Scratch Build – In Progress Project: IDF Sniper, updated 25'th of June

Hi, and greatings from Israel
I've been lurking around modding forums for the last 3 or 4 years (present company included). It took me some time to gather all the stuff I needed for the project, and finally it begins. The inspiration behind this mod came from the "Ammo Box" pc I saw a few years ago, here:
http://mini-itx.com/projects/ammobox/

On with the mod...



The case is an ammo box of the .50 caliber BMG (12.7 mm) for the Barrett M82 (aka M107). I used to operate one of these bad mofo's in the IDF,
and they really kick some ass (and your shoulder as well). Note the metal plates in the front of the picture, they are the base for the entire computer. To make the building (and possible future changes) easier, the computer will be based on a chassis built from these plates, connected by 4 screw rods. It will be possible to remove the chassis from the ammo box just by opening the lid.

The internal arrangement of the chassis, and other parts:


Chassis sketches are not to scale/size! The final build will look a bit different.

<- Motherboard box

<- Motherboard bundle: board, I/O guard, Molex to SATA power splitter, IDE cable, 2 x SATA cables, COM cable, quick installation guide and drivers cd.

Mother board on a base plate:


As is seen in the picture, the plate is a bit too small. I will address this issue in the next update.

A collection of old fans:


I will probably use the one on the right as the front fan. If the computer gets too hot, I might enlarge the front panel hole and install something bigger.

Front panel view with lid open:


See the circle in the case? That will be the front panel ventilation hole.

Back side with lid removed:


This area will be the rear exhaust and I/O ports. I do not know yet how big the hole will be, will be determined later in the build.

Motherboard, ruler and memory:


Damn, this thing is small! That is a 15 cm ruler.

Various bits:


PSU (most cables will be removed), screw rod (across the picture with nuts), aluminum panel (will be back panel box), rubber case feet (from an old HP case), and a pair of D-SUB 15 male/female (VGA extension cable)

Side view of ammo box:


Writing on the side (direct translation, not correct english):
80 Bullet 0.5"/Regular
Series ###
To be used in a sniper weapon
Cat. No. ###


Tools of the trade:


Masking tape, green paint (hopefully the color of the case), a file and a clamp

Hardware:
Motherboard - IEI KINO-9654G4 (more info - http://www.ieiworld.com/EN/product_IPC.asp?model=KINO-9654G4)
CPU - Intel E6850 (ordered, should arrive soon)
Memory - 2 x 1GB 667 mhz, value ram by Kingston
PSU - a used HEC 350 Watt I have. Need to check it, if it's bad, will be replaced.
DVD - I have a slim laptop drive, details later
HDD - Undecided as of now, probably a 500 GB
LCD - Undecided as of now, probably 19" or bigger

Bear in mind this is a work/coding/surfing computer, not a game machine. Also, the project won't have much "bling" to it, being a military themed mod, i.e. no cathods at all, very few leds (power/hdd activity). Also, it will be air cooled and not overclocked, due to the tight space I'm limited to.

Things to do this weekend:
1. Attach MB to base plate
2. Cut 4 parts off the screw rod, drill base plates and assemble chassis of case
3. Cut ventilation holes on bottom & front of case

Expect an update tomorrow! Suggestions and ideas are always welcomed
/me has gone modding...

 

Could be nice Good luck

 

looks nice, will hope to see more of it.

i got to ask you. the mobo u are using is just what i need for my server, where can i get it in Israel?

 

Is it possible to build the case so you don't need to cut the outside of the case? It seems unfair to ruin the waterproof feature. I would build it so the connectors and fan holes are just under the lid. When you need to travel, just close the lid and it's waterproof again.

 

"Long day at the office..."

Thanks for the replies people

@IaKoVl: I bought it from EDCO tech. Go to http://www.edco.co.il. Be advised, this isn't an internet computer shop, it's a company dealing with industrial computing.

@Cheapskate: This case isn't meant to be mobile. It is possible to do as you suggested, I just don't need it to be watrproof.

As promised, an update.

