Hi, I have the H70 aswell (2x akasa apache fans in push-pull exhaust) in a silverstone FT02R-W (low fan speed always for the case fans) and the temps have never been the same since removing the Shin-etsu. I think temps have increased by about 5c maybe more, I also now have a GTX 580 which dumps its heat into the case which hasn't helped matters. But like your case mine is also very quiet. I'm very pleased with the noise or lack of it tho. That 920 sure is a golden boy, my 920 needs 1.20v at least (I have it set at 1.225v in bios) for complete stability @ 3.70ghz and my temps after 30 mins prime95 top out at 75c hottest core with the rest in the low 70's but this is with 25c ambient temp. The idle temps you have do seem a little high but mine aren't much better at high 30's to low 40s. Just so you know I have tried Titan Nano TIM and a cheap Akasa syringe from the local puter shop which is what is applied now. One thing I noticed is that if I apply the recommended amount of TIM with this H70 (thin layer spread out evenly all over the CPU) the temps are really bad. At one point I was getting 80c+ at stock speeds. So I decided to put lashings of paste on and the temps returned to normal (low 70s with a good OC). I've looked closely at the mounting mechanism and it all seems in order and the waterblock/pump clamps down tight when the screws are tightened. Hope this is useful info. Sorry for the long post, got a bit carried away typing.
One of ym worries was that I put too much AS5 on, but since remounting and putting less on, I'd say temps are 2c worse, interesting that. Well my cheapy Shin-etsu should arrive soon and we'll see. How tight do you do the sink, afew people have told me it's better to not tighten the screws all the way, i tend to do them until the cant be done with one hand without great difficulty anymore.
I got the best results with the H70 after trial and error this way: 1. You'll obviously realise that the H70 pump head hasn't got a highly polished finished. In fact, it's quite grainy. Firstly, apply a line of TIM on one side and use a scraper/card to pull the TIM across the contact surface a few times to fill in the gaps in the machined surface. 2. Then apply a pea/case screw head sized blob in the middle of the cpu. Push the H70 into its retaining ring and twist clockwise/anticlockwise a couple of times to aid spreading, before tightening down screws a few turns at a time in a clockwise or anticlockwise series. 3. Don't overtighten though. As soon as you feel the screwdriver threaten to lift out of the screw, that's enough tension for the H70. Hopefully, you'll see some good temp drops. The one factor that helped me get mine down other than using shin etsu was preparing the pump contact area with TIM first - but only to fill the gaps.. no more. Please be sure to let us know how you get on.
Could do, but then you might as well lap the CPU too; however that's probably too much bother for a couple of degrees with a premade water cooler. Time vs. effort vs. reward - unless you're a pro watercooling/overclocking demon, lapping isn't really worth the effort, not to mention the risks involved if you do go down that route.
As mentioned by sentinel don't over tighten too much as the plastic mounting plate behind the motherboard looks fairly weak and could possibly split. For the TIM I ended up putting a good layering on the CPU and the H70 contact surface for my best results. Thinking back to when I removed the shin-etsu there was a good amount pre-applied by corsair, it covered almost the whole contact surface and was fairly thick too.
I've added an extra front intake (3 drives bay covers out and some zip ties = amazing flying fan). And it dropped load temps by another 2-3C. So Prime temps are generally below 60 now, which is very good. Idle temps still high, I'll reseat when paste arrives.
Remember I said to you about the inside the case it makes a huge difference Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk
I'd like to put the whole thing outside the case, but the p180 reaer exaught is too close to the side panel and catches the back of it....there is potential to roof mount it, hmm.
Use spacers/rods to mount the H70 outside the case and away from the edge? Something similar to this?
The tubes arn't nearly long enough, I doubt they're even long enough to put it just outside the case on the h70, really annoying - and if you change them u void the warrenty :O
Ah yes, I spotted that in a review of the H70 - they have shortened the tubes since releasing the H50. What a bugger. There are posts in other forums showing people mounting the rad against the rear of the case (inside) with the second fan on the outside of the case. Is it possible on the P180? E.g. like this:
Mounting the rad inside as intake will not effect system temps that much, maybe only 1 ~ 2 degrees but will effect CPU temps more substantially. If you can do it, try it and see.
It shouldn't make a huge difference. Last night I change my fan config around with my Antec 300 and H50. Instead of the two 1450rpm Gentle Typhoons push/pulling air from inside the case and exhausting out the read (with the 140mm as an intake), I turned it around so that I have the GT's in push/pull sucking air into the case through the H50 with the 140mm roof fan as an exhaust. It has dropped my 4GHz CPU temp when gaming from 62C to 57C with an ambient of 24C.
Nope, the fan catches the back-edge of the side panel - however I could possible roof mount it, which I will consider. I'm awaiting the arrival of my new diamond tipped hole-saw, at whcih poitn I'll add an extra exaught in the top fo the case and then may try this. As above matey!
