I didn't want to hijack this thread, so here I am wondering how to create a nice even bevel on the edges of a 48"x48" piece of acrylic. It doesn't have to be amazingly precise, I just want it to be a smooth edge, but have no fancy tools. I have some sandpaper, a jigsaw,and a dremel, that's it. What can you recommend is the best way to accomplish this with the available tools I have. Thanks
that will be difficult to do without fun cutting tools. i've milled quite a bit of acrylic and it pushes very hard. a jigsaw will probably just crack into it. a dremil might get too hot and i dont want to even think how much work would go into sanding down a bevil. however that might be your best bet. create a jig with the bevil you want so that you can go along the edge, sand it down then use a torch to clean it up at the end.
thanks h2o, well let me ask you this, what tool can i buy that would make this project easier? reasonably priced of course
a router and a beveling bit is the easiest way. Get a cheap router. should be enough. (one with a speed regulator is recommended, though..)
link doesn't work properly. Why do you need a table? just tape up the piece for protection, so the router doesn't scratch. the bevel bit should have a ball bearing on the end, so the edge gets smooth.
i fixed the link, it *should* work now. anway I figured i would need one because I have no idea what im doing with a router lol, I guess I can't picture how it all works in my head.. maybe I'll pick one up and experiment on some scrap plexi i have laying around thx for the help.. if i ever finish this project I'll definately post it up here
When i bought my router i just needed it for something small. I could have done it with a drill and some router bits (done it before. It's nasty and scary, but it works) It's always nice to have tools handy for all those small jobs.
A coarse sanding drum on your dremel, a file, some sandpaper and a lot of patience will work just fine. There are also metal bits made for wide engraving that could be angled and used to bevel plastics. Of course a router will get a much more perfect cut much easier.
Techx Ahh ok, But I assume I'd need a table to go with it, i dont see why you would have to buy the table, what i did was, i bought a sheet of 3/4" construction grade plywood $16 for 4x8 sheet cut down to 24"x48" and 5 8' 2x4 $2.15 ea (cut 3 pieces from 4 of the 2x4 to make the frame, legs and supports for the table and used the 5th 2x4 for making a fence) i had had some 1/4'' plexi so i used that as the router base to fit in my table put it together with some screws and i have a really nice router table that can handle large work pieces such as table tops and counters gives me 1052 SQ In compared to your 336 SQ In on that ryobi table also i wouldnt waste your money on a budget router usually you get what you pay for Smilodon Why do you need a table? just tape up the piece for protection, so the router doesn't scratch. the bevel bit should have a ball bearing on the end, so the edge gets smooth. a router table is so much safer and produces way better results then using the bearing method, due to the bearing following the contour of the piece your working on where as the fence uses more of the piece to align with the bit,but it wouldnt work for making a beveled joint anyway
thanks for the info blame.. i went to home depot yesterday looking at the routers.. man, the cheapest one is $60 and it has no speed adjustments, and the ones that look like decent quality are $100-$250.. it's hard for me to justify that just for this small project.. I did see some dremel router bits and attachments though, the 615 looks like it would create a nice rounded edge, so I may have to "make do" with that, even if it is more work
i would look for a 1/8" shank 45 Deg Chamfer with at least a 3/8" cutting length bit but i dought you will find a bit to match in the 1/8" shank bits Smilodon blame: that's why you clamp it to a workbench with a straight edge. i will agree this will get the job half@ssed done but i still think its better to use a table and fence
blame: as for your other question, i dont have a truck or lots of power tools for that matter, so i can not easily make my own table, i'd never fit a 4x8 piece of plywood into my car and if i did get it home it would take a long time to cut it down with a dremel This is crazy, all this deep discussing just to get a simple beveled edge on acrylic.. sigh, thanks for the feedback though, this forum rocks
techx well just to clear some things up here i was just stating what i did for a router table but anyway
Just a side note about table fence vs bearing: Yes, using the table fence will make the bevel more uniformly straight. But, if your edge is imperfect, it will make the bevel look worse. wherever the edge pulls away from the fence, the bevel becomes shallow (and if the edge is really bad, no bevel at all). A fence only works well if the piece was fence-cut on a table saw to begin with. If your edge is not perfectly straight to begin with, then using the bearing on the router bit makes the bevel uniform along the entire edge.
Just tape off the sides about a 1/4" from the edge and use a seesaw back and forth over the edge. Like when you sand something round. That should work use like 160 and work up to about 2000 flame polish or use a rubbing compound. Routers are highly likely to crack acrylic and kill you.
i've done some serious research about entry-level routers, and without a doubt, you can't afford to go cheap on it. a $50 fixed speed fixed base 1/4" collet will leave you wanting from the moment you turn it on. the porter cable 690 series is the industry standard for the 1 1/2 HP range, and there are similar models from all major brands. The best bang-for-buck imho has to be the new hitachi m12vc series. i have the fixed/plunge variable speed kit and it's the best investment i've made for my shop since my table saw. the specs that are most important for a router are: variable speed, 1/4 and 1/2" collets, and a wide selection of accessories. everything else is just personal preference. you can look up plans for a DIY router table online or in most popular woodworking magazines. using a table vs a bearing bit is a matter of material size and thickness. routing a full sheet of plywood on that little ryobi table linked above just isn't gonna happen, whereas routing the edge of a 5" square is suicide handheld with a bearing bit. thinner materials are safer on a table as well, since you will need extra clearance under the material for the mounting screws on the bit. as far as the material exploding, that's why the variable speed is critical: slower speeds are safer on brittle stuff like that. use pushblocks and safety guards and the like and you *should* be fine. I say that from experience--i almost lost the first three fingers on my left hand to a tablesaw without a blade guard!
I believe they make plastic bits for routers and such, so you'd probably want that. But your by hand method would work. I would suggest starting with a lower grit like 40 or 20 however, you'll remove more material faster. A file will work too, a rasp even quicker, but it's likely to chip. If you rasp along the edge, lengthwise, it might not chip. Even if it does, you can use it to remove larger amounts of material and smooth it down later. You could also remove a lot of material quickly with a hot knife. Be wary of fumes, however.
Unless you're being incredibly unsafe and using the worst router and bit possible, the acrylic most likely will not crack and definately not kill you. As always sharp tools are essential but a router and table would definately be the easiest and safest way to do get an even bevel. If you want a visably uneven bevel and hours upon hours of sanding, try the above method