Tape it up:


Areas to be cut:

The case is upside down. On top you see the bottom ventilation hole marked for cutting, and the front circular hole (where there is no masking tape).

Motherboard risers:

I'm using my own risers, and this is how they look.

First section to be cut from the screw rod:


Half an hour later...


Areas on the motherboard base plate to be cut, then curved back:


Bottom hole cut!


Front hole cut!


Front fan held in place:

This fan (along with the back fan) will exhaust hot air from the case.

Chassis is ready:

After a lot of drilling and grinding, I can assemble the chassis for the first time.

And how the chassis will sit in the case:


Motherboard risers installed:


Motherboard almost installed...

Alas, it turns out my screws diameter is way too big. I'll have to file them down from 7.9 mm to 6.4 mm, next update.

Also, a lot of small electronics near the screw holes:

Check out those small resistors (or what ever they are) next to the screw hole in the center of the picture.

Conclusions:
1. Protection! Always wear eye protection goggles, and use a respirator. Cutting metal results in a lot of fine metal dust.
2. Tape, tape, tape! Use masking tape like a mad man. I kept hitting the case all the time, and I should have completely taped it up from the start.
3. Red dust bad, grey dust good - Red means your just dusting the dremel disc, grey means your cutting metal. Sparks are also good. It means the metal is hot and easier to cut. Don't be afraid of sparks while cutting.

That's all the update for now, I hope I'll have new stuff next week.

 

a small update

A small update in advacne of the weekend modding, some hardware bought:
HDD - WD5000AAKS - 500 GB
92 mm fan
USB Hub

After the shopping, I went to a good friend (known as Eladisimo) to check the motherboard, the memory and the PSU. Eladisimo helped me with the choice of the CPU I ordered and also lent me his CPU (and also screen/keyboard/mouse) for the hardware checking. We just checked if the board works with the rest of the hardware, passes POST, enters the BIOS, recognises the HDD and the memory. All is in good order. Eladisimo also donated two switches (N.O.) with cables for the power/reset buttons, and a cable organizing tube for the PSU cables (Thanks man!).

A picture of the aforementioned hardware (hope you'll forgive me it was taken with a mobile phone, the better camera isn't with me):

 

I like the ammo box case mods. Gives me a idea on what I could do with mine.

Over here in the US we have a 20mm version but it is mostly a custom gunsmith rifle. Anzo Iron Works it can even have a silencer.

A friend of mine has been trying to get a hold of a Barrett M95.

 

@Rob - Holy crap, a 20mm rifle! Would be interesting to take one to the firing range:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXLRYf9EV2Y (take a look at 2:40 minutes into the video)

An update a bit late, but still an update:
I have yet to receive the pictures from last week's motherboard test, but I carried on with the project nonetheless.

Distance between base plates:


It's a bit hard to see the numbers, but the distance now is around 11.5 cm. I'm not sure I'll be able to fit into this distance, a motherboard, cpu heat sink, and a psu (without the metal covering box). Until I get the cpu and heat sink, not much can be done on this issue.

Installed motherboard:


I finished downsizing the screws heads, as also seen in the next picture.



The motherboard, as it will be in the final case:


More equipment for the project:


I already mentioned the usb hub in a previous post, I coated the silver cable (color doesn't fit the project theme) with black heat shrink insulation and there's still more work to be done (a light fix up, painting). Also, a mouse from your favorite software monopoly a known software company and a keyboard by Dell. Both will be painted and changed a bit.

Things to change in the keyboard:


The Dell logo on the upper left has to go before painting, and also the 3 buttons above the function keys row. The sleep button on the bottom right also has to go.

Building the front fan holder:


Take an old broken 5.25 plastic bay cover...

Location testing:


The pencil drawn half circle marks the location of the front ventilation hole. The fan needs to be elevated...

Another location test:


The fan is almost in place, still need to drill 2 more screw holes and carve out some of the plastic (so it won't interfere with the fan airflow).

Fan vs. ventilation hole:


The fan is a few mm too high, but that can be easily amended.

