Im speaking with a pc repair guy and he states that upgrading from a 32 bit to a 64 bit can be done, I was under the impression it couldn't be?
not a straight upgrade, back up your files (or have them backed up) and then you'd have to put them back on, and re-install any programmes you use! (I doubt the programs would work from 32 to 64...)
ok so the programes will work on 64 but just need reinstalled? and to clarify it can be done but files need to be backed up otherwise they'll be lost?
That is correct. Before you continue, I just want you have this right. Go in the BIOS, and with the help of your motherboard instruction manual, at about the last chapter or before last, or before before last (anyway it's about at the end... you see the BIOS screenshot on the manual), see where to go to find the item SATA Controller or SATA Controller Mode, If you want to go with values (as it's the only one that is not a number, and is usually not Enable/Disable), are: IDE, Compatibility, Legacy, AHCI, RAID. IDE/Compatibility/Legacy are the same.. so you'll have 1 of them. Every motherboard calls this mode differently. Then you have AHCI and RAID. You want to set SATA Controller mode from IDE (or Compatibility or Legacy, which ever it's called), to AHCI. AHCI provides you with the following benefits: -> eSATA support. If you have a eSATA plug on the back of your computer, you can use it. eSATA is like USB, or firewire, but it is only designed for storage devices such as HDD and SSD's. eSATA is really SATA inside your computer, the plug is made differently to make the wire hold better with movement. The advantage is that it provides you super fast transfer rates (the same as if your external HDD or SSD was inside your computer). -> It support hot-swappable feature. It means like USB device, you can pull/unplug them at any time your eSATA drive. -> Support for TRIM. Technology in Windows 7 and up, which promotes the longevity of SSD's, if you have one. -> Support for NCQ (Native Command Queue): New way for the HDD to get data: This boost performance greatly, when you HDD reads multiple files at the one after another, such as starting Windows, loading large programs with lots of files to load, and so on. So it's definitely worth a moment of your time to make sure that your SATA controller is set to AHCI. Even if you care about anything, the last item makes it worth it. You need to do this BEFORE YOU INSTALL WINDOWS. The good news, is that you do it once and for all. Anyway, back to our Windows installation: When you perform a Windows re-installation, you will come to this screen: You will notice 2 partitions: System Reserved, and your current system drive. These 2 partition are in the same hard drive (that is why you call them partitions). If you have other HDD's, they will appear as well, in the list. In your case, the Maxtor 80GB. You will be identify it, by seeing it's capacity being about 80GB, and it will have "Disk 1" at the begging instead of "Disk 0". In the computer world, stuff starts at 0. Why? Well because. "System reserved" partition is a special hidden partition of 100MB only. It has nothing more than Windows repair tools. This partition is created automatically. It is in the case that something goes wrong, and you don't have Windows disk in your hand.. or for some reason your optical drive stops working. Well you have Plan B to repair your system. As you are passing from 32-bit OS to the 64-bit OS (and you'll have to do the same later on, when you upgrade to future Windows, such as Windows 8, if you do), you need to allow Windows to make another system revered partition, as it needs to be 64-bit. Of course... we don't care about the 32-bit System Revered partition now, as Windows 32-bit will be gone. So this what you need to do: 1- Click on System Reserved, and click on the Delete button. 2- Click on Disk 0 Partition 1, and click on the Delete button. Normally, if you do a Windows re-installation, you just click on Format for this drive, you don't need to do the above (#1) step. And your done, ready to click on the next button. 3- Now you have deleted you old system restore partition, and deleted your current Windows partition. So now you have no Windows, no personal files, nothing... They are all gone. So now we want to install Windows 7 64-bit. To do so, click on New button, click OK to set it's size (max value already set). Then Windows will ask you about creating a system restore partition, click on Yes. Now, click on Next, and Windows will install. 25-30min later, Windows will be installed, and start it's first boot up.
wow that is extremely informative and can get my head around some of it, if you could put the process of the SATA bios thing in nooby bullet points, I would appreciate it thanks.
I have installed Windows 7 professional 64 bit but it still has program files x86 in the boot drive, does it need to be removed as I keep getting BLUE SCREEN CRASHS?
Update: After I performed an update it is giving me BSOD with SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION ERROR. If it helps I have norton antivirus installed also, can anyone help me? cheers
On x64 OS, the program files (x86) folder is where the 32bit applications are installed mainly by default - Do Not Delete It!! Do you have the error code for the bike screen?? Personally I would always do a clean Install if moving from 32 to 64bit - I've experienced a fair few headaches from trying in the past and just don't think it's worth the risk and time if things go a little wrong
I've done a very quick google on that error code. MS technet document suggests gfx driver could be at fault. Can I ask if there's a reason you went for upgrade rather then a clean install?
I think i did a clean install, I had 32" bit on then I did installed win 7 64 bit from the drive on bootup, I'm not sure if that's a clean install?? Whilst trying to uninstall norton symantech I got another error MEMORY_MANAGEMENT BSOD Then I went into safe mode and SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION occured again and restart I was thinking it is maybe something to do with my ram as they are two diff frequencies, but i think the higher one runs at 1333 as default which would be the same as the other ram stick HOW DO I GET THE ERROR CODE MAN?
My random guess would be you did a upgrade and it's trying to use the 32 bit driver and it's not liking it maybe
em probaly, how do i know if i did an upgrade and how exactly do i make a clean install man? ive also updated all gpu, mobo, monitor drivers EDIT: The more I read online, the more it seems like its a RAM problem with some people saying it may be RAM moduls? my ram is PNY 1x2gb 1333mhz and Mushkin 1x4gb 1600mhz are you guys able to see what the problem is via dump files?
If you can upload the dump somewhere I expect someone could take a look. Failing that, if the machine works enough to download and install something, take a look at http://www.resplendence.com/downloads and try WhoCrashed. I've used it a few times to get the file names and details of the thinking causing the crash. From then you can sometimes identify the driver, executable etc which caused the BSOD
Ok I changed my RAM back to normal i.e 2x2GB 1333mhz, so far running fine in normal desktop mode. I downloaded the whocrashed and got the following report based on prior BSOD episodes, can you shine anymore light on whats causing these BSOD crashes?
Thats a few different causes and errors there. Might be far simplier to start from scratch. First thing I would do it setup your RAM how you wish to use it once everything is setup working (i.e. set speeds correctly in BIOS etc). Then download a memtest app (memtest86+ etc) and give it a few good hours of testing just to be sure its stable. Then we'll see if we can clarify if you did a fresh or upgrade install. when you booted from the Win7 CD. When it gives you the option to install (big 'Install' button in middle of screen), the next screen ((Screen Shot Here) asks how you wish to install. Did you select the top option (which is upgrade installation) or the bottom one (which is for a clean install)?? **
Bottom option, it said it would erase all data etc I choose that one. Custom install I think it was called. If you could give a small walkthrough of the speed setting in BIOS, that would help, but I downloaded CPU-Z and apparently the max bandwidth on both is 667mhz I think, voltages appear to be the same too, does that help?
Which ram I got 3 sticks, the ones in now were bought new and working fine with 32bit, Just recently bought one off here 1x4gb 1600mhz but was 2nd hand? The 1x2gb and 1x4gb were working fine in 32bit win 7 but obv not able to be used in its entirity. I would just like to add that, when I had the mismatched RAM's installed I wasnt able to access CPU-Z information regarding the RAM, once I reverted back to same speeds 2x2gb, it was showing up fine.
