wow... i love this project, i love aquacomputer just ordered Aquacomputer WaterCooling gotta luv ur projects (y)
Looking at the front panel, I see all the other red acrylic panels have 4 bolts each. I'd stick with that if it the unbolted holes in the plate beneath don't show through much. Also, if you paint the plate, are you going to do it in a way that you can see the lettering or is that not a priority? I'm not sure I see the point of putting it on if you aren't showing the AC badge. You could leave the face bare and paint the edges to match the case so that it blends but still see the script. An idea just occured while I was writing. In the two holes you don't use on the plate, you could put in LEDs or maybe set it up with some fiber optic ends. Just a thought to fill the holes.
How about sandwiching the metal between two pieces of acrylic? Perhaps drill some holes through the metal to let some light through. For some real bling figure out a way (maybe EDM) to get the lettering cut all the away though the metal and have the AC name lit up.
I know ..Your right...Sorry no update.. I did "put-in" about 6-hours on the other project..Check it out...It's worth a view..(IMO) It seem's "lame" to link my other project with this one.. and I will not .. Thanks for the feed-back on the front panel..Still thinking/dreaming........
I really like your mod, expecially because it's not overdone. Not to much. This mod is just enough, not to little, not to much. Really like this one. Maybe because I'm Lian Li horny , I have a PC60 now....ready to mod it!
Superb machine modsquad, I had not checked in on it for quite a while but I am happy to see it's actually working now. I kind of wish you'd wrap it up though with some great (professional if you can spring for it) photographs to show off your detail. A lot of your work and discussion here are so thorough that they deserve threads of their own. Your cooling routing, plex work and wiring to name a few. I think many modders could learn a lot from this copious thread if it were in several tutorials, and your Aqua tech stuff in a thread of it's own. Once again, an awesome mod.
wow i just got through reading all of it, took me about 4 or so hours great work I can't wait to see it completely finished
I'm only a bit worried about two things right now, and both are fairly easy to address I think. First, the optical drive stealthing bay just seems oddly out-of-place sandwitched between the two red acrylic bits. Either moving the Aquaero setup up or the etched section down would seem to work in my mind, but it seems not-quite-right as it is. The other thing is the port-cover piece you've just been working on. The mock-up picture seems to have it a little too high in my eyes, where the port-holes won't be sufficiently covered. Maybe I'd just have to see it with the acrylic back there. Other than that, it's still looking superb, fit-for-a-king. Pulling the paper off the bottom acrylic had just the effect I thought; MUCH less overpowering and lets some subleties shine through for an excellent effect. MAYBE consider a single 3mm white LED placed behind that port-cover for a nice glow effect. I'm almost afraid to mention the idea... red acrylic to replace the SS backplate on the 6800 block I'd worry about it a) being overkill and b) not having enough strength for the floating-core spring
First off, a few new pictures: The "stacking order" of the etch, drive and Aquaero can not be changed. The DVD drive can not be placed in the top (it will bump into my reservoir) and the Aquaero has to be in the bottom bay (the flow meter resides behind the chrome bulkhead-cover) changing than would "mess-up" my H20 loops look, which I like..An old picture to jog your memory: I am not as opposed to using the LL drive cover as you seem to be. I think they look good. But, I hate to do the "standard-stealth" deal with a LL bay cover and a red acrylic plate over the top and two screws threaded into the DVD drives disc-drawer..It was cool two years ago, but IMO it's been done to death..You see that method on a lot of machines.. My idea is to use the frame of the LL CD cover and make a red acrylic door, in fact I did just that: the hinge is the problem..I have yet to come up with a viable option. So until that time (or till the end of time): The USB port cover: Finished the acrylic and mocked it up again...I just don't like it..I did not even bother taking pictures..It's not workin' for me (too gaudy)..need to start the thought process over for that area of the case.. I still need to do the PCI slot covers with red acrylic inserts (the way I did the temp probe plate).. just have not had the time (so many small details left on this project) I would not replace the stock GT6800 plate with acrylic alone, I don't think it would hold-up.. That's it..Not so much an update, more a state of affairs or a laundry list of things to do.That is where the projects stands as of 10/28/05..(and running great)
Hmm... replacing the door thing with acrylic entirely is a cool idea. I don't think the LL covers are ugly - in fact I love them, it just seems out-of-place between the red.
All Innovatek parts have 1/4" BSPP holes/threads, even though some are often listed as being BSPT in the states. The P on the end denotes that the pipe/thread is parallel and the T is Tapered. The G prefix seems to denote a BSPP format since R refers to BSPT, or so I think... Just cause want to type, many of Aqua Computer's parts are G1/8" or 1/8" BSPP. A few parts are G1/4". Most other German/European outfits tend to use G1/4" threads too and Thermochill uses 3/8" BSPT. Also, there are BSPP/BSPT to NPT adaptors available.
I this is a waaay old picture, but I was just wondering what dremel bit you used for cutting out the hole, as me thinks that a cuttingdisc would be somewhat awkward. Also, what method did you use for cutting out the red, acrylic plexitop for the res?