The final device:


Power / Reset buttons:


Both buttons contributed by Eladisimo (see previous post) in the device I built to hold them. The whole thing will be inside the case, and from the outside only 2 buttons will be visible.

There is still much work to be done, and I hope to make a big update next week.

 

just a few testing pictures

Not much of an update, but these are the testing pictures of the motherboard I did over at Eladisimo's place:

 

That rifle is insane.

Are you sure you will have enough room for everything? A .50 ammo box is not that big.

 

Actually, no. I hope that I'll get the cpu and heat sink this week/tomorrow so that I can check distances over the weekend.

 

just bummer

Got my brand new, shining and fresh out of the box E6850:




Thermal paste on the heat sink:


The picture was taken with flash on, but the thermal paste is actually grey as in the next picture (sans flash).



So I installed the cpu on the board, plugged in everything else, turned the psu back switch on and pressed the power switch on the board...
Alas, it doesn't work. More precisely, it turns on for a few seconds, then off, then on again, then off... Ad nauseum.
According to board specs, it supports all E6xxx Intel cpu's. This may be true, but I guess not for cpu's with a 1333 MHz FSB. The board only supports 1066 MHz FSB cpu's. Bummer.
So there you have it, not much of an update. There's a small chance I'll be swapping the E6850 for a E6700 from a friend, if his motherboard can handle the 6850. Otherwise, I'll probably sell the E6850 and get an E6700.

 

I went to a friend (Eladisimo) to see if we can swap his E6700 for my E6850. Turns out his board also doesn't support the E6850, so that idea has reached a dead end. As it is, I'm trying to sell the cpu and get an E6700 or Q6600, probably the Q6600. Talked with someone today about a Q6600, and I'm waiting to see what price tag he can get on it. If I won't be able to sell the E6850, I'll probably build a server around it.

 

"It's alive! Alive I tell you!"

Finally some progress in the right direction with the mod:
I bought a Q6600 and installed it on the board. For a change, the board worked!. So I installed XP just in case, and I hope there will be a real modding update (and not just a software update) next weekend.

Q6600 cpu fresh out of the box, G0 stepping:

The main difference between this version and the older B3 version is the TDP. The G0 can generate up to 95W while the B3 is 105W. The difference is very important, especially in small case like mine.

Some more info here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_Core_2_microprocessors#Core_2_Quad

Bios shot:


Installing XP:

The CPU fan was "frozen" by the photograph, but is actually working.


Screen shot:


And another...


System properties in a normal way:


Plans for next weekend:
Expand the distance between the chassis boards, and install the PSU (finally!). As well, drop the front fan by a few mm so it will be located directly behind the front ventilation hole. If I'll still have time left, I might be able to plan the back ports box or do something else.

 

An idea like this has been one of the many in my head for a long time, so I'll definitely be keeping my eye on this one (mainly to steal your ideas if it ever comes to building one of my own ).

Looking very good so far, I'm looking forward to your updates!

 

@Khensu - Thank you, and I hope you will also learn from my mistakes, read this next post.

The distance to narrow down to:

I decided to narrow the bottom edges of the chassis metal plates, and also to cut a bit off the mother board holding standoffs. The screw in the picture needs to be cut down to the distance shown by the caliber.

Screw heads after the cutting:

Top screws cut, but not the bottom ones (in this picture) yet. I've also downsized the bottom edges of the metal plates but this is a 'before' picture.

PSU deconstruction:


Components mock up:

Space is an issue... p.s. that's a dead ide hd there

ATX 'hair cut':

Shortening the ATX wires.

Work in progress:

Joining the split wires back together

Solder joints 1:

Connecting these wires was a PITA. To create a nice soldering spot, I had to slide each wire into the other joint edge, then wrap it with another small piece of wire so it won't move while I'm soldering it.

Solder joints 2:

After the soldering. Then I just put some heat shrink on it and this wire joint is done.

Macro photography:

The last two pictures were taken with the help of this magnifying glass. The irony is, this magnifying glass was once used to inspect 35mm film negatives and slides...

Back together:

Finished connecting the wires.

Mock up again:

Well, the PSU and the CPU heat sink don't to go well together. I'll probably move the motherboard a few cm (to the right of the picture) to make some room for the PSU.

