped down case, PCI cards lying all over. Ah, glorious. Also, I made some initial attempts at wire management: Yes that's the router and VONAGE IP phone thingamabob, nicely stuck onto the backside of the desk. So, the MSI mobo OF COURSE had different hole placements for the chipset retention pins. Well, I quickly whipped up some extensions for the waterblock, and in true ghetto style, epoxied them onto the blocK: Damn! That's a close call between the block and the graphics card. Another pic: And the mobo in all its glory: Back on the construction of the radiator -- here I am attempting to get some fins level: Brazing turns out to be more of a pain in the butt than I had originally thought. Just when I think I've got the hang of it, I FUBAR another joint. Here's a joint that I thought proved to the world that I was now a brazing god: And this is all I could manage on the next round: Ackkck! PHPHththt! And yes, I cleaned everything in between brazing attempts: Three fins and six joints done: I now have 5 of the 6 internal fins done, and I believe I am giving brazing the old one (or two) finger salute. I've purchased some Artic Silver epoxy and may finish the radiator with that. Unless one of you masters out there tells me otherwise. In the meantime, I'm making a base for the radiator. Some construction materials: The wood is 3/4-inch poplar, which I'll stain a nice, deep red with this: I cut the poplar board into 3 squares, decreasing in size, then glued 'em together: I made a small mounting for the 4-way manifold, which will be perched just behind the pressure gauge. Here you can see the test-fit of the radiator as a red brick holds down the manifold mount: Close up: And after one coat of the stain: That's it for today. Cheers.
That is some nice work. I tryed to make my own waterblack and I stoped when I found out a tap and die kit was like an easy $100CDN. What program do you use for the 3D prototypes?
Alibre. Great program. Yeah, I was bummed about the cost of taps too. I just purchased the one size that I needed for this project.
Update September 18 Thanks! Moving ahead with the radiator base. The intake manifold needed a small riser to allow the fitting to rest on the wood base, so of course I made it out of some spare copper: Here's the manifold sitting on it: Next, I made a hold-down bracket, again from some spare copper. The bending rig: A couple of (slightly less than perfect) bends: And fastened to the base, holding the manifold down: Reassembling the radiator onto the base: And a couple of top shots, to distract you from the fact that I still haven't put the external fins on yet: It's alive!!! Mu-ha-ha-ha!!! Of course, realizing it too late, I'm thinking that it might work better if both the intake and outflow are on the same side -- at the back of the pressure gague. Well, that would take a bit of work, so I'll leave it for now. Cheers.
Very neat project. I dig the work, very impressive w\ juts a drillpress. A X-Y vise isn't going to help you much, you need a rightous tabel. I've tried milling copper with my vise and the darn thing just wiggles like an SOB. Works great for plastic though! What's the gauge on the radiator base for? temperature? pressure?
I know about the wiggles! You can see that the channels in the chipset block I made are not so clean. Well, I'll just have to save up for a real mill then. Gauge is for pressure. Measures inches of dihydrogen monoxide. There's a close-up of it in an earlier post. Cheers.