USB hub top and metal ring:


Metal ring in USB hub top:


Wire mesh memo paper holder:

Hmm, now what is this doing here?

Cut mesh for USB hub:

The mesh will go behind the metal ring in the hub top. I intended to paint the hub (olive drab) this weekend and then attach the ring and mesh. I opened the color can I bought (see first post of project) but it turned out to be dark green color, bummer. Need to get new paint.
p.s. why does it remind me of terminator 2?

I hope to do some work next weekend, but that is uncertain as of now.

 

/me doing stupid things = bad news?

Sorry for the lack of an update this last weekend, had no time to update but I did get a chance to do some work.

Current state of keyboard:

I still haven't got any decent camo color to paint stuff with so no progress done on the USB hub or mouse. I pulled the keys out of the keyboard to prep it for painting. Was surprisingly easy, all it took were some plastic tweezers to push 2 holding levers on each key and it was out. Note to self: need some bondo.

Motherboard stand(s):

I've thought about moving the MB, but there's no option to move the MB stands easily. See that big hole in the metal plate? I could find something to cover it but it will take a while to manufacture and I'm really not in the mood. There's a similar and worse issue with the top stands.

Heat sink and PSU:

Since I can't move the MB, I'll have to cut a piece off the PSU heat sink. I'm hoping the airflow from the rear fan will compensate for the decreased PSU heatsink. The area with the big X on it needs to go so the PSU can reside next to the CPU heatsink.

And here comes the bad news...

So I started cutting with the dremel, and forgot that there are electronic components attached to the heatsink... After some time cutting with the drememl I smell a funny smell, like burnt electronics. Yep, the voltage (not yet sure that's what they are) stabilizers of the PSU attached to the heatsink got too hot. I still don't know if they're totally fried. I need to reassemble the PSU to a working order and check it.

A shot from a different angle of the heatsink cut:


Moving on - This thursday is Israel's 60'th independence day! So I'm on holiday, hoping to get some work done. On the list:
1. Clean the psu from metal dust
2. Re-assemble PSU (needs some soldering to work again)
3. Plug it into the mains and hope it doesn't bring down my home's power grid...
4. Turn it on (green/black wire jumpering) - same worries as #3
5. Try to power up my old athlon (with another old psu) to see if it's still alive
6. Check my psu on the athlon
7. If the electronic components are fried, try replacing them with parts from other PSU's I have
8. Check again on the athlon

p.s.
I should get me one of these. It's a shame I still haven't bought a multimeter...

 

i sure hope you didn't fry that psu of yours...also if u did hope it dun knock out your house power...lol

 

@compmodder - Thanks, everything is ok.

The bad news are, my old athlon seems to be dead. The good news are the PSU is still alive so I carried on with the work on it.

The finished cut:

After a few long hours of working on this, I finally managed to cut off the part I wanted. That was 5 mm of aluminum... Damn. And also had fins all around making the cut harder. I managed to hit the transformer and a capacitor next to it with the dremel but it's just external scratches. The cut is still rough and needs sanding. The PSU could also use a good dust cleanup...

In the chassis:

Hmm, not a good angle for a picture, let's try again...

Better angle:


Close up shot:

Ok, now that's calling it close. The CPU fan frame is resting on that big yellow transformer you can see in the first picture. But I'm not worried since the frame is made of plastic and that transformer won't get hot enough to melt the plastic. The CPU fan itself spins freely so no need to move the PSU or the transformer. The wire sticking in the middle of the picture is juts excess heat shrink on the end of a cut wire, it's not in the way of anything.

A view from the other side:

The PSU is situated way down low and will actually touch the bottom of the case. This might cause a small problem in the near future but the issue can be resolved easily.

And yet from another angle:

The clearance is about 1-2 mm, but it's enough.

Now what is this doing here?

A small teaser shot for a part I haven't started working on... Let's see if someone can id this part.

I'll continue work on the project only next weekend, so no update soon.

 

I KNOW!!

its a.. sata... thing?


what do i win???